Another none starter

[baz]

My OptiMate shows a drop to 9 volts during cranking to be the lowest reading for a still acceptable battery under starting conditions. 8 volts and below gets into that gray area. The problem is, that is a difficult reading to catch with an analog or digital meter. The OptiMate actually holds that reading on the display for several seconds so you can read it while it also indicates charging voltage. I agree, no significant voltage drop indicates a bad connection and also warrants looking at the starter solenoid if you're having problems.

I have been running on the assumption that you are having a cranking speed issue. If the engine simply does not fire when it is turned over, that is a whole new batch of issues. I have not read enough nor seen proof that low voltage during startup would prevent your bike from firing as well. If jumping with a know good battery starts the bike as TriumPhil suggests, it is most likely a poor connection or battery issue. Access to spark and fuel indications is pretty tough to see with the way everything buried in the bike. A simple cheap neon test bulb held right next to a plug wire should indicate high voltage is present meaning you have spark. I use a small plastic tube to hold bulb keeping the leads separated or you can buy one of the cheap little neon tester you can find at the hardware store. 20,000 plus volts through the plug wires generates enough RF energy around the plug wire to light the bulb. As for fuel, I don't know of a simple way to check for that.

In any event, keep us informed as to what you find, so we can all better troubleshoot our beasts. By the way, all of these failure posts are scarring me about my new bike. I may have to stop reading the forum.

hello again....I'm not 100% but the push button start does seem to be a factor...i I just went to start the bike...It turned as you would expect...didn't fire first time but it's cold...second attempt...just a 'click...third attempt. ..click then turned slowly...4th attempt...normal turning...then back to click as if the battery was dead....so given its possible it's the electric start...would anyone have a fix for this?? Baring in mind I don't know what I'm looking for lol

 

[TURBO200R4]

what is happening is the battery is draining and when it gets low enough it will disengage the starter relay. bat volts will come back up and then you can hit button and then the same thing will happen again. a volt meter will prove this. a bad connection will do the same thing.

 

[baz]

what is happening is the battery is draining and when it gets low enough it will disengage the starter relay. bat volts will come back up and then you can hit button and then the same thing will happen again. a volt meter will prove this. a bad connection will do the same thing.

So you think it may be the battery??

I've got an odyssey PC625 (which I need to charge) as it's flat having no luck with batteries lol

 

[TURBO200R4]

I hate to put it like this but if everything else is ok then the battery needs charging or replaced.
this being Monday i have forgotten who said what.
Warp posted some nice pictures (THANKS WARP) of the starter solenoid and pictures are worth a thousand words.
you can see the wear on the contacts and there will also be wear on the brushes this causes starter to draw more current and at some point the battery cannot keep up. so the engine turns over slow.

 

[TURBO200R4]

I HAVE A THEORY.
I think when the starter turns over the computer has to see a certain rpm to activate the injectors. if the computer does not see enough rpm (slow cranking engine) it will NOT activate the injectors and the engine will not start.
as i have said mine will crank slow and not start but if i give it a shot of starting fluid it comes alive.
i have not checked my injectors to see if they are firing that is why i call it a theory. there could be a lot of other factors and i am sure others will tell you about them. i have ordered the 17610 starter for mine and i think that that will take care of my problem.

 

[baz]

I HAVE A THEORY.
I think when the starter turns over the computer has to see a certain rpm to activate the injectors. if the computer does not see enough rpm (slow cranking engine) it will NOT activate the injectors and the engine will not start.
as i have said mine will crank slow and not start but if i give it a shot of starting fluid it comes alive.
i have not checked my injectors to see if they are firing that is why i call it a theory. there could be a lot of other factors and i am sure others will tell you about them. i have ordered the 17610 starter for mine and i think that that will take care of my problem.

think it's worth maybe checking the starter motor connection etc...I'm guessing it's located in an easy to get to position? Not looked as yet

 

[Bedifferent]

hello again....I'm not 100% but the push button start does seem to be a factor...i I just went to start the bike...It turned as you would expect...didn't fire first time but it's cold...second attempt...just a 'click...third attempt. ..click then turned slowly...4th attempt...normal turning...then back to click as if the battery was dead....so given its possible it's the electric start...would anyone have a fix for this?? Baring in mind I don't know what I'm looking for lol

It sounds like a bad or loose connection to me. That as well as the strong possibility of a firm maybe.... it could be the solenoid. Why you ask? I never heard of a battery returning to normal like it did on the 4th try. To me that is inconsistent with a weak battery and more indicative of a poor connection. The solenoid represents a connection as well. I can't explain why it doesn't fire under a normal starter spin. That says to me the volts/amps are there and for some other reason it won't fire.

 

[TriumPhil]

Prime the injectors (let gauges sweep and then shut ignition off) once or twice before attempting to start the recalcitrant beast! Have you tried jump-starting off a vehicle with a good, strong battery yet? If not, charge your battery first (again), follow the priming procedure above and give it a go...

 

[Bedifferent]

What TriumPhil says plus some more thoughts....The ignition switch energizes several points in the fuse box. I can't tell you which ones in particular at the moment because I don't have my diagram in front of me. If they are not energized it could be the switch. Have you actually tested all of the fuses in the fuse box with a continuity tester? I assume you have not overlooked the obvious. The bike reads neutral, the clutch is in, the kickstand is up, and the kill switch is in the correct position. Can you hear the fuel pump energize when the key is turn on? Do the headlights go off when you engage the starter. If all appears normal with these checks, then we are back to checking connectons.

 

[baz]

What TriumPhil says plus some more thoughts....The ignition switch energizes several points in the fuse box. I can't tell you which ones in particular at the moment because I don't have my diagram in front of me. If they are not energized it could be the switch. Have you actually tested all of the fuses in the fuse box with a continuity tester? I assume you have not overlooked the obvious. The bike reads neutral, the clutch is in, the kickstand is up, and the kill switch is in the correct position. Can you hear the fuel pump energize when the key is turn on? Do the headlights go off when you engage the starter. If all appears normal with these checks, then we are back to checking connectons.

yup all would appear normal with the above mate...haven't tried a jump start as yet though