My Carpenter 240 build

If your curious what the shim under bucket looks like.....everything was in place and clean. Also, I can see some of the value of a shim under, but you still run a risk of spitting a shim if you get valve float. Only this way the shim is trapped by the bucket. I assumed (incorrectly) that the shim had some type of retension?) Also, if anyone needs stock shims, springs, buckets send me a pm. Just pay postage. Those shims are pricey!
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Is yours the single spring setup?

It was dual coils back in 2012 doing mine, by 16 they had changed to single spring. Curious to know if it's still that way
 
Interesting comments about torque angle measurement devices used to calculate bolt stretch versus torque wrenches. Torque wrenches, whether dial, digital, or the older beam and needle type, measure the amount of twist in the shaft of the wrench. A given material of a given diameter and length will twist a uniform amount when stressed by the same load. Thus by definition, they are twist angle measurement devices (they just convert twist to a torque value.) The torque is transmitted to the bolt head so it, too, twists.

If the application is critical, measure bolt stretch. Can't get at the back side; use studs and nuts. A stud properly torqued in place will stretch in one direction when a nut is tightened upon it. It will not turn in first and then stretch. So, how high was the stud projecting when you started; how high is it when tightened? The difference is fastener stretch, unless the gasket is compressible.

Once installed the operation loads on the bolt should never get close to the yield limit as cyclical loading near the yield strength will gradually fatigue the fastener. Thus torqueing is meant to stress the fastener so that the installation stress is higher than the external loading stresses it will ever see in normal use. This way the load is not cyclical. The one caveat is that materials different than the fastener expand with temperature changes to lessor or greater amounts. Therefore temperature variations do change the stress on installed fasteners.
 
Interesting comments about torque angle measurement devices used to calculate bolt stretch versus torque wrenches. Torque wrenches, whether dial, digital, or the older beam and needle type, measure the amount of twist in the shaft of the wrench. A given material of a given diameter and length will twist a uniform amount when stressed by the same load. Thus by definition, they are twist angle measurement devices (they just convert twist to a torque value.) The torque is transmitted to the bolt head so it, too, twists.

If the application is critical, measure bolt stretch. Can't get at the back side; use studs and nuts. A stud properly torqued in place will stretch in one direction when a nut is tightened upon it. It will not turn in first and then stretch. So, how high was the stud projecting when you started; how high is it when tightened? The difference is fastener stretch, unless the gasket is compressible.

Once installed the operation loads on the bolt should never get close to the yield limit as cyclical loading near the yield strength will gradually fatigue the fastener. Thus torqueing is meant to stress the fastener so that the installation stress is higher than the external loading stresses it will ever see in normal use. This way the load is not cyclical. The one caveat is that materials different than the fastener expand with temperature changes to lessor or greater amounts. Therefore temperature variations do change the stress on installed fasteners.
Thats quite a write up! Ive only done that on one application. A first stage fan on a Pratt &Whitney JT-8 fan. With a special fixture that had an indicator for each stud. Obviously a critical application!
 
A little more progress. Cams are in and timed, torqued down to 170 in lbs (Carpenter recommended an increase torque of 150-177 in lbs for the cam sproket bolts).
A note for anyone doing this, there is NOT enough room to measure cam lift (being perpendicular to the bucket), without an adapter of sorts.

I was able to get the results consistent within .005. And I feel most of the error is due to the measurements not perpendicular to the buckets.
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The photo above is with the intake cam lobe straight up, 0 on the indicator at TDC is what I was looking for.

The colored straws are just a visual aid to make sure I didn't make an expensive mistake!
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The photo above is of the exhaust cam. As you can see, this was taken at TDC and the reading should be 0.

Close enough for me. Now I just need more time, and better weather!
 
Initial start up tomorrow. Just need to empty and install the fuel tank, power commander and pull the trigger. And a couple odds and ends like a strap for those silo sized air filters, and something for the coolant overflow. Fingers crossed

Ah yes, the butterflies in the stomach will be the size of condors while the thumb hovers over the go button. :D

Can't wait to hear the first ride report!:thumbsup:
 
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