Clutch cable problem

[DodahMan]

The dimples MUST align - PERIOD. Attach the arm correctly and if you get ANY progressive increase in tension rotating the assembly around to where the cable end is - the spring is attached. The arm is PRE TENSIONED in its' "disengaged" position. If you have no pre-tension - get ready to open her up.

ime - if doing this alone - it is easier to attach the lower end of the cable to the arm first then slot the cable outer into the lower support then route teh top end upto the bars.

Thanks, there indeed IS spring tension when I turn the shaft counter clockwise. It is just that there is not much tension. What you said here about the arm being pretensioned gives me confidence I might still be ok.

So, when rotating the arm left to the stop where ALL spring tension is loaded on the cable, setting the cable and tightening ONLY THEN will the clutch actuator plates lift when the clutch lever is pulled. Is this thinking correct?

 

[DodahMan]

As he said, there's only 1 right way.

If not tension is present after aligning the dots and then turning it around clockwise the correct position, then your internal spring has come loose.

You may, small may, be able to get it to seat again playing with it, but chances are front covers got to come off to reseat the spring.

Thanks. Do you think I might have dislodged the internal spring when I took that arm off the post? I was pretty gentle with it. Hard to imagine how I could have dislodged something internal.
Also, not a single depiction of an internal spring on the internal actuating shaft. I reviewed chapter pages 4.5 to 4.8. Not a thing anywhere about an internal spring. I will be out there in a cold garage again today.

 

[DodahMan]

Soooo, forget everything I said. I don't know why I was thinking what I was. Your pawl looks to be in the right position (more or less), but the shaft isn't because the dimple on the shaft should be lining up with the one on the pawl. I guess we need to wait on one of the guys that have replaced their clutch. They will be along soon.

bob

Thanks Bob. I am going to line up the dots and load up ALL of the spring tension onto the shaft then reset everything. I think I am ok, I just need to follow halls advice. What you say makes sense.

 

[Joesmoe]

You just have to look at the design. The actuator shaft has a slot cut into it that engages the clutch, and it's pretty critical that the shaft be positioned just so, to both engage the clutch and have enough available travel to pull the clutch apart. The designers used the dots to help the position "blind".

For your challenge, if you carefully wind the actuator CCW, and you feel resistance build, to the point where the dot is at two o'clock or so, you could be o.k.

If, back when you removed the lever, and let the actuator spin CW, there is enough force on the spring to allow the actuator to spin fast and hard enough to cause the spring on the inside to jump out of the retention notch (a simple ridge molded on the front of the case), and trying to rewind it, well, it just isn't designed that smartly.

And removing the front cover is something you can do yourself, and would be a good learning exercise. And it is NOT/NOT opening the clutch -- it is just exposing the front of the clutch (though with the cover off, you should play around with an endoscope, and practice finding the timing marks on the front of the crankshaft) -- and since you have to drain the oil, it could be a good time for an oil and filter change.

 

[warp9.9]

Lifter shaft in the clutch cover with the spring attached.

the alignment marks which I believe Triumph put there for a reason. Or did they just want to waist money

Just imagine how hard it would be to have consistency of placement thru out the world at every Triumph shop That might be capable of changing the clutch. The first models did not have this so I guess its a hunt and peck until you get the crank arm angle in a position that is not detrimental to the cable and the lower cable mount. And as ask what does it matter as long as it actuates the clutch. And well sir in a way you are right if you bought a long enough cable you could say attach it from the rear kind of like reaching completely around the toilet bowl to wipe your arse. Lord help ya if ya try to figure out why there needs to be free play in the cable.

clutch lifter piece fits into the lifter shaft to transfer movement to the pressure plate.

and the lifter piece mounted in the clutch pack so it will pull the pressure plate forward to free up the disc's

a closer view

oh and the clutch system I eliminated the internal return spring in.

Note that the alignment marks are still aligned. Oh and when you have the shaft dot at 2 O'clock the face of the lifter shaft is vertical. This is parallel with the back face of the lifter piece head.
Hope this helps

 

[DodahMan]

Lifter shaft in the clutch cover with the spring attached.

the alignment marks which I believe Triumph put there for a reason. Or did they just want to waist money

Just imagine how hard it would be to have consistency of placement thru out the world at every Triumph shop That might be capable of changing the clutch. The first models did not have this so I guess its a hunt and peck until you get the crank arm angle in a position that is not detrimental to the cable and the lower cable mount. And as ask what does it matter as long as it actuates the clutch. And well sir in a way you are right if you bought a long enough cable you could say attach it from the rear kind of like reaching completely around the toilet bowl to wipe your arse. Lord help ya if ya try to figure out why there needs to be free play in the cable.

clutch lifter piece fits into the lifter shaft to transfer movement to the pressure plate.

and the lifter piece mounted in the clutch pack so it will pull the pressure plate forward to free up the disc's

a closer view

oh and the clutch system I eliminated the internal return spring in.

Note that the alignment marks are still aligned. Oh and when you have the shaft dot at 2 O'clock the face of the lifter shaft is vertical. This is parallel with the back face of the lifter piece head.
Hope this helps

Sir, this is GOLD. Thank you very very much. I am going to turn some wrenches and get through this thanks to all for help.

 

[DodahMan]

Lifter shaft in the clutch cover with the spring attached.

the alignment marks which I believe Triumph put there for a reason. Or did they just want to waist money

Just imagine how hard it would be to have consistency of placement thru out the world at every Triumph shop That might be capable of changing the clutch. The first models did not have this so I guess its a hunt and peck until you get the crank arm angle in a position that is not detrimental to the cable and the lower cable mount. And as ask what does it matter as long as it actuates the clutch. And well sir in a way you are right if you bought a long enough cable you could say attach it from the rear kind of like reaching completely around the toilet bowl to wipe your arse. Lord help ya if ya try to figure out why there needs to be free play in the cable.

clutch lifter piece fits into the lifter shaft to transfer movement to the pressure plate.

and the lifter piece mounted in the clutch pack so it will pull the pressure plate forward to free up the disc's

a closer view

oh and the clutch system I eliminated the internal return spring in.

Note that the alignment marks are still aligned. Oh and when you have the shaft dot at 2 O'clock the face of the lifter shaft is vertical. This is parallel with the back face of the lifter piece head.
Hope this helps

So you eliminated that internal spring putting it on the outside. Is that correct? I may do the same. If I feel ANY resistance as I rotate the clutch shaft counter clockwise, does this mean that the internal spring is OK?

 

[DodahMan]

You just have to look at the design. The actuator shaft has a slot cut into it that engages the clutch, and it's pretty critical that the shaft be positioned just so, to both engage the clutch and have enough available travel to pull the clutch apart. The designers used the dots to help the position "blind".

For your challenge, if you carefully wind the actuator CCW, and you feel resistance build, to the point where the dot is at two o'clock or so, you could be o.k.

If, back when you removed the lever, and let the actuator spin CW, there is enough force on the spring to allow the actuator to spin fast and hard enough to cause the spring on the inside to jump out of the retention notch (a simple ridge molded on the front of the case), and trying to rewind it, well, it just isn't designed that smartly.

And removing the front cover is something you can do yourself, and would be a good learning exercise. And it is NOT/NOT opening the clutch -- it is just exposing the front of the clutch (though with the cover off, you should play around with an endoscope, and practice finding the timing marks on the front of the crankshaft) -- and since you have to drain the oil, it could be a good time for an oil and filter change.

Thanks again. Y'all have put out some awesome advice. How did you learn this? Your bike is fairly new. Did you have to go into it? I like learning but as I am getting older, it hurts after a day of wrenching and wallowing around on the ground.

 

[warp9.9]

So you eliminated that internal spring putting it on the outside. Is that correct? I may do the same. If I feel ANY resistance as I rotate the clutch shaft counter clockwise, does this mean that the internal spring is OK?

Yes I have no internal you would have to take it out which means pulling the cover. Not that it matters I can do a clutch in two hours with no partaking of beverages And Yes if you feel any tension on the internal spring your good to go mind you its not much tension it is just there to help keep the lifter shaft and lifter piece from riding on each other all the time. Provided you have the right free play and do not try to re invent that wheel.

 

[Kenneth67]

If your bike is in trouble... call on @warp9.9 !!