Help 2008 r3 touring not starting

Thanks Turbo I don't have nor did I have plastic/rubber caps but all the fittings have a vacuum line. I know there's 2 vacuum hoses going up there from the evaporator, it just doesn't show the map sensor in the drawing in the manual and I think I have those lines switched, like I said the #3 throttle body has 3 vacuum fittings, I'll check the coils, I guess just key on in neutral with clutch lever pulled in should give me battery voltage at the coil right? And I have both scanners so I'll try the obd2 scanner instead of tune ecu cause it much easier to get together. I just thought there's a different light than the check engine that comes on for a stored code and didn't think it would read the ecu without it running. But I'll try that first, thanks again and for getting back to me so quickly.
 
There's always U-Haul if it's that dire. When you plug your TuneECU in have you tried running the various tests in 'tests and adjustments'? And just to confirm you have no trouble codes showing? The MIL light might not be on but it's free to check.
 
we have helped a lot of people
and after 2 or 3 pages i have to get hard nosed about the situation
the one working on the bike is not doing the test that we want him to do,
for example they say fuses are good but when i insist to hook the 12 volt test light clamp to negative and the probe to each side of the fuse then it is wow i just found the problem.
i have found that you either do the tests or you find a mechanic and hope that that he will do the tests and not just let it set for three weeks and charge you $600 for inspection.
 
Ty atom I'm going to get to that just with work I haven't had time to look, it's only. My. Long distance vehicle, I get around town on a scooter, but ty all for the help I really do appreciate anything to get the job done quickly this forum i find is awesome, because of people like you and turbo and I could go on with others that have helped me along the way, I've just been a rocketeering for about 4 years and been in ty his forum, and finding it very informative, I'm working in a parking lot outside my unit with no cover or lift and limited tools right now, but I think I have enough to get by. But
 
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Ty turbo I'm going to get to that just with work I haven't had time to look, it's only. My. Long distance vehicle, I get around town on a scooter, but ty all for the help I really do appreciate anything to get the job done quickly this forum i find is awesome, because of people like you all, I've just been a racketeering for about 4 years and been in ty his forum, and finding it very informative, I'm working in a parking lot outside my unit with no cover or lift and limited tools right now, but I think I have enough to get by. But ty for the help you've given me
 
Hey, been there too (no money, time, tools). Report back when you have additional info on what the bike is or is not doing. We'll take it from there.
 
Ugh I just wrote a whole reply and lost it, well here it goes again. I have voltage at the coil, and getting numerous codes 9 total please see attached, i looked them all up from ecu problem, throttle position sensor, map sensor, immobilizer (which I don't know if it has one), injectors, and crank position sensor, I wanted to know if I should reset the codes and see what comes back? Plus I'm going to buy a plug and see if it has spark, instead of taking 1 out. And probably get some starting fluid to see if it fires , Thank You all for the help. Bill backyard mechanic by necessity
 

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It won't hurt anything to clear the codes. If your test plug shows spark then the likely candidates are fuel pump to injector, or injector to combustion chamber.
 
i always write down the codes b4 clearing. good to clear to see what comes back.
if you turned on the key while you had some stuff unhooked then it will set a lot of codes.
take a 12 volt test light and check all the fuses on both sides of the fuse. clean the grounds also there is a ground connection (terminals) about 6 inches from the neg batt post that can get corroded.
if not receiving crank signal then it will not start.
may have corrosion at ecu.
 
Update sprayed some starting fluid in the throttle body's and it fired a couple kicks, didn't want to add a lot of it and wash the cylinders. So I know it has spark, charging the battery now as it ran down, going to clear the codes, I originally tried to start it and found out the dashboard connection wasn't totally pushed in, so maybe that set off all the codes, I'll keep you posted and yes if that doesn't work I'll check ecu, batt. Frame ground, and connections at dash. Thank You guys for getting back to me so fast, this forum is great, glad to have you all
 
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