Moving to a Standalone ECU

[Claviger]

I've been playing with the software for the Haltec...

Phenomenal, nothing but joy for a tuning nerd.

Every setting one could ever want, no matter how esoteric or weird, is there.....and then some.

In about 2 hours I've written the base file for an R3, including all kinds of temperature and conditional offsets and safeguards to keep the motor safe, it's phenomenally easy compared to some of the other software I've used.

 

[barbagris]

The technical challenge with all the computerized stuff is what limits many people.

And tbh for many of us there would be NO WAY to get it road legal.

I had a mail from a mate last week who's 1981 Guzzi LeMans II failed because he had K&N type"Sports Air filters" fitted. The fact that the LeMans came ExFactory with NO FILTER AT ALL was not important - this was a performance enhancement mod. It's all just about getting you to pay to have it written into the papers.

 

[barbagris]

Phenomenal, nothing but joy for a tuning nerd.

I can see somebody having to buy fur coats or some jewellery soon.

 

[Mittzy]

Also could program different "modes" maybe - Sport - Wet- Commute ---etc

 

[warp9.9]

On the .com site, there was a fella that had fitted a motec(??) ecu. I don’t recall his avatar, but it was several years ago. Stumbled upon it while researching my starting woes. Maybe someone to ping for pitfalls and advice if he is still active.

That was Bones God Bless His Soul !! he is no longer with us but some feller in Oz did end up purchasing his R3. Pretty Pricey set up .

 

[barbagris]

Also could program different "modes" maybe - Sport - Wet- Commute ---etc

I foresee - BASIC GEEKY SCIENCE NERD, BALLS-OUT, BRAIN-REMOVED, and "I STOOD NEXT TO AN EXPLODING SHELL ONCE AND SURVIVED" modes.

 

[Claviger]

Also could program different "modes" maybe - Sport - Wet- Commute ---etc

Fun fact about aftermarket ECUs, most at least.

You can create your own “device” in the software and use it to trigger things.

So, adding power modes is as simple as installing a multi position switch/knob, using it as an input and establishing different limits or trims based on the switch location. You could cut back timing, lean or enrich, lower RPM limits, remove decel fuel cut, whatever based on the switch position.

Even more interesting, you could use a humidity sensor to detect rain and as it starts to rain have the ECU automatically trim power and lower rpm limits. You could also have it increase how aggressive traction control is etc.

 

[barbagris]

Fun fact about aftermarket ECUs, most at least.

OK - That's confirmed it. Only a real techno-nerd can use "fun fact" and "ECU" in the same sentence. So - Here is a fun fact about LEDs............................................

 

[Tripps]

I don't know why I'm following this thread, back in the day, my boss had to force me to usr a calculator when they came out. I knew a pencil and paper produced an accurate figure, I didn't trust them, how do I know what's going on in that little box, if the answer was wrong, how would you know? He used to just shake his head and walk away.

 

[Claviger]

I’ve run into the first mechanical challenge.

Our crank is a 120 crank and ignition fires every 240 crank degrees so...

With only the crank signal, the only option is multi point injection, meaning it injects “X” number of times (X set by user), over a single 720 cycle.

Ignition can be setup to fire every 120, in this way it would fire at strange event timing throughout the cycle.

My concern is that one of those sparks will be going off part way through the compression cycle and there may be enough fuel (which is squirting throughout the cycle) to ignite when it shouldn’t.

Clearly that’s not a desirable scenario so....

Adding a single magnet to a CAM gear and adding a Hall effect sensor to the valve conver (front flat area), will allow the ECU to know where TDC following compression stroke is for #1 cylinder. From there the ECU works out the other ignition events for #2 and #3. As a result I can now run full sequential injection and ignition.

Thankfully, this isn’t a deal breaker, mounting the Hall sensor is easy and a non-issue. On the other hand, mounting the magnet on the intake cam gear, may be an issue.

I’m thinking this part through.

My first idea is a hole in the cam gear, 50 degrees before TDC (as installed, 50 specified as optimal by Haltech). Countersink the hole on the cam side of the cam gear. Use a small countersunk titanium bolt (M4 or M5) and a small magnet bonded to a locknut which goes on the non cam side of the gear, obviously red locktite here and significant torque.

Install a matching Ti countersunk bolt and nut 180 opposite the magnet to keep the gear in balance.

Measure, drill, and tap a hole in the valve conver that aligns with the radius of rotation of the magnet for the Hall sensor. Rotate motor so the magnet is aligned just below the tip of the Hall sensor. Screw in hall sensor until it “just” touches the magnet, back it off 1mm. Install lock nut with red locktite on Hall sensor and peen into place.

Bobs yer uncle, working cam sensor.

Thoughts?