Also down where your working you will see the lower cable mounting bracket. Its bolted by two bolts going into the clutch cover. You might have yo pull the lwft side radiator shroud and left rear screen
But if you remove them two bolt and free the mount bracket up things might get easier. Your not upsetting the clutch cover or gasket. After you get everything mounted just stick the two bolts back in and torque I thinks its like 10nm something light but follow the specs.

When you get a chance post a picture of your risers. I've installed the rivco on both rockets and am curious which route you went.
 
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Yes I have no internal you would have to take it out which means pulling the cover. Not that it matters I can do a clutch in two hours with no partaking of beverages :) And Yes if you feel any tension on the internal spring your good to go mind you its not much tension it is just there to help keep the lifter shaft and lifter piece from riding on each other all the time. Provided you have the right free play and do not try to re invent that wheel.
Great news. I did not get to it today, duck hunting got in the way and then helping a friend on his farm.
You have been a great help. Thanks again.
 
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Also down where your working you will see the lower cable mounting bracket. Its bolted by two bolts going into the clutch cover. You might have yo pull the lwft side radiator shroud and left rear screen
But if you remove them two bolt and free the mount bracket up things might get easier. Your not upsetting the clutch cover or gasket. After you get everything mounted just stick the two bolts back in and torque I thinks its like 10nm something light but follow the specs.

When you get a chance post a picture of your risers. I've installed the rivco on both rockets and am curious which route you went.
Wilco. Just snapped a few for you. I had to use smaller bolts and could not get hex heads BUT if you put a ss lock washer under the head, you can tighten down under the triple tree. Also, I had to wrap some metal tape around the bolt shaft to account for takeup but it works and looks good. I used 5in ss 3/4 size and ss nylon lock washer nuts on the bottom. These riser extensions are two inches tall. They position the bars great for me. No more knee knocking. I did the same thing with my roadstar when I got it.
 
Thanks, there indeed IS spring tension when I turn the shaft counter clockwise. It is just that there is not much tension. What you said here about the arm being pretensioned gives me confidence I might still be ok.

So, when rotating the arm left to the stop where ALL spring tension is loaded on the cable, setting the cable and tightening ONLY THEN will the clutch actuator plates lift when the clutch lever is pulled. Is this thinking correct?
If you keep pushing - You'll come to a point where it feels solid. This is when the lifter arm has engaged with the "puller" and you are against the CLUTCH SPRINGS - which you will not move by hand without the additional bar lever mechanical advantage. THERE MUST BE SOME FREEPLAY - as per manual - or you WILL burn the lifter shaft.
 
If you keep pushing - You'll come to a point where it feels solid. This is when the lifter arm has engaged with the "puller" and you are against the CLUTCH SPRINGS - which you will not move by hand without the additional bar lever mechanical advantage. THERE MUST BE SOME FREEPLAY - as per manual - or you WILL burn the lifter shaft.

Thank you and understood! Makes perfect sense. I will rig it where the dot is at the 2oclock setting and both dots matching. Y'all have been a great help.
 
I don't know where I am in the resolution of thus issue, but I was pretty careful not to allow the clutch actuator arm to drop too far down when putting on my risers and replacing the clutch cable. To facilitate putting the cable on the arm I did loosen it and pry it about a third of the way off the shaft to give me a little more clearance to get the ferrule in the opening. I gently tapped the arm back on the shaft after the ferrule was in and finished doing the rest of the install. Sorry to hear about your issue and frustration over the situation. And a firm YES on those mark's must line up.

As for clutch cable length I found 2 1/2 inches longer to be the best choice in spite of some finding 1 1/2 inches to be enough. I posted pictures in the thread below and I will add.... by not skipping on the length, my clutch cable adjusts out much nicer now and also pulls much nicer now as well. The additional cable length and the Barnett cable made a big difference.

Give a look at my pictures in the post and you decide on the cable length from the pictures.

Rocket Clutch Cable Install
 
I don't know where I am in the resolution of thus issue, but I was pretty careful not to allow the clutch actuator arm to drop too far down when putting on my risers and replacing the clutch cable. To facilitate putting the cable on the arm I did loosen it and pry it about a third of the way off the shaft to give me a little more clearance to get the ferrule in the opening. I gently tapped the arm back on the shaft after the ferrule was in and finished doing the rest of the install. Sorry to hear about your issue and frustration over the situation. And a firm YES on those mark's must line up.

As for clutch cable length I found 2 1/2 inches longer to be the best choice in spite of some finding 1 1/2 inches to be enough. I posted pictures in the thread below and I will add.... by not skipping on the length, my clutch cable adjusts out much nicer now and also pulls much nicer now as well. The additional cable length and the Barnett cable made a big difference.

Give a look at my pictures in the post and you decide on the cable length from the pictures.

Rocket Clutch Cable Install
Thanks.. I was understanding that I could get away with a 2 inch rise without problems. My cable is pretty stretched and I may just relocate it.
 
Dont feel bad, i did the exact same thing 4 years ago when putting my risers on.........closest i could get the dots lined up on mine was one notch out , havnt had a problem in 60000 klms
 
Thanks.. I was understanding that I could get away with a 2 inch rise without problems. My cable is pretty stretched and I may just relocate it.

Behind the top tree is always a good option if you don't want to buy a new cable. I had issues with my brake line as well so I had to put it behind the tree. If you are handy.... I drilled and tapped the tree on each side and made some neat little guides like my Valkyrie use to have mounted on it. I used some stainless plain welding rod. I put one on each side just in case I had to run a shorter spare clutch cable I carry. My brake line is run through the one on the right side (not shown with the cable running through).
 

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