Clutch safety switch

[Mittzy]

Yeah, @HansO and I - well just HansO really had to refit the clutch switch you gave me @Mittzy.

The previous owner of my Roadster had cut the wires at the switch, removed a length and soldered the wires together in the loom as if the switch was always engaged. HansO managed to wire up the pre-used 2nd or 3rd version @DEcosse keyless ignition I acquired from the UK with some difficulties had with the replacement clutch switch. Probably due to my exessive use of a contact cleaner with lubricant followed by syringes of metho, and eventually we left the clutch switch wired in but not mounted in the lever housing as it appeared erratic in remaining or fully disarming when ignition comes on. Hans may remember.

So currently it arms and disarms on departure/approach with the fob and you simply use the kill switch and starter button - done 3500Km that way now so no rush to reinstall the clutch switch.

HansO had been meaning to discuss with DEcosse before the 'off'.

So that switch i gave you is not that good?
have you injected dielectric grease in there?

 

[HansO]

So that switch i gave you is not that good?
have you injected dielectric grease in there?

one of the two retaining teeth that hold the switch in the clutch lever housing would not engage so switch would move around also its contacts may have been corroded/dirty as even when held in place it worked erratically

 

[DEcosse]

The switch operating when extended - as in unplugged from the socket - is normally closed; so the same as if the wires were bridged (or if the clutch trigger wire to the KeyLess was permanently hard-wired to ground)
That is why it comes on instantly as soon as the remote is in range; even if you turn Kill switch to kill, the ignition will go off but headlight remain on until remote is taken out of range.
If the switch is loose in the socket it may well not be opening properly with the lever relaxed.
Back to norm's original question if you really want to remove it then you wire the two connections CLOSED not open.
But if you do plan for the keyless at some point in future (& I only mention because I quoted you couple of months back) as @Mitzy suggests then better just to leave it connected as per oem

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

I would be wondering if the dignal from the clutvh switch performs anything else bedides the saftey aspect.

Tuneboy map switching?

 

[Mittzy]

one of the two retaining teeth that hold the switch in the clutch lever housing would not engage so switch would move around also its contacts may have been corroded/dirty as even when held in place it worked erratically

@Ishrub i have another switch but I will have a look at it tomorrow

 

[warp9.9]

Isn't there a sensor which tells it what gear it is in?

Ya but

Tuneboy map switching?

Good point my friend although not many people spend more the 20 bucks on tuning software for their bike.

 

[Ishrub]

@Ishrub i have another switch but I will have a look at it tomorrow

Thanks mate!

 

[BigNorm]

Ya but

Good point my friend although not many people spend more the 20 bucks on tuning software for their bike.

If I observe a decrease in performance I'll have that switch reinstalled lickity split

 

[Mittzy]

Thanks mate!

'Tis no good - is all smashed up. I got this one from a wreck I bought.

 

[Ishrub]

'Tis no good - is all smashed up. I got this one from a wreck I bought.

No worries.