Steering damper kits wanted!

Yes, @Claviger 's kit is likely the way to go for the Touring. And also it is generally easier to do, with similar results, and saves money as well. I would probably go that way on my Roadster as well, if I didn't have mine yet.
But anyway, I am also happy with the radial damper.

@Joesmoe , there is one more thing that just came to my mind. I have a Road King Classic as well, and recently I bought a new windshield for it. It came with a slight "recurve" on the top, and handles the wind in a much smoother way than the stock shield. I was surprised that it gave me a lot more hi-speed confidence, just by removing most of the turbulence. Stability was improved considerably on the Autobahn, at about 90 mph travel speed.
I reckon it might do the same for the R3T, given the sheer size of its shield. And they do offer it for the Touring:
Triumph Rocket III Touring Windshield | Clearview Shields
Maybe you want to check it out.

ThingKing said:

@Joesmoe , there is one more thing that just came to my mind. I have a Road King Classic as well, and recently I bought a new windshield for it. It came with a slight "recurve" on the top, and handles the wind in a much smoother way than the stock shield. I was surprised that it gave me a lot more hi-speed confidence, just by removing most of the turbulence. Stability was improved considerably on the Autobahn, at about 90 mph travel speed.
I reckon it might do the same for the R3T, given the sheer size of its shield. And they do offer it for the Touring:
Triumph Rocket III Touring Windshield | Clearview Shields
Maybe you want to check it out.

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Check out thi site. A fine replacement shield. I've had both and it is better than Clearview.
https://www.7jurock.com/collections/rocket-iii

That Jurock is the shield on my bike now, from your earlier recommendation.

I still would like the damper -- been a concern since Hanso had his accident on a straight road.

Paul, I don't think a damper would help on the high speed weave, as the oscillations are maybe too slow?

Tripps said:

Paul, I don't think a damper would help on the high speed weave, as the oscillations are maybe too slow?

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It helps prevent them, but once started it won't do much to them.

If there is a noticeable resistance when moving the handlebar while standing still, it means there is a resistance against slow weaving.
I can recall the GPR actually does a prettty nice job at preventing weave, as well. Set to the max, the Rocket becomes like a tank. It goes straight and that's pretty much it. It even gets tricky to do tight turns, so I had to change to a lower setting before leaving the highway.

I don't know a thing about motorcycles -- much of my early professional life dealt with a phenomenon in airplanes called flutter (aeroelasticity). A well-known example of this was the first Tacoma Narrows Bridge:
The then-new fighters (F-16, F-17 (prototype), F-18) with their relatively thin wings on which the operators wanted to hang all kinds of things changing the modulus of the wings and their susceptibility to flutter on-set, represented a new challenge to the engineering community.

All systems have natural resonance, and in dynamic systems, designers try to keep the resonance out of the normal operating range.

If a given bike has a resonance that appears at some speed, changes could cause that resonance to shift - and fundamentally this is the objective of the steering damper. When the system receives a stimulus, the damper does just that -- dissipates the energy of the stimulus to prevent starting a self-reinforcing cycle we call weave and wobble.

While it would be nice to eliminate the adverse conditions altogether, a lesser and still useful benefit would be to slow the onset of a condition to within the human response time (e.g., riding with no hands, recognizing something, and having time to put the hands back on the controls in time to restore nominal operation).

The NHK linear damper is nearly invisible to the rider. There's no increase in movement resistance detectable after 2 minutes on the bike, that's how low the increased effort is during low speed bar movements.

The problem with objectively quantifying damper effects is this:

If it's working flawlessly at totally suppressing a wobble, you'll never know, because you didn't feel it.

If it's partially suppressing a wobble, it'll turn the wobble into a gentle weave or a much reduced intensity wobble. Now you don't know if the weave you're experiencing is just a weave or was it a wobble reduced to a weave?

Unless you know a spot on a road that predictably induces a wobble to A/B test, with and without, it's very hard to say positively that it's helping.

Which is to say, If it's doing its job it'll prevent it in the first place, but won't do a whole lot to a weave. A weave is generally not a high enough frequency or intensity to be controlled by a damper.

If a damper IS controlling a weave, you're damper is set too tight and is now impacting steering effort significantly.

Obviously the amount of damping would be optimally tailored to speed to get more damping at high speed and less at low speed. Thus, the big 4 have introduced computer controlled, speed based adjustment to their 1000cc sportbikes.

The Scott's and GPR do this, but they do it without a computer by using different oil paths based on fluid force within the damper, i.e. the force of the instability will trigger escalating amounts of resistance in the damper.

Dampers are NOT meant to solve weave, they're meant to solve wobble. Nearly every cruiser that's not a Vmax, Rocket, or Diavel has no need for one, and those installed are typically installed as a bandaid for poorly setup suspension or frame.

Ideally, you could go blast at 200mph, no instability. Then add a damper, as insurance, for when you do hit a road variation that causes a wobble. They should not be installed to correct an existing wobble, that should be done via suspension and steering bearing.

Weave is, in our case on our bikes, going to be caused almost universally by CG/Center of drag missmatch, tires, steering bearings, overloading, or too soft suspension on either end (read:mismatched stock suspension on one end vs aftermarket on the other end).

TLDR: Get the bike stable without one, then add the damper as insurance. The above pertains to street bikes, track weapons are a slightly different animal.

Then again - some folk seem to be able to control weaves and wobbles with no help whatsoever.