Air/fuel gauge

[BigNorm]

I'm wanting to get an air fuel gauge for my R3T. I would like to get one that is good quality but I don't want to spend hundreds on it. Also I would like recomendations on a good sensor to go with it. Thanks as always. NORM

 

[DEcosse]

Take a look at Innovate - Digital Monitoring Products, Tuning Tools, & Controllers. Innovate Motorsports

MTX-L PLUS Digital Wideband Air/fuel Ratio Gauge - all you need in one kit for $219 (incl sensor, bung, cables etc)

Or go with LC-2 kit for same price - Innovate Motor Sports On-Line Store

 

[BigNorm]

Take a look at Innovate - Digital Monitoring Products, Tuning Tools, & Controllers. Innovate Motorsports

MTX-L PLUS Digital Wideband Air/fuel Ratio Gauge - all you need in one kit for $219 (incl sensor, bung, cables etc)

Or go with LC-2 kit for same price - Innovate Motor Sports On-Line Store

Thanks @DEcosse p

 

[Kenneth67]

I can vouch for both Dynojet's Wideband 2 and AEM 52mm gauge AFR kit.


Dynojet's has the advantage of autotuning option, but you need PCV too, plus the Wideband O2 module & sensor are usually sold separately from the AFR gauge.
You could spend more money and get the POD-300 LCD unit to show it instead of a 52mm gauge


On the other hand, AEM option is cheaper, kit comes with gauge and sensor.
Just gives a live readout of AFR but has no control/autotune function unless you buy more stuff.
But at least you get all you're looking for in 1 kit.
Same sensor as the Dynojet, a Bosch LSU 4.2 with 18mm x 1.5mm thread (same as fitting on Rocket's exhaust)


With either kit you'll need a blank socket for the bike's own O2 sensor plug on the wiring harness, and a cup to hold the AFR gauge (I can also recommend a few options there) on your handlebar
Unless you get the Dynojet stuff and their POD-300 LCD display

 

[BigNorm]

Thanks Ken. Could you provide some links for the cups? Does the dynojets pod work with turbo applications?

 

[Kenneth67]

If you want to pay (a lot) you could get the fancier Dakota Digital CUP-3001 and BKT-3100 (R3T has 1" bar..?)

Or I've a black plastic one you can have for postage if you like.

Can't advise on the POD-300, don't know anyone who has it AND a turbo, but I'm sure someone with the POD-300 will chime in and speculate

 

[barbagris]

Thanks Ken. Could you provide some links for the cups? Does the dynojets pod work with turbo applications?

Ask @Claviger - I'm sure he's investigating. The POD simply displays what the PCV and other addons (like the WB02 or AT) make available. If all you want is an AFR display it's an expensive way to get there. But The POD will also LOG data which is useful. BUT the AFR values you'll see are NOT a smooth curve like on some CAR fitments. I'll let Rob explain why.

Link Removed

 

[Claviger]

There a lot of decent O2 setups out there, the best reasonably priced one imo is the innovative LC-3. It can feed it’s data into the Innovative ecosystem of devices to enable datalogging of OBD data as well as the O2 data. I did just that for a while using the innovative LM-2, it’s nice because you can collect the manifold pressure data, so it lets you tune the L-Tables.

BUT, you have to do all your fueling adjustments in TuneECU, which, has it’s limitations and once you hit 180 WHP or so, it isn’t the easiest software to use.

Instead for a turbo setup I strongly advocated or the following, all from dynojet:
PC-V
PC-V Ignition module
Auto tune
POD-300
Multifunction Hub
Map Switch
3 BAR sensor

The PC-V should be connected to the optional inputs including:
Coolant Temp
Vehicle Speed

Then software wise, set the map switch to act as a pump/race fuel selector for two different maps. You can wire it to simultaneously close a relay raising the boost on an electronic boost controller.
Do not use “by gear fueling”. Use the Fuelig mode that uses RPM on one axis and manifold pressure on the other axis.
Set the ignition module to retard timing by 2 degrees per psi of boost and 1 degree per psi on race gas. Leave the ignition table all zeros.
Leave the autotune AFR targets all zeros while dynoing, then adjust the table to be MAP vs RPM instead of TPS vs RPM as it defaults to. These are absolute pressures not boost so, Set anything under 1BAR @ 13.5AFR target, 1-1.3 BAR @ 12.4 AFR, and 1.4+ @ 11.8 AFR. Set authority for the auto tuner to be +15% / -5%. NEVER accept trims, just let it do it’s thing. This is after it’s been tuned on a dyno only!!

Use the multifunction output for a shift light.

If you do above, you’ll have a self correcting setup that will adapt to an extremely wide range of conditions.

Most people don’t realize just how advanced the PC-V really is, using for just a fuel trim device like 90% of people do is kind of a waste, because Dynojet could make a product 1/2 the cost to do only fuel trims (sadly they don’t).


If the above is over your head, play with the software to see what the different options do and read read read, going into tuning a boosted vehicle without requisite knowledge WILL end up with a broken motor.

 

[Claviger]

Finally sorted out my power commander v and AT too work together, the problem i was having there was a bad connection on the positive side. I had connected the power wire to my rear brake light, tapping into the wire with the tags supplied by dynajet this gave me insufficient power to power up the autotune. My question to all of you out there with the same setup where did you draw your power source from, there my be a better solution that i could try.

Did you have a GPS with you? Just wondering how fast you brought it up to? If you hit 5th you went faster than me, I haven't found enough straight flat road to run out of 4th.

Ask @Claviger - I'm sure he's investigating. The POD simply displays what the PCV and other addons (like the WB02 or AT) make available. If all you want is an AFR display it's an expensive way to get there. But The POD will also LOG data which is useful. BUT the AFR values you'll see are NOT a smooth curve like on some CAR fitments. I'll let Rob explain why.

Link Removed

The data is spiked because of how fast it samples the information, it will be a help when tuning, low speed sampling means you get low quality tuning.

 

[Torque addict]

I can vouch for the AEM gauge Kenneth67 linked above as well. Works good. The housing I used was this one from KOSO. I tried the Dakota Digital CUP-3100 first and ended up returning it. Didn't look nearly as nice as the KOSO IMO. The gauge ended up sticking outside of the cup. In the KOSO it ends up slightly recessed for a nice flush look. It is more recessed at top however due to the overhang which I think worked well in my application with the flyscreen (compliments it).