Help please - motor knocking sound in new-to-me '09 R3T

With that said, once the tensioner was off I got the slug out and noticed that 2 slugs came out. The one i took out and evidently the previous owner put one in there, unless there is one in there from stock....

Sounds like you need to get in there and either replace the chain and or guides anyhow... only room for 1 slug.

Sorry mate, I had to get in quick and say something before you reinstalled the tensioner and turned the motor...
 
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Not true unless you have turned the engine.
OK... but not in my experience, soon as the tension on the chain is released the cams turn under pressure from the valve springs... I have done this more than once.......
 
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You have more experience than me. Was that on R3 engines and are all engines prone to the the valve springs moving cams? I imagine some cam / valve gear designs would prevent it occurring.

I was just quoting @warp9.9 and others.

Note when you remove the center nut DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER
Until the center nut is re installed and torqued.

No bud you just remove the center nut. Like in the pictures above, only those pictures show the tensioner out of the bike because I must have five or so of them and I was too lazy to go out to one of my bikes -which have non-OEM stuff anyway.

With the bike not running, remove the center nut on the auto tensioner. Measure drop; install spacer if needed. Install center nut. Torque. Then ride :) 10 minutes if you have to make the spacer. If you already have the spacer made just under 60 seconds and you're done and riding. Just remember never turn the engine over with the center nut removed!!!!!!
 
I was just quoting @warp9.9 and others.

They are correct, if you only remove the Center Nut...

Not thinking, I took the (2) 8mm bolts out holding the tensioner on.

...as said he has pulled the tensioner.

You have more experience than me. Was that on R3 engines and are all engines prone to the the valve springs moving cams? I imagine some cam / valve gear designs would prevent it occurring.

Yes, I have done this several times on R3 engines to change out valve shims... you may well be able to do this on other engines.
 
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@warp9.9 for confirmation but it may suggest you need a new spring. @Turk checked his and found the spring was too short BUT ALSO the parts of the tensioner itself had worn and no longer held oil as the tolerances had increased allowing it all to drain out of the tensioner unit. We noticed that my bike 's less worn one retained a lot of oil when removed from the bike and his did not.

I believe as long as you DO NOT turn the engine over before refitting it should be fine. If you turn the engine even slightly the cam chain may slip on the cam sprockets and cause major damage when bike started.

There are a few cheap used units from wreckers on eBay with supposedly low mileage history and may be way to go or get an APE or @Neville Lush manual adjustment version for less than original replacement cost.

Neville sent me one a few weeks ago for Au$120 + postage.
Neville Lush Racing - Home

tensioner.jpg

+ had my cam chain guides eaten and was about to grenade the engine lol

I would change the Chain, guides, crank sprocket, upgrade to adjustable cam sprockets + manual cam chain tensioner.

Once the stock tensioner is busted the guides are on their way out anyways
 
Ok sorry ove neen out of pocket and cell service at times 2300 mile mountain road riding :
Anyway to be brief since I spent 9 hours in the saddle today spring length means nothing. Your measurements on the drop of the plunger 18 mm means ypu are do for the spacer. Take a torch and look closley to make sure one had not been instslled alreeady. You can see about 1/4 incj of the drill point in the bpttom of the plunger. Wjich means it was not fully flat bottomed drilled. If it jas a spaver and you add a evtra one you will not be able to tigjten the center nut without breaking something . A rod pr pencil with some stiff grease or beeswax on the end will stick to the spacer to retrieve it. Easier then I a magnet by far. Of course if your as big as steele you can turn the bike over on its side tensioner facing down and whack it like your burping a baby :)
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I thought my bike was making a bit more noise lately. Nothing serious but...more.
Thank you @Jeremy for asking this question. And thank you @warp9.9 for bringing this to light.

Checked mine and I'm at 19MM. There's still a good amount of tension on the spring but needs the slug.
So I'm 3MM past the renew point and after adding the slug will have six MM of adjustment left before needing to replace guides, chain ect. (Correct?)
At 33k miles and 3MM past; I hope I don't keep that amount of wear up. :(


@warp9.9
I'm pretty sure I've got a handle on how everything is supposed to go together & function. But, clarity is a good thing, so if you would; please tell me if I'm right or have something out of place.
Using your pic below.
The slug is going drop into the hole in the plunger (past the interior measured surface) and the spring goes into the hole too, resting on the slug.
To ensure there isn't already a slug installed you need to look for the tooling mark at the depth of the plunger. Seen only partially (the half moon) in the pic below?


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Thanks to everyone for all the info! This forum is GREAT!

Scott
 
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