Another none starter

I'm home now, so I am going to make one last post. It probably is overkill and I may be criticized for it being over the top, but here it goes.

Roadster and Classic Wiring

This may be beyond your skill set but prove useful at a later date

On your bike, fuses 1,2,3,4,6 and 7 should always show 12 volts across them even with the switch off. They are tied directly to the main 30 amp (fuse 11) coming from the battery. Fuse 2 is the main fuse that feeds the ignition switch while fuse 11 represents the main fuse tied directly to the battery and providing power from the battery to the fuse box. Fuse 11 is also tied directly to the rectifier and alternator charging system.

Fuses 5 and 9 are energized when the switch is turned on. Fuse 8 is also energized by a link connected to fuse 9. The critical fuses related to the switch are fuses 2, 5, and 9. Jumping between the these three fuses, in essence, bypasses the switch and would act the same as turning on the ignition switch. Fuse 10 also becomes active with the switch turned on, but it should not affect the ability of the bike to start... just lighting. As a final note, on my touring fuse panel, the outside edges of the fuses represent the powered side of the fuses and the inner terminals of the fuses in the center of the fuse box represent power THROUGH the fuse to the circuits. To maintain the integrity of the circuit being properly protected and fused, any jumping of fuses 2, 5, and 9 should be done on the inner most terminals of the fuses to avoid defeating the fuses and burning up your wiring.

To test the integrity of your switch, should you ever need too, I would jumper 2, 5 and 9 together with adequate gage wire and try to start the bike. The best way to do this would be to make pigtail fuses and put them in circuit with a 30 amp toggle switch. One terminal of the toggle switch being connected to the fuse 2 pigtail and fuse 5 & 9 pigtails being tied together and attached to the other terminal of the toggle switch. Flipping the switch would be like turning on the key.

put a battery (charge the new bat) in it and it should start. if it don't we will tell you what to do.
if you don't want to do this
get a multi meter and start checking voltage while cranking
if you don't want to do this
take it to the dealer and let them figure it out.

baz said:

The battery is showing....12.69 on the
multimeter

Click to expand...

I hate replying to a post that was done so many days ago but since this thread is still going there is one important fact a 12 volt battery is 13.2 volts in actuality. 2.2volts per cel. If after its been charged for a long time and it does not reach 13.2 volts then the battery is most likely bad. Another thing is that a battery will hold a surface charge and apear to fully charge which is why you should check the voltage while its cranking I've seen on other posts here where 8 & 9 volts are the grey area but in all my years at the cycle shop anything less than 10 volts we would change out the battery. there were times when the batteries would be so low that the starter motor is turning over the motor, but there's not enough voltage to fire the coils and make the plugs spark.

forklift said:

I hate replying to a post that was done so many days ago but since this thread is still going there is one important fact a 12 volt battery is 13.2 volts in actuality. 2.2volts per cel. If after its been charged for a long time and it does not reach 13.2 volts then the battery is most likely bad. Another thing is that a battery will hold a surface charge and apear to fully charge which is why you should check the voltage while its cranking I've seen on other posts here where 8 & 9 volts are the grey area but in all my years at the cycle shop anything less than 10 volts we would change out the battery. there were times when the batteries would be so low that the starter motor is turning over the motor, but there's not enough voltage to fire the coils and make the plugs spark.

Click to expand...

Sounds good and makes sense, but I though he said he had been through several batteries....I can't believe they are all bad. I ran a test on mine awhile back and it dropped to 9 volts during the crank. The bottom good area of my tester. Considering the size of the engine and the drain on the starter that could be acceptable for this bike. It cranked great and fired right off with no problem. Always has up to this point. According to the chart I posted from the repair manual it does appear a little anemic at 12.69. Almost like there is a drain on it, a weak cell or it's not holding a full charge. I didn't ask if he has multiple connections hooked to his battery or if just the main leads. I actually have been considering a new battery for my bike since it is two years old and was sitting at the dealership almost 2 years not being on a charger.

Bedifferent said:

Sounds good and makes sense, but I though he said he had been through several batteries....I can't believe they are all bad. I ran a test on mine awhile back and it dropped to 9 volts during the crank. The bottom good area of my tester. Considering the size of the engine and the drain on the starter that could be acceptable for this bike. It cranked great and fired right off with no problem. Always has up to this point. According to the chart I posted from the repair manual it does appear a little anemic at 12.69. Almost like there is a drain on it, a weak cell or it's not holding a full charge. I didn't ask if he has multiple connections hooked to his battery or if just the main leads. I actually have been considering a new battery for my bike since it is two years old and was sitting at the dealership almost 2 years not being on a charger.

Click to expand...

So. ..i bought an optimate 4 charger just cuz one of the bikes sits doing nothing from month to month (it's the missus bike ) anyway...fully charged showing a good test on an odyssey PC625 battery....first attempt bike slowly turned but didn't fire...left a few seconds...2nd attempt bike turned far faster and fired up....Prior to this I used the stock battery same scenario fully charged with good test and it wouldn't fire at all...so...is this in you opinions possibly a cranking problem? Sorry to keep this post going so long...no doubt your all getting frustrated by my lack of knowledge

No mate. I'm getting frustrated with everyone else's lack of knowledge.
Keep it going until you get it going!

I agree with @CanberraR3 keep at it until she fires and runs, nobody on here minds. Your only obligation is to post what you eventually find so that you can help out the next guy down the line...pay it forward as it were

Baz,it's definatly a cranking problem,you need to get the multimeter out and read post 42 from Turbo. How many miles are on the bike?

FOR what it is worth.
i have had trouble for a long time the engine just would not crank fast enough so i had to give it a shot if starting fluid.
yesterday i installed the motor part of the 17610 starter. i did not remove the starter from the bike. i have the bypass pipes on my 07 so i just removed the two long bolts and the nut and switched the motors. (would recommend a mechanic to do this)
this morning it made about three revs then started right up. ALRIGHT
I have an extra ground wire i think i will in stall later. and maybe rebuild the solenoid
hth herman

Just rebuilt the solenoid on my mates 04 with 85000miles on it .He was getting a click most times he pressed the button then it would just fire up. We fitted the kit from Repairkits uk an it fires right up every time. A BIG difference. Easy job.