OIL THREAD...opinions and knowledge fact or fiction

Pig9r....

Pig9r:

In as much as I can ascertain, currently, Shell 15-40 Rotella T, 5-40 Rotella Synthetic and Delo 15-40 are all Caterpillar, Cummins, Vo-Mack certified for engines built "prior" to 2007.

The new EPA/FMVSS standards compliance applies to engines built after 6-2007. Initially, the compliance date was 01-01-2007 but the EPA relaxed that date because of the enormous cost associated with engine manufacturers becoming compliant and the associated engineering.

Basically what is happening is that for Class 6-7-8 diesel engines to meet or exceed the EPA/FMVSS 2007 standard, they must have particulate filters as well as catalytic converters in the exhaust stream (along with a whole bunch of intake modifications). Because the substrate in the cat's is similar to that of the Palladium substrate in a 4 stroke gasoline engine, the very additives in pre 2007 lube oils for commercial diesels will degrade the operating efficiency of the catalytic converter (and the particulate trap) on engines built after 2007 and operating on ULSD.

What is happening is that oil refiners are re-formulating lube oil that has the zinc and phosphorus eliminated and replaced with a friction modifier, mainly molybdenum disulfide (which is the same anti-chatter additive used in posi-traction rear ends).

These oils aren't readily available on the general market yet, besides, other than fleets, you won't see the new generation engines in widespread use for some time. Due to the cost of the emission related hardware and the decrease in fuel mileage, most buyers bought trucks with engines prior to 2007. All the major players, Freightliner, Vo-Mack, Peterbilt and Western Star were working 24/7 with a 6 month backlog. They are all planning to have massive layoff's this year. No one with any sense is going to buy a new engine with an additional 10K price tag and fuel mileage in the toilet. Remember, no truck manufacturer with the exception of Vo-Mack builds their own engines. Caterpillar, Cummins Diesel, NA, Mercedes Benz Detroit Diesel (DDEC) and Perkins Diesel, NA all build engines for heavy trucks.

Because the lube oils meeting the new EPA/FMVSS standard aren't readily available yet, it should be safe to buy off the shelf 15-40 Rotella, 5-40 Rotella Synthetic or Delo and I'm pretty certain that the new oil will have either the ingredients plainly listed or say "Compatible with the new standard or compatible in 2007 or later engines".

It would be folly to use a zinc-phosphorus additive oil in a post 2007 compliant diesel and run the risk of destroying $10 thousand bucks worth of related emission hardware and rendering the engine unusable (remember, these engines are drive-by-wire, completely computer controlled)(any major error codes generated by malfunction immediately degrades the power and sometimes shuts down the engine entirely).

Having said all that. I'd imagine (and check the jug too) that as long as the oil states that it CAN'T be used in 2007 or later emission compliant engines, it would be good to go. I always read the contents anyway. Some interesting things are put in oils, greases and your food.:D

The scary thing about the 2007 standards is that the next upgrade is 2010. That standard will require the exhaust gas emitting from the engine, be cleaner than the air coming into the air intake and that includes blowby vapor from the crankcase vent. I'd imagine the cost of that to be over-the-top, and of course, be passed right on to consumers like you in the form of increased freight costs. That's what is happening right now with diesel fuel stagnant at around $2.45 per gallon.....Trucking companies are passing the cost directly on to the consumers. That's another can of worms not at all related to this site.
 
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Nothing in the box yet. we just got snow last night for the dogsled. rather rural here deliveries a little slooooooo I'll keep lookin.. ;)
 
What is happening is that oil refiners are re-formulating lube oil that has the zinc and phosphorus eliminated and replaced with a friction modifier, mainly molybdenum disulfide (which is the same anti-chatter additive used in posi-traction rear ends).
The reason rear ends "chatter" is that the limited slip clutches began to "grab" and this friction REDUCER stops this from happening. Rocket III's run wet clutches and we've already seen that these additives cause slipping in the clutch pack. This is very difficult to rectify, it would require complete replacement of the clutch assembly and a complete engine flush and oil system flush, which would be almost impossible.

You can use whatever oils you wish, but I'm not going to take a chance that oils with molybdenum disulfide or any other friction modifier is in there or hasn't quite reached the shelves yet. These aren't diesel engines and they do make motorcycle oils without additives. This is a bullet you can easily dodge.

Just my two cents :D.
 
Tomo:

Bad day at work??
I never suggested using any oil with a friction modifier in it. That is death for a wet clutch pack whether in a bike or farm tractor. What I was saying is that when the oil for the new FMVSS 2007 engines hit the shelves, it will most likely be labeled as such simply because using the pre 2007 diesel oil in a post 2007 diesel truck will have the same degrading effect on the catalytic converter and particulate trap as would apply to a non commercial catalyst equipped automobile.

Now if you had a Ducati, you could use any oil in it, even add Slick50.:D

We'll discuss it on Saturday, bring your six shooter......:bch:

OOps, forgot. Next Wednesday.
 
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I'm not going to wade through all of that...so give me a real quick reply (20 words or less)... What kind of oil are you using in your Rocket and what else do you use that oil in?
 
Used Nulon for oil change

Hey Guys,

Did a silly thing the other day and changed out my oil with a 15W 50 synthetic which I now realise has friction modifiers. Noticed the clutch slip slightly for the first time the other day in fourth.

My question - is an immediate drain and replacement with 4T likely to solve the issue or have I caused a major problem by trying to save a few bucks?

Saw Tom's post about it being difficult to rectify - surely throwing the Mobil 4T back in will sufficiently dilute the additive as long as the clutch isn't damaged?

Cheers,

Jim
 
Hey Guys,

Did a silly thing the other day and changed out my oil with a 15W 50 synthetic which I now realise has friction modifiers. Noticed the clutch slip slightly for the first time the other day in fourth.

My question - is an immediate drain and replacement with 4T likely to solve the issue or have I caused a major problem by trying to save a few bucks?

Saw Tom's post about it being difficult to rectify - surely throwing the Mobil 4T back in will sufficiently dilute the additive as long as the clutch isn't damaged?

Cheers,

Jim
Dude, that sucks ... sorry to hear it. Welcome to the site anyway.
If it were a car I'd flush it out by filling it with kerosene and running it for 5-10 min, but since it does have those clutches to worry about, I just don't know how safe that is on the wear plates. Kerosene won't hurt the motor for a short time, but maybe someone here will know more about the clutch material. If it were me who had this problem, and my only option was to replace the clutches ... I'd try running kerosene through it first, change that out with fresh oil (cheaper regular bike oil) for 500 miles and then change it once more with Mobil 1 Racing 4T oil (Triumph stuff). If it still slipped after that, the clutch had to be replaced anyway so what the hell.
:( Hang in there, maybe someone else here has 1st hand experience with this.
 
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This is an area where I fully admit ignorance. Thus, I go by the manufacturer's specs/recommendations. I justify this with the argument I read earlier in the thread that reads "Why spend 15K on a machine and then take a chance on oil for the sake of saving a few bucks". That passes the common sense test to me. That said, I'm by no means implying that those of you that don't follow that school of thought are wrong. As stated, I'm in no position to be that presumptuous.

I posted this before (perhaps in this thread; didn't read back far enough to know for sure), but I have a buddy in Kentucky that FIRMLY believes synthetic oil is inferior to conventional oil and has bored my ears to tears with quotes from supposed studies that confirm his thinking. He rides Harleys and claims to have never had any issues, etc... Now, does mean anything? Not to me. While I don't necessarily subscribe to his thinking, I do believe you're fine running whatever you want, provided it is specifically for motorcycles. I believe this because even Harley (the company) is fine with the owner running conventional oil. If so, however, the change intervals are more frequent. That makes sense to me. Harley service intervals were 5K regardless of oil for the longest time and only recently (the last couple of years) did they finally acknowledge (via service bulletin) that it's acceptable to extend the service intervals to 7500 miles if you run Syn3 (their branded full synthetic).
 
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