transmission noise!!

Below is the throttle bodies hanging from the handle bars like I explained



below is my fingers pointing at the two nuts one on each throttle tube you loosen. there is not much thread but it is enough and if you do not rotate the bottom nuts you will not lose your cable adjustment. Before you loosen these rotate the throttle body shaft to open the throttle this will allow you to remover the pull side cable once it is out of the pin hole you will be able to slip the tube off the bracket without moving the bottom nut. Once it is off you will have plenty of slack to pull the other cable and remove the tube.



before you remove the cables if thats what you decide to do. mark the outer cable with a cable tie like below and you will never have to remove the cable tie it will always be on there and out of your way.



Hope this helps/ remember if you take your time and remove the cable you will not have to un-wire the injectors or unhook the fuel line from you tank.

Its your call as they are both easily done just one has less to take off and less to put back on.
 
I never disturbed my throttle cables. Just removed the 2 10mm headed bolts, loosened the clamps on the rubber boots, worked the throttle bodies out of the boots, lifted them up out of the way and tied them to the frame. Looks like I used a piece of wire to hold them up. In the below pic they are raised enough to be out of the way. You can see the red rags stuffed in the intakes to keep skita out of there. The arrow is pointing to the gear position sensor and is not important, the picture was used in another thread.
 
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warp9.9 said:
Hey Pat while I am at it what ddi you do with the spring and little pin that contacts the gear position sensor? You do not want to miss place it or allow it to shoot out on th eground!!
Click to expand...
I have the pin and spring tucked away stuck in masking tape no way I loose them anytime soon and while I am doing this I have some repairs done on the house by some tradesmen since I sold the place and the realtor of the buyer is sticking me with everything in the book to make my life miserable I cut her commission down so she pulls every trick and some, like she asked for the original brochure about the living room windows which were installed 15 years ago hello! who keep that what a farce so rettreating t o the garage is actually therapy I am going to read fred stuff several time to clearly understand how to remove the throttle body cause I am not sure yet what keep the entire system attached to the intake .
 

show me exactly were are those two 10 mm headed bolts I have been looking at the whole thing and cannot see I do not want to move the throttle cables just move the throttle bodies like you did

then I gather at the base of each intake tube there is a clamp to be loosen that I will find but a pic of the two 10 mm bolts would be worth a thousand words. that is all I need to pull the engine down enough to free the outputshaft and take it to the shop where they can press new bearing into place .
 
I'm going to use the pic Scott already posted. If your on the left side of the bike facing it, where the bolt goes in this picture will be on the top left side of the throttle bodies. Near where the throttle cables hook in. You'll have to remove a little black plastic cover that keeps the grime out of the throttle cable bell crank. The bolt is difficult to see.


This is the cover, it's held on by (2) 8mm headed bolts.



The other one is in plain site.



The allen head screws in the rubber boot clamps are challenging to get to, especially the center one. Took me about 20 minutes to get the center one loose. I have a lot of patience. It comes in handy. The throttle bodies don't come out of the boots real easy either. You have to carefully pry them out. Take your time and be careful what you pry on. Lots of VERY delicate components in that area !
 
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thanks Fred now I have a couple more pictures of the Throttle Body stuff stored for the next guy. I have not seen the cable cover plate for over 40,000 miles. I took it off when I added the blower
Oh and Pat like I said either way you can do it . depending on what I am doing is what denotes which way I proceed. If I were to do it this way I would remove the cables just because its less screws and hardware along with less of a pain in the arse because you do not have to deal with the hose clamps. A long ball end allen wrench is the best for them it does take a little while fussing with the center one. There is one way but I figure why confuse you. When you remove the throttle cable cover above let me know why you do not want to remove the cables verses all the other crap. This way I can consider dropping it from my pointers. I think you find its the easiest and fastest way. I will see if I can get my daughter to film me removing them tonight so you can see how darn easy it is.
 
Hi Scott ! Are you saying if you remove the throttle cables you can just leave the throttle bodies in place when you drop the engine ?
 
Rocket Scientist said:
Hi Scott ! Are you saying if you remove the throttle cables you can just leave the throttle bodies in place when you drop the engine ?
Click to expand...
Yes from the looks of it I would say it highly possible. no other cable would be in the way and if so the only ones woudl be the primary and secondary TPS and thermo unit and stepper motor but it depend they might ride down with the engien. Oh and the fan cable but then he is removing the radiator so that will be unplugged anyway.
 

ok throttle cables have been removed from the wheel engine is moving down BUT NOW i HAVE ANOTHER MAJOR PROBLEM two days ago i unbolted the outputshaft and it slid out as far as the frame would allow about an inch just to look so I pushed it back inside and put on two bolts to hold it now I unbolted it and the cover and shaft assembly are only sliding out about 3/4 of an inch there is a definite something in there holding the assembly . a metal to metal sound and a definite stop at the 3/4 inch I turne the shaft no problem but it is a definitite clanging noise what could stop the whole thing to slide out?
 
I hate to say this, but did you double check to make sure all the bolts are out ? Does it go back in easy ? It looks like the locating flange on the cover has cleared. The only thing that should be holding it now would be the inner bearing. Have you tried wiggling it up and down and round and round (come on kids sing along !). The inner bearings outer race is a semi pressed fit into the tranny housing. It may require some gentle coaxing. My inner bearing had come completely apart so my damper practically fell out. I had to use a bearing puller to get the outer race out of the tranny case after the damper was out of the way.
 
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