Bought my first Triumph ever... an '07 Rocket 3 with 100k on it and charging issues!

[TURBO200R4]

Yes it was bad it was black on about 1/3 of it. Checked bad (grounds out)
There was a special reg we installed u might want to do that.
If u use the search there should be a couple of threads od the stator. As a matter of fact i am giong to guess there will be some links at the bottom of this thread. Just look not impressed.
Hth

 

[JLeather]

Lol, currently all the "related threads" are about buying a R3 and not fixing one I have read through Prestaged's thread where he lifted the rear of the bike. I'm also accumulating a list of "shoulds" in addition to the stator (clutch lifter, detent spring, drop the sump and clean the screens, timing chain check/adjustment, etc). I'm going to make one last plea that I find something else wrong with the wiring this week before I buy $600 worth of parts, but failing that we'll dig in. I have read up on the SH847AA reg/rec which I intend to purchase only from Roadstercycle, and the stator itself I expect I'll be buying from Ricks. I've ran a Ricks reg/rec unit on several CB750's over the years. It's pretty much a standard piece if I'm buying or fixing one.

Is there a good thread on checking the torsion bearings while I'm doing this, or is it safe to assume if the bike made it to 100K they are properly installed?

 

[TURBO200R4]

rhe 05 i worked had 150000 those bearings were good
clean and look at the splines on the drive line and final drive some of the bearings it the torque assy were put in backwards from factory yours r probably ok with that many miles.
i am sure that u will get a lot of help while doing this job.

 

[TURBO200R4]

u might want to read in your spare time there r some info on stator and also the timing chain adjustor.

My Moto Hobo life

8 hours is probably about right Jim, remind him of temp sensor in block and also the tightning sequence of the motor. And he can indeed pivot the bike without removing the engine saving some time. I hope he ordered you a stator from Ricks electric,

www.r3owners.net

ps
i only lowered the engine about 3-4 inches and was able to maneuver the cover out. and don't forget to remove oil sending unit or u will break it.

 

[Prestaged]

Don't forget to remove oil sending unit or u will break it.

I will attest to that. Have a broken one to prove it.

 

[Mike188]

Welcome from South Australia, hope you get it sorted.

 

[JLeather]

It has begun... Fluids drained, radiator, back wheel, exhaust, and final drive off so far. I haven't found any threads detailing the "frame lift" method in terms of what must come off. I've seen people say the front fender and wheel must be removed, but it looks like there's a good bit of room with just the radiator out? Also all 4 engine bolts must be fully removed (per Prestaged's thread)? I know the swingarm, rear brake hard line, shifter linkage must come off yet.

Also, I'm trying to get some parts squared away while it's still being torn down. Is the stator housing sealed with a reusable gasket/o-ring or will I for sure need one of those? Also while the radiator is out I want to check the clutch and lifter. Is that gasket designed to be reused?

 

[TURBO200R4]

U loosen the top two front engine bolts and let it swing down about 4 inches and then u can rotate the rear cover and it will come out u will need new front and rear gaskets. By not bringing it down very far we was able to leave some things hooked up on top.
We had some dif size boards and rocked the bike back and forth once we got it up to where back tire just touched the floor we removed top shock and installed chain loop across then used come along for back on front we wrapped a heavy strap around front and used another come along our shop is set up with a beam with two hooks about 8 feet apart. U might not be able to use this method.
U can post or pm me with questions.
Herman

 

[JLeather]

Also I've ordered a new stator from Rick's and a SH847AA "super kit" from roadstercycle (taking no chances on counterfeits). I've got a tool that I think will fit the swingarm bolts and I'm making a rotor puller.

Also, given it's a high-miles bike with no maintenance history (though it appears to have been well cared for) and given that I have the radiator and front wheel off what's the consensus on a prophylactic replacement of the detent spring and/or clutch lifter arm? I'm more inclined towards the spring as springs always have a finite lifespan whereas my reading on the lifter arm suggests that most failures are related to incorrect clutch adjustment?

 

[TURBO200R4]

Also I've ordered a new stator from Rick's and a SH847AA "super kit" from roadstercycle (taking no chances on counterfeits). I've got a tool that I think will fit the swingarm bolts and I'm making a rotor puller.

Also, given it's a high-miles bike with no maintenance history (though it appears to have been well cared for) and given that I have the radiator and front wheel off what's the consensus on a prophylactic replacement of the detent spring and/or clutch lifter arm? I'm more inclined towards the spring as springs always have a finite lift whereas my reading on the lifter arm suggests that most failures are related to incorrect clutch adjustment?

On Jim's bike I could tell it was worn out by the position of the arm that applies it and the fact that it was hard to pull.
If you take a picture of yours and post, I can compare it with mine. Of course with that many miles you probably need to take a peek just to check things out. As far as changing springs I would say it's like tossing a coin about 50/50 what is best.
Guys will be following this thread so if in doubt just post a pic.