10w40 or 15w50?

Claviger said:
TLDR: Try the one you've not used on next oil change. Use whichever shifts better on your bike within a given brand.

Anything that shifts smoothly and feels good at the 5k mile mark is working well. Some of the cheaper synthetics, like Castrol or Royal Purple, start to feel bad to me by like 2k mark so I don't use them. Mobile1 4T 10-40 is, in my humble opinion, the best value for money motorcycle oil.

25 interval oils, 15-40 for example, has fewer modifiers in it and will not shear or break down as fast.

Anything over 25 interval has modifiers which provide the extended range of 10-40 for example or 15-50.

If you're genuinely concerned, send samples to blakstonetec and have analysis done.

FWIW:
Mufasa gets 15-40 Amsoil Marine and Diesel at 5k miles or less, but usually around 3500. It comes out as soon as I see black micro-particulate in the oil. It's wasteful and the oil is still very much good (and in the future Mufasa's waste oil will go into the H2 for another 4k miles).

Daytona gets Rotella T6. Daytona doesn't care. Would probably be happy with melted butter lol.

H2 got Valvoline 10-40 for first change, but will move to Amsoil 15-40 Marine and Diesel next change. Valvoline was used because it's cheap, synthetic, and was going to be a short interval with some break in time remaining on it.

All the R3 engines I've seen inside that run "motorcycle" oil, like Mobile 1 4T etc have oil staining on everything. Mufasa has zero. None. Look inside, everything is silver and once cleaned literally looks like new. From the oil or my low mile change intervals? No idea, but I know Amsoil 15-40 M&D feels best for my transmission, has extra components the 4T oils do not to protect and clean, and is only 11.25/quart here. While pricey, it's less than the premium 4Ts which don't perform as well.
Click to expand...
Thanks for this information! I’ll look for the Mobile1
 
Wdugan9080 said:
What you have a tach👍😁 nice, it's been a while since I've been there, around here if I get caught 20 mph over say 65, so at 85mph they threaten to throw you in jail, so I've never been there, and don't plan on going anytime soon, but my buddy got pulled over racing me when I was young and I was clocked at 110 in 3rd gear, I got over a hill , saw the break lights go on and banged 4th and kept going, talked to my buddy later, actually passed them by back in the group while they were pulled over, 2 biddies actually, talk about a good time, they didn't even get a ticket, he wanted me though for some reason, you can't make this a**t up, for some reason in the 80's the Speedo only went to 80mph so I had know idea what I was going half the time, I raced a Mopar road runner with the old lady on the back and asked him and he had no idea, buried 120 Speedo, my X loved it, after having a flat on a Sunday poker run she rode with my cousin the rest of the day, got to the end of the run and heard all the horror stories, never got on the back again, it was great without her 😁 nag nag nah, she left me and and the kid's wanted to come back about 6 months later, nobody wanted her back, both kids said no to her right in front of me, it was classic, a longer story than that and even more, better stuff, it was like a real life soap opera, you can't make up. All I know is life is great without her 😁👍🥂 Oh one more thing, when I took a test drive on my rocket I felt a small wobble at 45 mph and after getting it home and on the road legal, I checked the tire pressure before going out, was I think 26 front and like 28 psi rear, felt a lot better after 36 and 42, also noticed he had a radial excedra on the back and a bias Metzler on the front, I was like that is weird. and he gave me a new replacement bias excedra for the front , I called Bridgestone to match a bias tire for the back, I couldn't find a listing for a bias in that size, and he didn't even want to talk to me, all he said was Bridgestone doesn't make a tire for the rocket, didn't think to ask why, but read in the group, they used to come with excedras max and they recalled then cause they were disintegrating from the inside out. So I sold the tire for $60, and bought 2 Metzler's me888 from the dealership, triumph manufacturing recommended the Metzler's and Avon Cobra's for the 08 r3t, tire's $500 for both and they wound up charging me $350 to install, after a $150 quote, go figure, all he said was it took him 2.5 hrs, I don't argue, I just won't go back there again. Had another problem ordering parts too, never got them, a couple heat shield bolts so wrote that off they said they refunded me? I'm totally down with them. I made the order for the relay's and wound up cancelling, got an email for the order today? Sent a reply no answer, so don't know if I'm totally done yet??? Have to look at the account, like $87 for 3 relay's??? I feel violated 😂😅😭 hahaha lol, have a good one GL and GB
Click to expand...
You should get that period key fixed on your laptop. 😉
 
Gregger said:
Bernard, why the 60 weight oil? The bike really doesn't need it. Not criticizing you, just curious. Actually since most of us don't run our bikes in cold weather, we really don't need a multi grade oil, so adding a straight weight reduces the potential for viscosity breakdown ++. The engine in my Buick uses 0W-20. In my 2012 Roadster, I run full synthetic 10W-40 Amzoil or Mobil motorcycle specific oil, since the temps in my area are quite temperate. A dealer/owner/mechanic I spoke to in Staynor Ontario stated that he sticks to 10W-40 because of our climate. He also stated that if he lived in the southern US, he'd stick to the 15W-50. Since I haven't heard of anyone really having oil related problems I'd have no problem using either grades. Heck, I've even used Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 with no issues (there is a T6 15W-40 available now). Most diesel oils without friction modifiers will work in our engines with no ill effects on our clutches. Just stick to oils which have the JASO, MA, MA2 etc ratings that Triumph requests in their manual.
Click to expand...
The 60 weigh was actually a mistake but I kept it tried oil change with 60 and it was too thick of the engine , gas consumption went through the roof . went back to 50 weigh and just to get rid of oil without throwing it out ,included it in oil change and was good . Fuel consumption went back to normal but I noticed transmission made less noise when shifting. So went through all the 60 weigh and I'm back to 15-50 Amsoil and all is good . Waste - not , want - not !
 
Claviger said:
TLDR: Try the one you've not used on next oil change. Use whichever shifts better on your bike within a given brand.

Anything that shifts smoothly and feels good at the 5k mile mark is working well. Some of the cheaper synthetics, like Castrol or Royal Purple, start to feel bad to me by like 2k mark so I don't use them. Mobile1 4T 10-40 is, in my humble opinion, the best value for money motorcycle oil.

25 interval oils, 15-40 for example, has fewer modifiers in it and will not shear or break down as fast.

Anything over 25 interval has modifiers which provide the extended range of 10-40 for example or 15-50.

If you're genuinely concerned, send samples to blakstonetec and have analysis done.

FWIW:
Mufasa gets 15-40 Amsoil Marine and Diesel at 5k miles or less, but usually around 3500. It comes out as soon as I see black micro-particulate in the oil. It's wasteful and the oil is still very much good (and in the future Mufasa's waste oil will go into the H2 for another 4k miles).

Daytona gets Rotella T6. Daytona doesn't care. Would probably be happy with melted butter lol.

H2 got Valvoline 10-40 for first change, but will move to Amsoil 15-40 Marine and Diesel next change. Valvoline was used because it's cheap, synthetic, and was going to be a short interval with some break in time remaining on it.

All the R3 engines I've seen inside that run "motorcycle" oil, like Mobile 1 4T etc have oil staining on everything. Mufasa has zero. None. Look inside, everything is silver and once cleaned literally looks like new. From the oil or my low mile change intervals? No idea, but I know Amsoil 15-40 M&D feels best for my transmission, has extra components the 4T oils do not to protect and clean, and is only 11.25/quart here. While pricey, it's less than the premium 4Ts which don't perform as well.
Click to expand...
Is this the one? my Silverback will need an oil change soon amsoil 15-40 marine grade.jpg
 
Motul is by far some of the nicest fluids and stuff you can put on or in your vehicle regardless of how many wheels it has.
From high end brake fluid to fork oil... Imo it lasts longer and performs better at the end of its life and is not much more $.
But on the flip side my vintage bikes don't car as long as the fluid level is full.
 
That comment from @Mongler07 re his vintage bikes got me thinking.
Getting back to basics now.
When did Castor bean oil stop being used in combustion engines?

I leant a lot about oil then and now after Googling that question from a great Aussie oil company Penrite still going gangbusters since 1926. Far too good and long a story to post in entirety here, so happy .pdf reading.


chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/tech_pdfs/0The%20Rise%20&%20Fall%20of%20Castor%20Oil%20-%20NOV%202014.pdf
 

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