Back to the brake lever.... as I said, I've tried it and thought "great," only for it to return to being less firm pretty quickly. I read an explanation of why this is somewhere, but don't remember the reason. One thing I'd suggest trying is to perform another bleeding session immediately after you've released the lever. That may be effective.
I came across a trick that helped me bleed a car that was giving me trouble. Use a long bleed hose and raise it above the master cylinder. Once the fluid level is above the MC secure the hose and leave the bleeder valve open over night. The idea is that the air bubbles will rise to the highest point in the system. Some bangs here and there with a rubber mallet might help move things along. This did work for me, but I worried about how much moisture from the atmosphere was being absorbed through the open line.
I just rebuilt my rear caliper, replaced the pads and bled the rear- easy. Next are the fronts, which I anticipate will be a challenge to fully bleed, as usual.
The Brembo front brake master cylinder on '00 to '07 KTMs is known to be mushy and bleeding does not help. There are a bunch of tips on how to improve it that I've tried but no gain. Then I saw the tech tip to put a zip tie on the lever such that there is pressure in the system and leave it...
I'm going to try this from that thread...
"One final way to really help this trick is after you cut the zip tie. DO NOT PULL IN THE LEVER but gently place a thin screwdriver between the brake pad and the rotor and gently push the piston back into the caliper a small amount. This alone has the best chance of bleeding any gas out of the system."