RAMAIR FILTER CHANGE OUT

[skydog1000]

WHAT! You need a British Made Intake on a British bike! Where do you put your IAT so it does not get HEATSOAKED and retard your timing and wipe out the HP?

At least the RAMAIR has the IAT breakout and embeds it directly into the air coming into the throttle bodies.....

Just Curious on the IAT location with the RU2780s......

Just need to turn them a little side ways . PS thank you Jim again for the 2780 filters

 

[xlr8tion]

Just need to turn them a little side ways . PS thank you Jim again for the 2780 filters

So wheres the IAT....Once you pulled it out of the airbox you just exposed it to massive HEATSOAK if you do get into some ambient airflow away from the Cylinder head.

Thanks..G

 

[Mark Dunn]

Mark I believe I got the idea from you! If you use the insulation they use on HVAC suction lines it will be pliable rather than the frost king foam insulation.....Send me a conversation on your set up as I am going to copy your idea....I remember you are one smart mofo

Cheers...G

Thanks, I'll look into The HVAC insulation.
The first photo below shows the AFR+ and an Eastern Beaver PC8 fuse box mounted in the airbox. I bent a 1/16" x 1" piece of aluminum into a 'U' shape and used Velcro to mount both items to it.

Regarding me being a smart mofo, I think you definitely have me confused with someone else.

Hope this helps,
Mark.

 

[1olbull]

So wheres the IAT....Once you pulled it out of the airbox you just exposed it to massive HEATSOAK if you do get into some ambient airflow away from the Cylinder head.
Thanks..G

I be NO guru, but I assume you are speaking of the "Air Temp Sensor"
From Bike Bandit - 26: SENSOR, AIR TEMPERATURE - 1389050 T1292004 1 $44.20 $44.20
What I did was a small air filter is placed on this and remains under the fuel tank in the RU2780 install.
When I installed the Ram Air the filter was removed and it fit nicely into the plenum.
Some have drilled holes into their K&Ns and placed the Air Temp Sensor into them.

 

[xlr8tion]

I be NO guru, but I assume you are speaking of the "Air Temp Sensor"
From Bike Bandit - 26: SENSOR, AIR TEMPERATURE - 1389050 T1292004 1 $44.20 $44.20
What I did was a small air filter is placed on this and remains under the fuel tank in the RU2780 install.
When I installed the Ram Air the filter was removed and it fit nicely into the plenum.
Some have drilled holes into their K&Ns and placed the Air Temp Sensor into them.

Here is the deal....With the stock setup the Intake Air Temp(IAT) was plugged into the that huge plenum as it provide an excellent insulator AGAINST HEATSOAK coming from the Cylinder Heat. When you heat soak any IAT it retards the timing on the bike and robs HP from the engine. This is why the RAMAI uses a "breakout"(extension) for the IAT to move it so it can be embedded into the RAMAIR unit itself. Installing it into the RU2780s is a great idea as compared to letting it sit under the tank as Clav has noted you lose Torque with the RAMAIR based on the unique OEM airbox. You do not want to lose HP with a HEATSOAK as you will lose TORQUE as well....This was a known problem with 6.0 liter GTO's that used a LS@ with a combined MAF/IAT....Most of us that owned them used a "Casper IAT Breakout" which deactivated the GM IAT combined in the MAF unit and used a high quality thermistor that was moved either into a CAI via a break out cable or as I did-remove a fog light and connect a duct to it and place the IAT in that tube so that the IAT has ambient air rushing by, Some used CAI(VOLANT) with an intake scoop facing down and into the airstream passing through the radiator but moving that IAT netted me 40HP on the dyno with that corvette motor.

Mark...Nice Job...How does she run....Any butt dyno reports for us?

Cheers...G

 

[Tal]

I kept mine under the OEM chrome Bearclaw.

WHAT! You need a British Made Intake on a British bike! Where do you put your IAT so it does not get HEATSOAKED and retard your timing and wipe out the HP?

At least the RAMAIR has the IAT breakout and embeds it directly into the air coming into the throttle bodies.....

Just Curious on the IAT location with the RU2780s......

My IAT is between 2 and 3 pods with a small filter over it and cable tied there...the air temp there is the same as what is going through the pods...bike goes well...

 

[Mark Dunn]

Mark...Nice Job...How does she run....Any butt dyno reports for us?

Cheers...G

After getting used to how the switchpoints effect the overall running and performance I have the big girl running smooth and peppy. I don't normally ride over 90mph (some roads in TX have an 85mph limit) but the extra acceleration available at those speeds/revs has certainly put temptation in my path a few times.

The only slight problem I had was that the AFR was rather too rich (12:1) at idle and the Dobeck does not try to change the very bottom of the rev range. I think it's the same for Dynojet PCs too, - something to do with emissions laws. I'm fairly sure that the high AFR at idle is a result of my D&D slip-ons (with standard Triumph header) and the Ramair. I'm using '20050DynoFinalMap_WithPods_And_IgnRetard.hex' as a base map and have taken some fuel out to compensate for the idle problem. I don't have it absolutely perfect yet but it's very close. When at temperature the idle AFR is now around 13.5:1. Brent at Dobeck (senior tech) is looking into whether Triumph may have made some firmware changes to the ECU between 2006 and 2009. My R3 is a 2009 but IdahoRedRocket's (which was the development mule for the R3's AFR+) is a 2006. Also, Brent told me that Dobeck's O2 bypass plug aims for an AFR of 13:1.

I'll keep the thread updated if I learn more.

Mark

 

[xlr8tion]

After getting used to how the switchpoints effect the overall running and performance I have the big girl running smooth and peppy. I don't normally ride over 90mph (some roads in TX have an 85mph limit) but the extra acceleration available at those speeds/revs has certainly put temptation in my path a few times.

The only slight problem I had was that the AFR was rather too rich (12:1) at idle and the Dobeck does not try to change the very bottom of the rev range. I think it's the same for Dynojet PCs too, - something to do with emissions laws. I'm fairly sure that the high AFR at idle is a result of my D&D slip-ons (with standard Triumph header) and the Ramair. I'm using '20050DynoFinalMap_WithPods_And_IgnRetard.hex' as a base map and have taken some fuel out to compensate for the idle problem. I don't have it absolutely perfect yet but it's very close. When at temperature the idle AFR is now around 13.5:1. Brent at Dobeck (senior tech) is looking into whether Triumph may have made some firmware changes to the ECU between 2006 and 2009. My R3 is a 2009 but IdahoRedRocket's (which was the development mule for the R3's AFR+) is a 2006. Also, Brent told me that Dobeck's O2 bypass plug aims for an AFR of 13:1.

I'll keep the thread updated if I learn more.

Mark

Mark...

Thats great news! Did you feel any low end torque loss? Clav had said the RAMAIR swap from OEM knocked 27ftlbs of Torque off? Maybe the AFR+ compensated for the lean condition of the extra flow?

I am putting an Oz Claw on mine and leaving the Cat and the stock exhaust as I am moving to a State that has emissions testing.

Really happy to hear it worked out for you...How tight did you go on the throttle body clamps without snapping the Ramair?

Thanks and keep us informed!

Cheers...G

PS..BTW..Did you handlebar mount the Gauge or did you mount it to your windscreen..Pics please!

 

[Mark Dunn]

Mark...

Thats great news! Did you feel any low end torque loss? Clav had said the RAMAIR swap from OEM knocked 27ftlbs of Torque off? Maybe the AFR+ compensated for the lean condition of the extra flow?

I am putting an Oz Claw on mine and leaving the Cat and the stock exhaust as I am moving to a State that has emissions testing.

Really happy to hear it worked out for you...How tight did you go on the throttle body clamps without snapping the Ramair?

Thanks and keep us informed!

Cheers...G

PS..BTW..Did you handlebar mount the Gauge or did you mount it to your windscreen..Pics please!

I fitted the D&D slip-ons before the Ramair and AFR+ and there was a substantial increase in low end torque. More torque throughout the rev range but the low end really showed it. I fitted the Ramair and AFR+ at the same time and the torque increased again to an extent, but this time more noticeable in the midrange. It's a pity you can't remove the cat.

I secured the Ramair with zip ties as these are far easier to keep in position as you tighten them. The supplied clamps seem to ride up (or down) as they're tightened making it difficult to assess if they're in the correct position.

I mounted the AFR+ gauge with a handlebar mount purchased through Dobeck.

Good luck with your install
Mark

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

"It's a pity you can't remove the cat."

Hi Mark, The D&D slip-ons should have eliminated the cat. What are you referring to ?


Yes you can delete the cat on the standard bikes. Look up rocket 3 cat eliminators for 3 pipe standard or TORs exhaust pipes.

Triumph cat eliminator pipe for 3 pipe exhaust.