Hellboy its not hard to pull the pan the first time. You might even get away with not changing the gasket. But if you have to add another gasket then use Hylomar gasket sealant. It does not harden so you will be able to re-use it many times.I use it on all my gaskets verses any permatex type sealant except when it comes to installing piston liners.
Hellboy its not hard to pull the pan the first time. You might even get away with not changing the gasket. But if you have to add another gasket then use Hylomar gasket sealant. It does not harden so you will be able to re-use it many times.I use it on all my gaskets verses any permatex type sealant except when it comes to installing piston liners.
Wouldn't it be nice if there was a story written about this thread and how much help has been freely forthcoming from forum members instead of revelations about Rockets not being V twins.
Not belittling the contributions from others and the silent support and positive vibes from everyone, @Rocket Scientist and @warp9.9 , you guys rock.
I am with you 100% on that I would have NOT attempted to take the bike literally apart to replace the bearings round the output shaft if I did not get the expertise of those who know the bike inside out and willing to give advice whenever I needed it . now I will remember this event and I still have to fix the throttle cables in the bracket ( I broke the throttle tube on the handlebar when I pulled on the cable to strongly) the little boss just snapped ordered a new one another 10 days of wait but that is all right I still have to figure out the spare connectors and odd screw
interestingly here is a piece of trivia I smeared the bevel box and the drive shaft with moly 60 as I was told $25 for that tub BTW the tub is sized like a small toothpaste tube and guess what when opened the tub is half empty !! some people are making huge money there . but I disgress so I have all that good grease and the swing arm is mounted now the drive shaft rests on the bottom of the hollow swing arm tube and that bevel box aint going past the edge of the drive shaft no matter what I dod so I stuck a small chunk of butter under the shaft and as I pushed the bevel box in it just pushed the butter further up the housing meshing with the drive and mixed with moly 60 for that good lube job.
Not sure but usually the first part of the bearing that goes is the cage which ends up in the rear screen area of the sump pan. I have been looking at the spare block I have and the only way I can see the bearing getting oiled is from two areas of migration when the old style of bearings are installed. On is on the output bearing of the transmission and on to the helical gear (driver) Which is why the bearings have steel seals which do not hold oil entirely. The other is on the end of the out put drive which is also in the same bearing well as the input shaft of the transmission and originally had a steel seal in which oil migrated out and on to the helical gear (driven) and my bet is the design engineer thought there would be enough migration to keep the gears lubricated and the rear out put bearing. The only other oil passage in the area is through the hole in the torsional damper shaft the hole travels far enough to reach the bearings but the only lubrication holes coming off the main path at 90 degrees is four of them just past the helical gear and before the the helical gear and then a little lower on the damper sleeve/ spline area of the shaft. So the only way I can the rear bearing is being lubricated at all is by oil migration.
hope this helps
I am with you 100% on that I would have NOT attempted to take the bike literally apart to replace the bearings round the output shaft if I did not get the expertise of those who know the bike inside out and willing to give advice whenever I needed it . now I will remember this event and I still have to fix the throttle cables in the bracket ( I broke the throttle tube on the handlebar when I pulled on the cable to strongly) the little boss just snapped ordered a new one another 10 days of wait but that is all right I still have to figure out the spare connectors and odd screw
interestingly here is a piece of trivia I smeared the bevel box and the drive shaft with moly 60 as I was told $25 for that tub BTW the tub is sized like a small toothpaste tube and guess what when opened the tub is half empty !! some people are making huge money there . but I disgress so I have all that good grease and the swing arm is mounted now the drive shaft rests on the bottom of the hollow swing arm tube and that bevel box aint going past the edge of the drive shaft no matter what I dod so I stuck a small chunk of butter under the shaft and as I pushed the bevel box in it just pushed the butter further up the housing meshing with the drive and mixed with moly 60 for that good lube job.
Patrick, there is two ways to get the shaft in the differential but first make sure the spring is in the end of it.The way I do it is push the differential into the shaft until it contacts it then keep the pressure on it while rotating the differential and she will pick up and go in. Another way I have hear is to put the shaft up on a small piece of ice as it will melt and go away after you get her installed. It sounds like it would work but I always use the first method and I pull mine to lubricate it twice a riding season. Every season !!!!!
Patrick, there is two ways to get the shaft in the differential but first make sure the spring is in the end of it.The way I do it is push the differential into the shaft until it contacts it then keep the pressure on it while rotating the differential and she will pick up and go in. Another way I have hear is to put the shaft up on a small piece of ice as it will melt and go away after you get her installed. It sounds like it would work but I always use the first method and I pull mine to lubricate it twice a riding season. Every season !!!!!
well I tried the first method but that bevel box is too heavy to manipulate you used ice, I used a tiny chunk of frozen butter unsalted naturally. BTW where do I find the stepper motor mentioned earlier where possibly the loose connector which comes out of the main harness supposedly connect.
so far I only have two small spare screws with unaccounted place to put them in I would say not so bad so far. rear wheel is back in I had the jardine pipes re powder coated everything SHOULD be ready for the 15 for my trip
I have to wait for the throttle tube at the handlebar (10 days) I busted the plastic boss of the return cable when trying to fix the metal piece holding the two 90 degres tube going to the throttle wheel at the front of throttle body I pulled and pulled too hard .c'est la vie! I put new anti freeze fresh mobil one oil new oil filter and the 21 bolts under the pan .what an experience !!
thanks.. I am slowly buttoning her up , I have one loose electric connector that I have not found where is its match(picture 1239 zoom in to check what it is) and my rad covers are falling apart ,the cracks are everywhere old plastic I guess (picture 1240) will try an epoxy solution tomorrow. considering each part is about $75 ,
Did you find the place for the electrical connection yet?. It looks like it should fit in a recess located inside of the left (gearshift) side of the motor. Feel around underneath with your finger. It is held in with one 6mm bolt.