Help! Poor running and I want to go to Sturgis

Okay thanks I am familiar with the 12 min tune. Also I did synchronize my throttle bodies they are within 10(hg?) Of each other. I did not lube in the rubber boots. Now the big problem I don't know how to do an full ISCV reset. Just the tune ECU test you mentioned earlier. As for that main idle stop should it be adjusted just below the ISCV controlled idle? You are saving me a ton of time thanks!
If you ever make it to Utah I hope you let me know.
 
Tune ecu will perform the ISCV reset. It is my belief that that is not a idle adjustment screw. It is a throttle close position. Its right in the middle of the spring loaded area. With out it or adjusted to far in either direct removes the are the stepper motor operates in. Ask yourself how does the idle change with a stepper motor yet the hand throttle doesn't rotate? I believe there is a how to do the ISCV reset in the tune ecu area. I know I've wrote it out a few times someone like @Joesmoe probably put a sticky on it.
 

ISCV and TPS reset?

So, it has been down this long and is apart. I am doing the throttle bodies tonight. I would also like to do the ISCV and TPS checks on it at this time. There are tons of threads on how to sort of do that but not a real clear winner that does it step by step. I will be using Tune ECU on a laptop...
www.r3owners.net
 
So an update I really cleaned and lubed everything well. Did the ISCV full reset and 12 min tune. It will run good for a bit but I still get stumbling in curtain conditions. If I Rev right threw that area everything is fine but if I let linger it's bad. I'm going to lift the table an check everything ready well. Also I will reload my tune. It's manageable now so far anyway.
 
Okay so new update I apologise for not getting you guys the best information. In the last tune modification, I changed the fan to turn on at 100c, instead of 94c. Not realizing it would be that sensitive. I couldn't imagine it being the problem, at that time. But as I thought through the timeline of events it made sense. After I loaded the original tune from 2 wheel Dyno works, it seem to have solved the issue. It felt just like a clogged lowspeed circuit in a carburetor. So I imagine the extra heat offset the mixture to the point it couldn't be managed in the open loop fuel injection. I will know more on my ride to work. I really can't thank you guys enough.
 
Found the problem. But along the way, I have the honey Badger running at it's best now. The front number 1 plug wire came loose. I must have pushed on those 10 times but this wire was stubborn! Lesson learned lol. Thanks for all your help again guys.
 
Okay new update sadly the bike did great all the way to Denver. When I went to leave Denver for Sturgis it acted up again. I have to hold idle now just to keep it running. I have done an ISCV rest a few times now here I Sturgis. It seams to get weird when it's hot. Cruising "seems" okay just idle. So I have a 2012 and tried disconnecting the stepper mechanically. Unfortunately my bike can't work that way it runs from idle to 2700rpm when it wants. After the ISCV reset it will run good for about 6min then I can't make it through a full 12 min tune. I did notice that the o2 sensor has no reading. As in no voltage. I am assuming it is shut off, but I'm open to suggestions. Wish me luck.
 
If it's only acting up when it's hot, I'd check the coils. Sometimes it's a hairline crack that's hard to see.
 
Last edited:
Steel said:
If it's only acting u[p when it's hot, I'd check the coils. Sometimes it's a hairline crack that's hard to see.
Click to expand...
Yeah the problem is it's always hot lol. The coils looked pretty good this morning. It will run good a few stops and the it will try and die. I can smell it's rich/unburt fuel.
 
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