I haven't read back through this entire thread, and I'm certainly no electrical guru, but, have you considered just removing all the changes to electrical system from last in to first in and see if and when the problem resolves itself?
melted 30 amp fuse
- Thread starter rmdrake
- Start date
rmdrake
.060 Over
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2008
- Messages
- 127
Yes i have thought about bringing back to original state and i could do it but it would cost me a new wiring harnes which i can find at pinnwall cycle parts for a reasonable price , the problem is getting to all the little plugs getting them apart and plugging in the new one sounds easy , but to save this bike from a major meltdown i just might , im sure i could get it done in a week or so
Doesn't sound the least bit easy to me. I hate electrical issues. Good luck.
Gothlander
321 GONE
The only thing I can see that will heat the fuse is the regulator/rectifier, it is the only thing that uses fuse 11 without another fuse in the line.
Gothlander
321 GONE
There are some tests in the manual.
Gothlander
321 GONE
Also test the alternator, check all wires connected to the regulator and alternator, check the fuse holder has good contact with the fuse because if it doesn't it will create high resistance and get hot. Chances are it is a bad contact somewhere in that area.
Gothlander
321 GONE
Just another thought, check all the relays you connected to make sure you haven't used a trigger wire as a main power feed. This can cause high continuous load at just on or below the fuse blow level.
Pulled all the info from the thread to see it all at once. Here is what I've got:
Symptoms:
#11 fuse is still getting hot
brown wires going to the right side of fuse box getting hot
headlights off everything is good
gets warm with low beam
gets hot with high beam
with the engine off but powered up all lights - stock fuse panel is cool to the touch
motor running all lights on pulling 23 amps,
motor running all lights off pulling 18 amps
pulled fuses 1 3 and 4 - no change
Connected:
headlight power connected to battery
Headlight relay on/off power from high/lo switch
pc8 connected to battery
running lights connected to pc8
3 relay setup keyless ignition on/off relay power to pc8
Statements:
The lights being on or off should not have that much draw difference through the OEM fuse box. The power for the lights is coming directly from your battery. Only the on/off power for the headlight relays is coming through the OEM fuse box via the Hi/Lo switch and that should be very minimal unless a relay is shorting out or it is on the wrong post of the relay and supplying power to run the headlights.
Questions/Actions:
1. What kind of draw are you getting on the #2 fuse? (motor off lights on, motor on lights off, motor on lights on Hi/Lo)
1a. How are your green, blue w/ yellow, & red w/ orange wires on the oem fuse box? hot, high current, anything?
2. What kind of draw are you getting on the #9 fuse? (motor off lights on, motor on lights off, motor on lights on Hi/Lo)
Check the resistance & draw through your starter relay from the Blue w/ yellow to blue.
2a. Have you tried swapping the two relays on your EB headlight kit? swap with each other and see if you get the same results for Hi/Lo test.
Symptoms:
#11 fuse is still getting hot
brown wires going to the right side of fuse box getting hot
headlights off everything is good
gets warm with low beam
gets hot with high beam
with the engine off but powered up all lights - stock fuse panel is cool to the touch
motor running all lights on pulling 23 amps,
motor running all lights off pulling 18 amps
pulled fuses 1 3 and 4 - no change
Connected:
headlight power connected to battery
Headlight relay on/off power from high/lo switch
pc8 connected to battery
running lights connected to pc8
3 relay setup keyless ignition on/off relay power to pc8
Statements:
The lights being on or off should not have that much draw difference through the OEM fuse box. The power for the lights is coming directly from your battery. Only the on/off power for the headlight relays is coming through the OEM fuse box via the Hi/Lo switch and that should be very minimal unless a relay is shorting out or it is on the wrong post of the relay and supplying power to run the headlights.
Questions/Actions:
1. What kind of draw are you getting on the #2 fuse? (motor off lights on, motor on lights off, motor on lights on Hi/Lo)
1a. How are your green, blue w/ yellow, & red w/ orange wires on the oem fuse box? hot, high current, anything?
2. What kind of draw are you getting on the #9 fuse? (motor off lights on, motor on lights off, motor on lights on Hi/Lo)
Check the resistance & draw through your starter relay from the Blue w/ yellow to blue.
2a. Have you tried swapping the two relays on your EB headlight kit? swap with each other and see if you get the same results for Hi/Lo test.
Similar threads
