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If it were me and I really don't know for sure but I would remove the cable, reposition the pawl so the dimples are aligned and then rotate the pawl clockwise to replace the clutch cable. If it doesn't reach you either need a longer cable or shorter risers. But, you may want to wait for others to chime in.

bob

eta: From the looks of your picture you are moving the pawl the wrong way when you pull in the clutch lever. In other words your pawl is 90 degrees out.
If it were me and I really don't know for sure but I would remove the cable, reposition the pawl so the dimples are aligned and then rotate the pawl clockwise to replace the clutch cable. If it doesn't reach you either need a longer cable or shorter risers. But, you may want to wait for others to chime in.

bob

eta: From the looks of your picture you are moving the pawl the wrong way when you pull in the clutch lever. In other words your pawl is 90 degrees out.
Ok here is a pic I took BEFORE any work was done. Kind of blurry.
 
Soooo, forget everything I said. I don't know why I was thinking what I was. Your pawl looks to be in the right position (more or less), but the shaft isn't because the dimple on the shaft should be lining up with the one on the pawl. I guess we need to wait on one of the guys that have replaced their clutch. They will be along soon.

bob
 
Well hell, I guess I should go look at my bike. But I do know the dimples have to line up.

bob
Ok, tomorrow I will get out there and do that. It seems logical that would be the reason the dimples would be there, yet NOT A THING ABOUT IT in the manual. Just one of those things you should have known I guess.
Thanks for your time tonight. I appreciate it.
 
Perhaps search the thread entitled, "Rocket Clutch Cable Install".
(apologies for I be unsure how to make this a link)
The arm does NOT need to be loosened or removed if you follow a correct sequence.
 
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Here is a pic of how things are now. No way dimples can light up.
The dimples MUST align - PERIOD. Attach the arm correctly and if you get ANY progressive increase in tension rotating the assembly around to where the cable end is - the spring is attached. The arm is PRE TENSIONED in its' "disengaged" position. If you have no pre-tension - get ready to open her up.

ime - if doing this alone - it is easier to attach the lower end of the cable to the arm first then slot the cable outer into the lower support then route teh top end upto the bars.
 
As he said, there's only 1 right way.

If not tension is present after aligning the dots and then turning it around clockwise the correct position, then your internal spring has come loose.

You may, small may, be able to get it to seat again playing with it, but chances are front covers got to come off to reseat the spring.
 
Yep you might be alright slacken cable, pull liftershaft crank arm spin splines counter clockwise. The dot on the shaft will end up at about 2 O'clock position. Put liftershaft crank arm on. Then adjust free play. When you spinning the shaft if you use your finger tips you might fell the tension from the spring its not much and just there to keep the shaft and lifter arm seperated until you squeeze the lever.
 
Perhaps search the thread entitled, "Rocket Clutch Cable Install".
(apologies for I be unsure how to make this a link)
The arm does NOT need to be loosened or removed if you follow a correct sequence.
Yep, I fell back into my old rote routine taking everything off because . . .
well, I remembered doing it that way many years ago on an old dirt bike when I broke a cable. When I got the risers on, I needed a tad more cable length (2 inch height increase) so I thought I could get it from repositioning the cable. I thought "just take everything off get the bars on and make it work". That went ok but for some reason there is very little spring tension on the arm and although I can hear and feel some resistance and movement on the clutch when I actuate the arm, not nearly the resistance there ought to be. I think a trip to the "stealerahip" is in order. Closest one is 200 miles away. I am ashamed and n defeat but hey, it's cold outside and I got another bike to ride anyway. Life could be worse.

What I could have done that screwed everything up was that when I lifted the clutch actuation arm off the post, I might have pulled that post too hard and in turn, also dislodged something inside.
 
Yep you might be alright slacken cable, pull liftershaft crank arm spin splines counter clockwise. The dot on the shaft will end up at about 2 O'clock position. Put liftershaft crank arm on. Then adjust free play. When you spinning the shaft if you use your finger tips you might fell the tension from the spring its not much and just there to keep the shaft and lifter arm seperated until you squeeze the lever.
Sounds like a light touch and a technique I have yet to master.
A few questions . . .
1) what difference does the dot on the shaft make anyway as long as the clutch lever actuates the clutch post enough in order to lift the friction contact plates? It should be able to be located anywhere as long as the post turns the correct amount . . . like the the shifter post operation.

2) I lost you in the last sentence. Rotating that shaft by hand counter clockwise, I do feel spring tension. It's not much but then the stop. Could it be that the clutch is actually actuated past this stop?

It might be that I just need to go further and run all of that tension out before setting.
 
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