I happily pay $20 for a genuine Triumph filter and will settle for either Emgo or HiFlo (at $5 less) if I can't get one. I wouldn't trust a reusable one and in any case I can't see the point in cleaning something when a disposable one is so cheap.
 
Be careful regarding some recent changes to filter designs

The design of several - K&N, Bosch, Purolator (amd maybe others) have change the profile of the threaded adapter





The new convex profile (on the right in both images) will NOT seal when used on the Triumphs.
The thread will become tight at end of its limit of travel before the seal makes proper contact.

They have changed the design but NOT the part numbers, so you need to physically inspect it to see what revision you might be buying.
So keep an eye out for that with your after-market replacements

I recently installed a new Purolator Pure One and I was fortunate it must have been older stock (was unaware of this issue until after I installed mine, which fortunately did not leak!)

I have not seen any news that the Mobil1 is following suit, but keep an eye out regardless.
 
@DEcosse I recently purchased the Purolator filter and I can confirm that they leak. It was deep sixed and replaced with the Mobil filter.
 
@DEcosse I recently purchased the Purolator filter and I can confirm that they leak. ....

That is the Purolator in the lower (yellow) pic - you can see the difference between older and later versions
I wasn't suggesting they might not, just that the one I recently installed must have been older stock - any new stock will certainly have the issue, as you discovered.
 
I happily pay $20 for a genuine Triumph filter and will settle for either Emgo or HiFlo (at $5 less) if I can't get one. I wouldn't trust a reusable one and in any case I can't see the point in cleaning something when a disposable one is so cheap.


the idea is and remain this : a reusable shows you IF YOU MAKE METAL!!!! by cleaning the filter with varsol and running a magnet you will find out if there is a problem brewing inside your motor and consequently you are now in a position to save mucho dinero if you get some preventive maintenance all radial engines on transport and fighter planes for decades used that technology and believe you me I have seen with my own eyes what can break inside a recip engine
 
The only thing I see negative about the re usable filter is in does not have as fine of micron separation as the synthetic one I use.
 
being in the transmission field since 1966 i have dealt with a lot of different kinds of filters i can see the advantages of the screen however the screen seems to do more damage as it lets the very small particles through and they in turn scratch the pumps and put scratches on the valves in the valve body, the particles also inbed in the bronz washers and start wearing the mating surface.
the ones that use screens usually have several magnets in the pans to catch the fine stuff.
one day i would like to drop the r3 bottom cover and epoxy about 3 hd magnets so they would collect the fine stuff.
i usually cut my filter open about every other oil change.
on the screen type maybe you could epoxy an hd magnet to the bottom of the outer housing.
to sum it up i prefer the regular filter.
 
it just dawned on me that i can epoxy the hd magnets on the bottom of the pan. my next project:) the magnets i use are about 1 13/16 long , 7/8 wide and 3/8 thick. you can put a strip of metal on each side and you will not be able to pull it off of a steel table.
 
Hi TURBO200R4,

Try these from Ace Hardware. They're neodymium and are a perfect size to put one on each of the 3 oil drain plugs. Over a short period of time the magnet will magnetize the drain bolts enough so that any ferrous particles will still adhere to the bolt when removed for an oil change. I've had them on my 2009 standard for 3 years and they don't fall off.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Mark Dunn
 
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