TxRIIIRider
Living Legend
You got instructions? I actually had to figure out that the bolt went in the hole all on my own!.. Oh wait.. that's starting to sound like some of the sheep talk..
Pig9r
Living Legend
I was feeling a little dangerous today so I swapped caps from one side to the other.
Sidecar Flip
Living Legend
The skinny..........
The reason why I prefer the caps to remain with the bodies is that the caps and bodies are machined as one. Then the cap is parted from the body, faced and de-burred. Meanwhile, the bodies are slotted and de-burred. Then the caps are re-mated to the bodies with the 18-8 socket caps and the whole assembly is finished as a unit again. Because of the tolerances involved between the cap and body, it is better to keep the respective caps with the respective bodies. I'm not saying they won't interchange because they will. The reason I prefer them to remain with their original body is that I mate each one and check the concentricity. To interchange them might allow the cap to become slightly offset on the body itself simply because of the tolerances involved in the indexing operation. In regard to the indexing operation, the holes are exactly 180 degrees +- 3 seconds apart. That also causes the cap to align properly. If you don't seat the cap , that is cock the cap slightly when you screw it down, it will bind. That's due to the tight tolerance between the cap and the and the threaded caps screws that secure it. Also, there is also only 0.001" of clearance between the major diameter of the socket set screw thread and the clearance hole in the bottom of the cap below the countersink. That clearance is tight purposely. That tight clearance causes the cap to symmetrically aligned with the body when it's tightened down with the 18-8 socket caps.
That's why I prefer the caps to stay with their respective bodies. I could have made the through clearances sloppy enough to allow any cap to fit any body where the end user (you) would align the caps manually, but that's not how I do things. I want each and every FlipMeister Billet Stainless Brake Line Clamp that leaves here fitting and looking good enough to mount on my R3 and be proud of.
That should explain why I state specifically to keep the respective caps and bodies together. It just makes assembly easier and allows you to have a perfect looking brake line clamp.
The reason why I prefer the caps to remain with the bodies is that the caps and bodies are machined as one. Then the cap is parted from the body, faced and de-burred. Meanwhile, the bodies are slotted and de-burred. Then the caps are re-mated to the bodies with the 18-8 socket caps and the whole assembly is finished as a unit again. Because of the tolerances involved between the cap and body, it is better to keep the respective caps with the respective bodies. I'm not saying they won't interchange because they will. The reason I prefer them to remain with their original body is that I mate each one and check the concentricity. To interchange them might allow the cap to become slightly offset on the body itself simply because of the tolerances involved in the indexing operation. In regard to the indexing operation, the holes are exactly 180 degrees +- 3 seconds apart. That also causes the cap to align properly. If you don't seat the cap , that is cock the cap slightly when you screw it down, it will bind. That's due to the tight tolerance between the cap and the and the threaded caps screws that secure it. Also, there is also only 0.001" of clearance between the major diameter of the socket set screw thread and the clearance hole in the bottom of the cap below the countersink. That clearance is tight purposely. That tight clearance causes the cap to symmetrically aligned with the body when it's tightened down with the 18-8 socket caps.
That's why I prefer the caps to stay with their respective bodies. I could have made the through clearances sloppy enough to allow any cap to fit any body where the end user (you) would align the caps manually, but that's not how I do things. I want each and every FlipMeister Billet Stainless Brake Line Clamp that leaves here fitting and looking good enough to mount on my R3 and be proud of.
That should explain why I state specifically to keep the respective caps and bodies together. It just makes assembly easier and allows you to have a perfect looking brake line clamp.
Last edited:
Pig9r
Living Legend
Flip I am going to print off your post and add it as an addendum to the instruction manual that came with the clamps.
Sidecar Flip
Living Legend
The offer is still open and will always be open for forum members living in the Continental United States that if you are a registered member of R3Owners.net you can purchase a set (2) of the FlipMeister Billet Stainless Brake Line Clamps for $35.00 USD. Shipping to the Continental United States will be a flat rate $3.80 USD for a total of $38.80 USD. I accept personal checks, cashiers checks, money orders and Pay-Pal.
Forum members living in Canada or South America can also purchase the clamps for $35.00 USD, however, the shipping cost will be based on geographical location.
Any forum member living outside the Continental United States or Canada or South America can purchase their FlipMeister Clamps directly from Jamie Esperet who is a registered member on this forum. Jamie resides in Geneva, Switzerland and handles all sales for the countries other than the ones I've mentioned specifically.
Forum members living in Canada or South America can also purchase the clamps for $35.00 USD, however, the shipping cost will be based on geographical location.
Any forum member living outside the Continental United States or Canada or South America can purchase their FlipMeister Clamps directly from Jamie Esperet who is a registered member on this forum. Jamie resides in Geneva, Switzerland and handles all sales for the countries other than the ones I've mentioned specifically.
Rocket science..Must be the way they make output shaft bearings..
Jamie
Living Legend
.
Sidecar Flip
Living Legend
I suspect, like any mass produced item, the output shaft has a pretty liberal manufacturing tolerance and the intrinsic parts are probably bidded on a lowest bid gets the business philosophy rather than a philosophy of quality and longevity.
I asked Mark to ascertain, if he can, the catalog number and serial number of the bearing. I can directly cross the bearing with the SKF manual and get all the pertinent data.
I don't like hearing the '07 bikes suffer from the output shaft bearing problem too. I was under the understanding that Triumph had addressed the problem, made the necessary supplier adjustments and we weren't going to hear about it anymore. That don't seem to be the case.
travelguy
Turbocharged
flip, you should post up this on the other sites as well.
sam
sam
