Steering damper kits wanted!

[barbagris]

the hole is not into the main pipe, but through a 1/8" gusset that has a complex compound curve.

Piccie please!.

 

[warp9.9]

These are the points to which I mounted. Though the front point isn’t ideal, it already exists and the holes are is reinforced in the lower so it’s strong. The spacer is to move the shaft up over the turn signal bracket.

The headlight frame will need mild massaging with a Dremel or die cutter to clear it so as to not hit the top of the leading edge of the heim joint, easy job.

If you’re not running anything on the forks that will interfere with a fork clamp, just use a fork clamp instead, it will be the ideal angle/fit.

This will all be different for a Touring...

ok I was wondering if you were going over the turn signal mount to that bolt hole. I was looking at that as I have a couple 100 mm stroke. I don't think that way would work if you want to keep the oem turn signals. Ill have to look at a bracket so the bearing eye mounts behind the turn signal arm. Or maybe underneath?

Im definetly curious as to where you found a deal on the GPR especially if its a V4

 

[Claviger]

The GPRs I found were from a close out on a Ducati kit. Was a screaming deal, but they went quickly as you can imagine.

 

[warp9.9]

The GPRs I found were from a close out on a Ducati kit. Was a screaming deal, but they went quickly as you can imagine.

So then its not a V4?

 

[Claviger]

Oh it was, it was just a business that was closing.

 

[Claviger]

I can only confirm this will fit the Classic/Tourer/Standard/Roadster, the Touring I need to look over and find a mounting point.

Kit:
1x M8 Nutsert:
M8 x 1.25 6H .70-3.8 Large Flange Ribbed Nutsert Steel | Fastenal
1x M8 Bolt:
Paulin M8x60 Metric Bolt 8.8 Unc | The Home Depot Canada
1x Damper:
ODM3090E NHK Steering Damper
1x Fork Clamp if you prefer to mount to it:
HyperPro Mounting parts - Fork Clamps | TECNOMOTO

The damper linked above is significantly smaller than the damper I used, which I’m going to replace with a shorter one at some point. The fork mount option may require a longer damper, if fork mounting Is suggest the ODM3000E, it will need more stroke than my solution using the front horn bracket point.

The ODM3090E (12.4” long) is 8.6 inches shorter than the ODM3190E (21” long) I have pictures of below.

Drill the nutsert hole in the center of the triangular gusset, it will provide the depth required. You’ll need to notch the headstock plastic cover to clear the assembly.

Just lifting the front of the bike, cranking the damper to tight, and trying to quickly swing the bars side to side I can feel it limiting travel speed. When fully loose, I cannot even tell the damper is present, huge range of adjustability on the NHKs.

 

[barbagris]

Fork Clamps - no 59mm listed, Rob. USD owners may well be best suited using the mounting point you used.

Kit:

 

[ThingKing]

It's not a straight bolt on; a single hole need be drilled to fit the damper, however, the hole is not into the main pipe, but through a 1/8" gusset that has a complex compound curve. I would and am betting my life on it, that a single hole there filled with a nutsert and bolt will do nothing to compromise the strength of the headstock area.

Reading @Claviger 's post, I do get a little concerned. This is the way I had it done last week. But if there were any signs of weakness in the headstock area, I would have it reinforced again. Anyway, the holes are very small. Probably better to have two small holes than one big one up there. I will keep an eye on it though.

I have not yet tried it out on the streets, so I will post my reflections on it after a highway ride in the near future.

 

[Claviger]

Nice solution. I was correct, there has been no apparent issue with my mounting point, and the damper definitely works. The hole made is filled with a nutsert and bolt in it, so it's not like it's an open hole. I like the GPR damper, I'm sure your going to love it!

Your mount solution is very similar to what I envisioned in my head a year or two ago when I was considering a GPR. I'm glad it fit there both for your sake and enjoyment and because I was right, the GPR is easier to fit than the Scotts because of the size. Lack of machine shop tools really makes it difficult to do things like that.

EDIT: One last point, some have asked if the damper gets hot near the exhaust. In short, no, not really even warm to the touch.

EDIT 2: The damper is not even noticed in normal riding or hooning through twisties, but it IS noticed at very high speed when hitting bumps or road irregularities. I absolutely recommend it if you've the time and about $150 to spend on this, even if you're not a super fast rider.
-A good example is when changing lanes where the road is being repaired and there's a lip at the lane edge. Normally when hitting them on any non-damper bike, you'll feel a little wobble that'll settle after a second or two, with the damper is settles much much quicker.
-Another good example would be when traveling over 120 or so, hitting a big bump that will upset the bike, normally it'll waggle a little, with the damper it'll just give a gentle weave once or twice and calm down.

 

[Joesmoe]

@ThingKing I love what you've done there.

I would love to follow in your footsteps.

I have a Touring, with Rivco risers installed.

Your thoughts most appreciated.

I just looked at my bike -- don't see how to fit the NHK damper as it would appear intersect the fuel tank ?

And the Touring steering head has a big bolt right in the middle where a GPR damper would rest.

And for the GPR, it would appear the needed bracket on the frame side would have to clear or cause modified the cover for the ignition switch (not an issue for me as I have @DEcosse keyless.