Oil change filter problem

With all due respect to the op , I would definately have changed the oil filter especially as it is the first service . Just in case there is any gun lurking around inside the new engine which could block the oil ways.
I would empty the oil again and change that filter and either renew the oil again or put the new drained oil back in , Just for peace of mind . After all the bike cost £20,000 a filter cost what £7 . Me personally I would have let the dealer do the full first service . No disrespect to the OP just what I would do .
Thanks for that respectful perspective.
Since I did not change filter for reason stated, I disagree. The oil looked brand new, and I doubt there was all kind of gunk in there but the filter just caught it after 550 miles, and now reached it's filtering capacity. In fact, after 5k miles I would think it very important to change based on oil appearance alone! My oil is always black after 5k. So yes changing it initially is best, but in my situation, I would bet anyone that I am not damaging my bike by waiting for 5k. I do love my bike. Thanks for the thoughts.
 
Old time heavy duty mechanics particularly gear guys, you know like transmission and differential mechanics will tell you for long life of transmissions and differentials the secrete is to change the break in oil at 1000 miles. That is for a new unit or a rebuild. It gets out the fine little chunks and bits that are worked loose and worn in. I have always followed this methodology. I believe it works.
I did.
 
Thanks for that respectful perspective.
Since I did not change filter for reason stated, I disagree. The oil looked brand new, and I doubt there was all kind of gunk in there but the filter just caught it after 550 miles, and now reached it's filtering capacity. In fact, after 5k miles I would think it very important to change based on oil appearance alone! My oil is always black after 5k. So yes changing it initially is best, but in my situation, I would bet anyone that I am not damaging my bike by waiting for 5k. I do love my bike. Thanks for the thoughts.

like the song says u can't please everyone just please yourself (or something like that)
i think that at 5k your oil will look very good. they usually do. :thumbsup:
 
So what oil is everyone using? Are you staying with the weight recommended by Triumph 15w50 or something else. Also what brand. I've always used Mobil 4T racing but it does not come in 15w50.
 
So what oil is everyone using? Are you staying with the weight recommended by Triumph 15w50 or something else. Also what brand. I've always used Mobil 4T racing but it does not come in 15w50.
I usually stick to the recommended weight and spec but as far as brand loyalty i have none. :)
I usually grab what's on sale at the moment, be it Motul, Castrol Motorex or whatever. I don't believe in any brand having magic ingredients.
 
So what oil is everyone using? Are you staying with the weight recommended by Triumph 15w50 or something else. Also what brand. I've always used Mobil 4T racing but it does not come in 15w50.
I used 20/50 weight. AZ is pretty hot so I would think start up a little heavier not a problem. Depends on location I would think.
 
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I'm curious if anyone has tried one of these reusable filters? Stainless steel woven mesh that filters to 35 microns

PC Racing PCS1 Flo Stainless Steel Reusable Oil Filter



 
just my opinion
i would not use one they r a pain in the ass to clean all the time much easier if u r worried about what is in there just cut open the filter.
when i was racing it was nice to check what was in the filter so i am not knocking the the filter.
 
This is probably obvious to most, but on my 600 mile oil change I did not change oil filter. Manual said remove 2 front screws, tilt cowl forward to get to filter. I took out screws, removed plastic around the screen or air filter. Then removed the screen that snaps in place. It was not obvious at this point how to remove filter so buttoned back up. Where did I go wrong besides starting this!
Also manual did not say whether to check dip stick sitting on bike or on the stand. I sat on it and now wonder if this is correct and maybe overfilled. If I did, I could remove oil filter once I know what went wrong and get some oil out.
Btw that oil looked really clean, guess cause new besides few miles.
My aggrevation started at the beginning when the oil pan I used with the cap on the side for convenient pouring leaked! Cap just would not seal so I was wiping up oil as I went.
Also not easy when final drive drain it was hard to have the pan close enough to plug cause tire was in the way. Whinning I know.
Thanks in advance!
 
This is one of the few engines that recommend the engine be cold, on side stand, and run for only 90 seconds or so
and then shut off. Wait couple minutes for draindown and check oil then.. When idling on the side stand for the 90 seconds
dont blip the throttle, just let it idle.
 
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