Suddenly dead

[skydog1000]

Ken @DEcosse , can you run your keyless without fixing the ignition switch? I had someone call me stuck on the road. Showed him how to hot wire it so he could get home. Was hoping to give hime more then just the ignition switch change. It is a 06 old wire connectors so no updated harness. No Head light relay by anyone.

If you get the DEcosse wireless controller you no longer need a ignition switch

 

[barbagris]

You said fuse "looks" good. I'd try a new fuse to be sure.

Me too - but the switch thing sounds more and more likely. I think I will have to have speaks with Mr @DEcosse about said box before I am FORCED to.

 

[barbagris]

check Fuse #2
If that fuse is definitely good then it pretty much has to be key-switch - at key-switch and beyond, the ignition and headlights are separate circuits, so only common factors to both are that Fuse and the switch itself.
Since you have turns and brake lights that validates that Main Fuse (11) must be good and those two circuits are on a separate key-switch pole to the lights/ignition

 

[DEcosse]

Ken @DEcosse , can you run your keyless without fixing the ignition switch? ...

Yes, the switch just unplugs from the main harness and the Key-Less plugs in, in its place. If the switch is left mechanically in place (but disconnected electrically) it can still retain the fork locking function if desired. (My switch is removed completely - I use a disc lock for overnight parking when on road trip)

If replacing (or repairing) an ignition switch, then additionally a headlight-bypass relay kit should be employed to prevent recurrence of the original problem - replacing the switch ALONE is only a temporary repair.
The KeyLess system does not have the failure mechanism the switch experiences - a bypass kit is not necessary, but can be added at the users choice (or left in place if they already have one).
With either switching device, the headlight relay kit will give a bit of headlight performance improvement on a classic with incandescent headlights (as well as preventing further damage to the mechanical switch if retained); I would instead suggest putting the money saved on a headlight relay kit to some good LED replacements - a headlight relay kit will make zero difference to performance on those - they will also reduce the current by close to half (putting more in line with the Touring model with only one incandescent headlight and those rarely fail)
The absolute big no-no is to run high-wattage incandescents - that will make accelerate failure of the key-switch.

It is a 06 old wire connectors so no updated harness.

Kits are built to purpose with the appropriate model/year connector (I have come across a few with a late model connector that was spliced in to main harness, but these are relatively rare)

You could pull the switch and repair it. Has been done many times especially if a wire just needs to be re soldered to it. The tricky part is getting the switch out.

This is indeed often repairable - the wire detaches from the wiper plate - because of poor connectivity, the soldered joint heats up and eventually lets go (or fractures with tension/vibration) - as long as the solder pad on the wiper plate has not been compromised the wire can be resoldered into the pad. As @Gregger says, removing the switch would be the most time-consuming part of the process - I would suggest not actually removing the switch but remove the Top Triple Clamp and invert to access the electrical part of the switch - remove the bottom access cover.
And again, after a repair take some other remedial action to prevent further recurrance (relay kit or LEDs)

Was hoping to give him more then just the ignition switch change.

Anyone who wishes to convert to KeyLess should only do so for its own merits (it will of course eliminate any future problems in regard key-switch failure) - in terms of a repair option, the advantage would be (as well the benefits of the Keyless itself) that it is essentially a plug n play option that most anyone can do - replacing the key-switch requires a lot more work (the aforementioned old switch removal process). Plus doesn't need the added cost of the ByPass Relay kit. But frankly, in all honesty, it's a not an inexpensive option for repair.

 

[warp9.9]

Yes, the switch just unplugs from the main harness and the Key-Less plugs in, in its place. If the switch is left mechanically in place (but disconnected electrically) it can still retain the fork locking function if desired. (My switch is removed completely - I use a disc lock for overnight parking when on road trip)

If replacing (or repairing) an ignition switch, then additionally a headlight-bypass relay kit should be employed to prevent recurrence of the original problem - replacing the switch ALONE is only a temporary repair.
The KeyLess system does not have the failure mechanism the switch experiences - a bypass kit is not necessary, but can be added at the users choice (or left in place if they already have one).
With either switching device, the headlight relay kit will give a bit of headlight performance improvement on a classic with incandescent headlights (as well as preventing further damage to the mechanical switch if retained); I would instead suggest putting the money saved on a headlight relay kit to some good LED replacements - a headlight relay kit will make zero difference to performance on those - they will also reduce the current by close to half (putting more in line with the Touring model with only one incandescent headlight and those rarely fail)
The absolute big no-no is to run high-wattage incandescents - that will make accelerate failure of the key-switch.


Kits are built to purpose with the appropriate model/year connector (I have come across a few with a late model connector that was spliced in to main harness, but these are relatively rare)

This is indeed often repairable - the wire detaches from the wiper plate - because of poor connectivity, the soldered joint heats up and eventually lets go (or fractures with tension/vibration) - as long as the solder pad on the wiper plate has not been compromised the wire can be resoldered into the pad. As @Gregger says, removing the switch would be the most time-consuming part of the process - I would suggest not actually removing the switch but remove the Top Triple Clamp and invert to access the electrical part of the switch - remove the bottom access cover.
And again, after a repair take some other remedial action to prevent further recurrance (relay kit or LEDs)



Anyone who wishes to convert to KeyLess should only do so for its own merits (it will of course eliminate any future problems in regard key-switch failure) - in terms of a repair option, the advantage would be (as well the benefits of the Keyless itself) that it is essentially a plug n play option that most anyone can do - replacing the key-switch requires a lot more work (the aforementioned old switch removal process). Plus doesn't need the added cost of the ByPass Relay kit. But frankly, in all honesty, it's a not an inexpensive option for repair.

great I just wanted to be able to tell him his options if he asked otherwise I think he is dealer bound. Seems to be a smart feller to bad he does join a site and learn. Anyway now I won't be giving him any false information. Thanks for your time and knowledge!!!

 

[DEcosse]

I just noticed this is a 2009 Classic - that should have the NEW type connectors ......
Of the few failures I have seen associated with TOURING models with this same connector, the failure has actually been at the connector itself (I believe due to an assembly issue)
(While Roadsters also use this connector, there is very little current through it, vs a Toruing or a late model classic)
So the first thing I would do is disconnect the connector (it will look like the grey one in the image I posted above), located under tank behind the steering head - inspect the terminals on BOTH male & female for any sign of burning/arcing.

 

[barbagris]

I would instead suggest putting the money saved on a headlight relay kit to some good LED replacements - a headlight relay kit will make zero difference to performance on those - they will also reduce the current by close to half (putting more in line with the Touring model with only one incandescent headlight and those rarely fail)

In general - I concur. The LEDS I have seen, usually draw about 2 or 3 amps. BUT the Adaptives draw a fair whack if you're riding full beam and have the GEN2 lights. Even the Gen1 draw close to 5Amps each.

 

[TRath]

Finally got the chance to take a look under the tank. It's got the late-model connectors and showed no sign of burning or scoring. Couldn't find any loos or broken wires (but didn't crack past the tamper-proof seals on the tumbler).
Gave everything a very thorough and technical wiggling and now it's firing again. Just not sure I trust it enough to go anywhere.

 

[Gregger]

If you just wiggled the wires and things are working now.... it isn't fixed! I wouldn't take a chance riding it until the gremlin is found.

 

[mr hunt]

I had the same symptoms a while back. I found The white ignition wire shorting on the headstock just behind the headlight. The heat from the light made the insulation brittle and a couple of wires ended up exposed. Re-insulated and cable tied the loom back from the light. No more dramas.