Parasitic Drain, 2014 Rocket III Touring - Mystery: Multimeter shows zero draw with the key out

[Chullera]

Note for @mully95 & @Kevin frazier (& anyone others who have DEcosse KeyLess system) please note that there IS a standing drain with that system - there has to be so the RFID module can 'poll' for the presence of the remote. But it should not kill the battery in couple of weeks (my relatively small LiFe battery in my Daytona needs to be recharged every couple of weeks if not ridden, but the capacity of an RIII Lead-acid battery will exceed this many times over). If you ride fairly often (at least once per week) then there should not be any need to have a trickle charge to maintain it, although it is good insurance to do so.

For @Chullera - I don't believe you have my keyless (didn't mention any accessories other than your USB and you would certainly detect a draw if it were installed)
If you truly cannot measure any drain current with key-off, then the battery must be self-discharging. It seems odd that you have experienced this with multiple batteries, however it seems to be the case, at least on the data supplied. There is nothing OEM that draws any current with key-off other than a tiny, tiny amount to maintain the Trip Memory in the instruments.
I would however have expected the USB to draw something even with no device connected (although the difference with say a phone for example would be quite dramatic, as much as several amps)
Check the condition of your battery to begin with - charge your battery, then complete a substantial ride, whereby you believe the battery to reasonably well-charged.
After return, turn on the Ignition (and thereby also the headlight) - what is the voltage you read across the battery in this condition? And just as importantly, how quickly is it dropping over the course of say 1 minute? That will give you a good indication of the general state of charge of your battery. With a single headlight, this should certainly be at least in the low 12's and maintaining with only a quite slow rate of voltage drop. (for twin H4 headlight models, at least high 11's is probably still acceptable)
If below this threshold and dropping at a fair clip, then your battery fundamentally has a problem.

Battery tests to 570CCA out of the original 630CCA. Voltage at 13.5 or so. Even when starting it does not drop below the limit. Charging system also tests fine and exceeds what is consumed by the lights/accessories. This machine has already killed multiple batteries.... all go through exactly the same cycle. Makes no difference whether a brand new battery is installed or not. The lead acid ones would discharge so fully that they could not be charged back up again. Went through 3 of those very quickly. (Buy, and throw out a couple of months later) The EarthX ones have a protective circuit which shuts it off when it gets too low. That has been a help.

 

[Chullera]

Battery tests to 570CCA out of the original 630CCA. Voltage at 13.5 or so. Even when starting it does not drop below the limit. Charging system also tests fine and exceeds what is consumed by the lights/accessories. This machine has already killed multiple batteries.... all go through exactly the same cycle. Makes no difference whether a brand new battery is installed or not. The lead acid ones would discharge so fully that they could not be charged back up again. Went through 3 of those very quickly. (Buy, and throw out a couple of months later) The EarthX ones have a protective circuit which shuts it off when it gets too low. That has been a help.

FYI, no keyles remote or alarm system

 

[Ygransom]

That is another excellent idea. Cheers. Will test that out. (15 minute beer break) Might I say to everybody on this forum, thank you for all the great feedback!

Only 15 Minutes - That's a taste not a break.

 

[DEcosse]

However, it there is a burned out connection there, it could cause an intermittent drain... when moist/wet.

It's not that it causes a drain, it creates a voltage drop and that means the full battery voltage is not applied to the system; it also limits the charging voltage/current
Again, not saying it definitively IS that issue, just something to check as is not uncommon.

 

[Chullera]

That is another excellent idea. Cheers. Will test that out. (15 minute beer break) Might I say to everybody on this forum, thank you for all the great feedback!

I tried this out... I left the bike parked for 3 days, did not introduce the key and used my multimeter to test to see if there was any draw at all. Still zero. Yet, the battery needed a recharge... I am still stumped. Tested the relays... clicking away fine.

 

[Bigjaype]

Next step is to make sure the battery is fully charged, measure the voltage then disconnect and let stand for a few days again, then measure the voltage again.
If your multimeter shows no current drain, even no milliamps ( I would expect to see between 30 and 100 milliamps at least to supply alarm and clock whilst ignition key is off and key removed, hence the use of a battery tender for prolonged periods of no use) I would ensure your meter has the capability to measure below 100 milliamps.
Most multimeters have 2 fuses for the protection of the current measuring circuits. Usually a 10 amp fuse and a 500mA fuse. Ensure that the small fuse isn't blown.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Ensure that the small fuse isn't blown.

This

 

[Chullera]

One other thought .........
Have you actually measured the voltage when it appears to be discharged?
Here's one consideration - this thought was sparked (no pun intended!) by knowledge of a common problem and aided by your comment about the charging voltage being 13-something:
Generally, the charging system will give over 14V on a Rocket - now that is with a reasonably charged battery of course - if battery is discharged, then even when running, the voltage will be low (that is no different that how your battery charger displays the voltage - as it becomes more charged, the voltage of course goes up until it is saturated);
yours being 13 could be just a product of the voltage having to recover from a discharged state;
however it could also be a sign of another issue, quite common, especially on Touring I have noted;
the Ground lead - the smaller gauge one that comes off the MAIN negative goes to the Bike's main grounding scheme AND to the R/R negative goes via a single-terminal connector about 9" or so from the main terminal - that connector frequently burns and you have a high resistance connection there.
Now if that is the case, then a) you will not be charging adequately and b) you will have a voltage drop across it
In the 'b' case, your battery itself may not be as fully discharged as appears by its behaviour, but because is below its previous threshold for operation, may discharge enough for it to render it as if it were.

Highly speculative but simple enough to check - look for that connector and inspect it for signs of burning.
(@Kevin frazier can attest to that one too )

The EarthX battery has a circuit that goes 'off when it gets drawn down to much. So it shows '0' When it clicks back on, it comes in at 13.7v Also, the charging system tests fine. It also draws down when I leave it parked... meaning, the charging system is not related to the issue

OP said battery is clean so it's not draining due to surface discharge, any chance when seat is on bike its allowing a path

Taped off the terminals. No change. Also checked the relays. Clicking away as they should

 

[leatal]

As a last resort, try removing the left bank of fuses in the fuse box and let it set for a few days. If no drain put fuses back in and try other side. If one side shows drain, remove half of that side's fuses and continue monitoring/moving bad side fuses around until you find which circuit is causing the drain. Since you have a complete drain in a week, should only need a couple of days to show voltage drop.

 

[dandiego]

Unsure if this has been mentioned or checked, but an alarm—Triumph or aftermarket—will cause a parasitic power drain.

A trickle charger will help balance that out.