@DodahMan You need to do some soul searching, and decide what you want. I doubt you are racing (track or drag), so your internal measure is all that matters -- learning enough to temper your expectations, then understanding your pocket book tolerance for how far you want to go, just because you can.

One of the 'benefits' of an oversized motor -- and by the way, this thinking dominated the US car industry for the decade or so 1963 - 1973 -- big motors, forgiving in their manufacture, not too performing, and forgiving in their maintenance. And 99% of people (as today) knew only where the fuel went and the key.

Our Rocket - an operative saying is, "There is no replacement for displacement" -- has great potential.

The least expensive Formula One team spends $10M in a season.

Where do you want to go, and where is your reach with which you can be happy -- you, and you alone, noone else.
 
You are trying to over simplify an incredibly complex variable set.

You've been a member here a long time, and in that time, there have been many nuggets that contribute to our collective knowledge of how our motors work and the effects and tradeoffs of various actions.

There is no free lunch.

A number of the mods made here improve power at the expense of more fuel used. A few mods made here use the fuel more efficiently, thus gaining both power and range. All of these are far more expensive than purchasing TuneECU and the Lonelec cable and loading a de-restricted map.

Higher efficiency can *only* come from a change in the thermodynamic flow, and this necessarily involves more stress. Whether the added stress becomes a factor in the number of miles you are likely to ride, depends.

You stated you don't want to change anything except the mapping to de-restrict. This is only meaningful in the context of the Roadster / Touring differential, and so the link to the map I offered, does that.

This is easily installed, and in the process, you save off your stock map. Say you run through two tank fulls of fuel with the new map, and don't like it. Easy peazy hook up TuneECU and reverse it.

Anything else is going to cost - more.
 
I second what Paul is saying.

I installed the R3T_stock_or_slip-on.hex for Touring about a year after getting my Touring. Everything was stock except an under seat K&N I swapped for the OEM filter. Did not notice a huge difference, to tell the truth, but was happier with it. I did not notice much of a performance improvement, I may have been expecting too much, and gas mileage was not hugely affected.

Later:
I put on TORS for the sound. A bit deeper and louder.
I was going to go with K&N Triple filters for the look. But ultimately ended up with RamAir, which is hidden under the brearclaw, anyway.
RamAir got rid of all the underseat plumbing, and with that was much easier to balance the throttle bodies. (TuneECU helps with that.)

When I got the TORS and RamAir I loaded the Nels Tune (NELS-TORS_RAMAIR-K&N.hex/Nels Tune TORS RamAir Final.hex) for the Touring. The top end is where I can tell where most of the difference is. I get from 80 to 110 MPH before I can let go of the throttle.:D

Study up on the TuneECU instructions. Be sure to save your current map before you make any changes. And you should be good.
 
You are trying to over simplify an incredibly complex variable set.

You've been a member here a long time, and in that time, there have been many nuggets that contribute to our collective knowledge of how our motors work and the effects and tradeoffs of various actions.

There is no free lunch.

A number of the mods made here improve power at the expense of more fuel used. A few mods made here use the fuel more efficiently, thus gaining both power and range. All of these are far more expensive than purchasing TuneECU and the Lonelec cable and loading a de-restricted map.

Higher efficiency can *only* come from a change in the thermodynamic flow, and this necessarily involves more stress. Whether the added stress becomes a factor in the number of miles you are likely to ride, depends.

You stated you don't want to change anything except the mapping to de-restrict. This is only meaningful in the context of the Roadster / Touring differential, and so the link to the map I offered, does that.

This is easily installed, and in the process, you save off your stock map. Say you run through two tank fulls of fuel with the new map, and don't like it. Easy peazy hook up TuneECU and reverse it.

Anything else is going to cost - more.
Did you do a derestricting tune?
 
If I keep the stock pipe and install a crossover thus cutting restriction, what tune would YOU recommend? Basically, I just want to start slow and see how things go. I have the cable and am ready to play. I just don't want to blow anything up. Lol.
Not sure how the tune I use will work with oem pipes, save your tune and try a deristricted tune, if it’s on tune ecu it’s probably gonna be safe to try I would think but others will chime in if I’m wrong about this
 
If I keep the stock pipe and install a crossover thus cutting restriction, what tune would YOU recommend? Basically, I just want to start slow and see how things go. I have the cable and am ready to play. I just don't want to blow anything up. Lol.

On a touring, the cats are inside the stock pipes. A crossover will probably not do too much.
Paul Bryant can get you on the right track. That is right down his alley.
 
I just read through this thread and must have missed something with respect to installing the PowerCommander V. I am getting ready to install a D&D exhaust to go with my RamAir intake. I have the Viking crossover pipe as well. I want to use the PowerCommander V with this setup. I only have the 12-min tune right now for the RamAir.

Do I need to install a different fuel map on the ECU prior to using the PowerCommander V or can I install and use it as is?

I plan on having the PowerCommander tuned for my bike at some point this winter or in the Spring.
 
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