New Starter rebuild and new battery.... ISSUE with starting... baffles me... will not start on 1st crank attempt

[sleeves]

Again, his never happend after the starter swap. It happend imidiatly after I swapped the battery, about 30 starts or so and most of them a cold start. It's not the starter.
So now it's been getting more operatic with some times it taking 3 or even 4th attempt to get it to start. And some times right kn the 1st try....
eventually I feel it's just not going to start. I'll have time to mess with it tomorrow.
I think I need to do a valve adjust asap. I just started having a cold running clunking tapping type of sound. Just started the last 3 cold starts. Goes away when warm.
So yea.... I'm just going to pile into a full maintenance day tomorrow

The #1 question that I dont know the answere to is .... what runs off the relay? Does the fuel injectors? Coils? Ect.

Ah sorry was misunderstanding. The clunk sounds ominous.

I have a wiring diagram but not on me so would need to look at it ro determine what runs/controls what.

Keep us posted on your findings as it's curious.

 

[TURBO200R4]

I may be a little off hear
Ignition switch to fuse to kill switch then ecu and engine management relay (ecu energizes the relay) relay feeds power to injectors coil and other fuel pump ect.
Ecu takes signal from crank sensor and then grounds/fires the injectors and coils
Hth herman

 

[TURBO200R4]

For what it is worth
Mine has to set in the sun for a few hours right side facing sun b4 it will start.

 

[cootertwo]

I wouldn't do anything until I solved this problem FIRST. If you start tearing into other things, it will make the diagnosis much harder. Ask me how I know......

 

[Gerald]

Again, his never happend after the starter swap. It happend imidiatly after I swapped the battery, about 30 starts or so and most of them a cold start. It's not the starter.
So now it's been getting more operatic with some times it taking 3 or even 4th attempt to get it to start. And some times right kn the 1st try....
eventually I feel it's just not going to start. I'll have time to mess with it tomorrow.
I think I need to do a valve adjust asap. I just started having a cold running clunking tapping type of sound. Just started the last 3 cold starts. Goes away when warm.
So yea.... I'm just going to pile into a full maintenance day tomorrow

The #1 question that I dont know the answere to is .... what runs off the relay? Does the fuel injectors? Coils? Ect.

I'd follow Sleeves suggestion and try another battery so you could take that out of the equation. For me, it still seems like the ecu. Is there a separate engine management relay or only the ecu?

 

[sleeves]

I may be a little off hear
Ignition switch to fuse to kill switch then ecu and engine management relay (ecu energizes the relay) relay feeds power to injectors coil and other fuel pump ect.
Ecu takes signal from crank sensor and then grounds/fires the injectors and coils
Hth herman

The ECU also has a minimum operating voltage too meaning bump starting is a problem with a flat battery. Old bikes were so much easier

 

[cootertwo]

I can't remember exactly, but there is a point where the ignition just shuts down. Bike will still try to crank, but zero spark.

 

[TURBO200R4]

I don't think it's the ECU here. This may be a PIA to try but maybe take the starter motor out of the equation.

Disconnect it from bike system (electrically) and direct connect it to another battery sitting next to the bike that is fully charged (obviously) with different cables, don't use garbage jumper cables.

Crank it like normal and see if it fires up first shot and quickly. This would probably make targeting the issue much easier.
Still slow I'd look at the starter motor if it's faster and sparks up wiring relays or battery, then it's parts swapping time

This is a brilliant post
It is a starter test
A battery test
You can alsso test the ignition, fuel pump, injectors and coils .
By removing the starter voltage drop
it might make the difference between starting and not starting especialy in a case like this.
I wish I would have known of this when i first started having trouble.
Now on mine it might make the difference when starting in the morning.
Thank you sleeves

 

[Mongler07]

After letting my mind fester for a while on this, i think its actually a voltage spike... not so much a spike as it is more than it was used to before. Hear me out.
This is all just pure speculation mixed with a small amount of electrical experience, i have seen similar issues with relay switches on AC systems for homes and the cause was her voltage from the source needing a buck boost transformer to lower the voltage that was then an issue for the old switches.
I think that the relay or whatever mechanical switches are being worked here are used to my old battery that it had and the older battery i used temporarily. (they were NOT the right size for the rocket). once i change the battery it now has higher amp and voltage output into the same connections that have wear on them, this wear prevents larger contact until its attempted a few times. Basically the same issue that the starter switch has... tons of corrosion that is "ok with the old lower voltage and amps, but cant handle more anymore! Make sense?
The issue is most likely with the components connected to the now correct healthy battery. I have seen stuff similar to this happen but not often enough to jump to it as the primary suspect cause.
I would suspect its NOT a voltage drop issue so much as its a worn out component.
I have what i would call a very high amount of skill mechanically and i would not suspect the battery or the starter as the issue. Not with how much i have invested into putting them into service (starter rebuild ect).

 

[Gerald]

After letting my mind fester for a while on this, i think its actually a voltage spike... not so much a spike as it is more than it was used to before. Hear me out.
This is all just pure speculation mixed with a small amount of electrical experience, i have seen similar issues with relay switches on AC systems for homes and the cause was her voltage from the source needing a buck boost transformer to lower the voltage that was then an issue for the old switches.
I think that the relay or whatever mechanical switches are being worked here are used to my old battery that it had and the older battery i used temporarily. (they were NOT the right size for the rocket). once i change the battery it now has higher amp and voltage output into the same connections that have wear on them, this wear prevents larger contact until its attempted a few times. Basically the same issue that the starter switch has... tons of corrosion that is "ok with the old lower voltage and amps, but cant handle more anymore! Make sense?
The issue is most likely with the components connected to the now correct healthy battery. I have seen stuff similar to this happen but not often enough to jump to it as the primary suspect cause.
I would suspect its NOT a voltage drop issue so much as its a worn out component.
I have what i would call a very high amount of skill mechanically and i would not suspect the battery or the starter as the issue. Not with how much i have invested into putting them into service (starter rebuild ect).

I would still bypass existing battery with a known good battery just to eliminate it from being the problem.