Parasitic Drain, 2014 Rocket III Touring - Mystery: Multimeter shows zero draw with the key out

[Chullera]

Also anti gravity has a wide range of jump starts emergency sos light units

Thanks, the anti-gravity ones have been a help for when the bike needs a Jump. Only problem is the size of the rocket III Even the top of the line XP-10 will give you only one or two cranks.... if that does not start the bike you have to trickle charge the battery. At least the anti-gravity opens up the protective circuit on the EarthX

 

[Kevin frazier]

Thanks, the anti-gravity ones have been a help for when the bike needs a Jump. Only problem is the size of the rocket III Even the top of the line XP-10 will give you only one or two cranks.... if that does not start the bike you have to trickle charge the battery. At least the anti-gravity opens up the protective circuit on the EarthX

this monster has a safe switch in it, at 10.5v she is effectively turned off, computer sees 0 dont ask me how i know this but it saved my battery from disaster

 

[BillB]

Thanks, the anti-gravity ones have been a help for when the bike needs a Jump. Only problem is the size of the rocket III Even the top of the line XP-10 will give you only one or two cranks.... if that does not start the bike you have to trickle charge the battery. At least the anti-gravity opens up the protective circuit on the EarthX

If you have a XP-10 that will only give you a crank or 2 you need to get a new one brudda. I have one at work and I can jumpstart 14 cars with dead batteries before I even have to recharge it.

 

[Kevin frazier]

If you have a XP-10 that will only give you a crank or 2 you need to get a new one brudda. I have one at work and I can jumpstart 14 cars with dead batteries before I even have to recharge it.

Ding ding ding we may have a winner of the chicken dinner! Bad battery

 

[BillB]

Ding ding ding we may have a winner of the chicken dinner! Bad battery

I wuz talking about his jumper box Kev.

 

[Kevin frazier]

I wuz talking about his jumper box Kev.

Yeah but why only 1 or 2 jumps with same box and you get 10 at work, probably good chance its the battery, you nailed it i bet

 

[Bigjaype]

So, have you left the multimeter connected and walked away for a while? This will confirm or quash your theory about a phantom drain.
I had a pickup that would kill the battery after it stood for more than 7 days. It was a relay for the second battery system that would switch on after 5 minutes to kill the charge from the main battery. They had wired it so that it energized instead of de-enrgizing. The milliamps from this coil was enough to drain the main battery (150a/h) over 7 days or more, so that it could hardly crank the motor.

 

[ruzzle]

Disconnect the battery next time you park it and see if it still goes flat.

 

[DEcosse]

Note for @mully95 & @Kevin frazier (& anyone others who have DEcosse KeyLess system) please note that there IS a standing drain with that system - there has to be so the RFID module can 'poll' for the presence of the remote. But it should not kill the battery in couple of weeks (my relatively small LiFe battery in my Daytona needs to be recharged every couple of weeks if not ridden, but the capacity of an RIII Lead-acid battery will exceed this many times over). If you ride fairly often (at least once per week) then there should not be any need to have a trickle charge to maintain it, although it is good insurance to do so.

For @Chullera - I don't believe you have my keyless (didn't mention any accessories other than your USB and you would certainly detect a draw if it were installed)
If you truly cannot measure any drain current with key-off, then the battery must be self-discharging. It seems odd that you have experienced this with multiple batteries, however it seems to be the case, at least on the data supplied. There is nothing OEM that draws any current with key-off other than a tiny, tiny amount to maintain the Trip Memory in the instruments.
I would however have expected the USB to draw something even with no device connected (although the difference with say a phone for example would be quite dramatic, as much as several amps)
Check the condition of your battery to begin with - charge your battery, then complete a substantial ride, whereby you believe the battery to reasonably well-charged.
After return, turn on the Ignition (and thereby also the headlight) - what is the voltage you read across the battery in this condition? And just as importantly, how quickly is it dropping over the course of say 1 minute? That will give you a good indication of the general state of charge of your battery. With a single headlight, this should certainly be at least in the low 12's and maintaining with only a quite slow rate of voltage drop. (for twin H4 headlight models, at least high 11's is probably still acceptable)
If below this threshold and dropping at a fair clip, then your battery fundamentally has a problem.

 

[Kevin frazier]

Note for @mully95 & @Kevin frazier (& anyone others who have DEcosse KeyLess system) please note that there IS a standing drain with that system - there has to be so the RFID module can 'poll' for the presence of the remote. But it should not kill the battery in couple of weeks (my relatively small LiFe battery in my Daytona needs to be recharged every couple of weeks if not ridden, but the capacity of an RIII Lead-acid battery will exceed this many times over). If you ride fairly often (at least once per week) then there should not be any need to have a trickle charge to maintain it, although it is good insurance to do so.

For @Chullera - I don't believe you have my keyless (didn't mention any accessories other than your USB and you would certainly detect a draw if it were installed)
If you truly cannot measure any drain current with key-off, then the battery must be self-discharging. It seems odd that you have experienced this with multiple batteries, however it seems to be the case, at least on the data supplied. There is nothing OEM that draws any current with key-off other than a tiny, tiny amount to maintain the Trip Memory in the instruments.
I would however have expected the USB to draw something even with no device connected (although the difference with say a phone for example would be quite dramatic, as much as several amps)
Check the condition of your battery to begin with - charge your battery, then complete a substantial ride, whereby you believe the battery to reasonably well-charged.
After return, turn on the Ignition (and thereby also the headlight) - what is the voltage you read across the battery in this condition? And just as importantly, how quickly is it dropping over the course of say 1 minute? That will give you a good indication of the general state of charge of your battery. With a single headlight, this should certainly be at least in the low 12's and maintaining with only a quite slow rate of voltage drop. (for twin H4 headlight models, at least high 11's is probably still acceptable)
If below this threshold and dropping at a fair clip, then your battery fundamentally has a problem.

Note for @mully95 & @Kevin frazier (& anyone others who have DEcosse KeyLess system) please note that there IS a standing drain with that system - there has to be so the RFID module can 'poll' for the presence of the remote. But it should not kill the battery in couple of weeks (my relatively small LiFe battery in my Daytona needs to be recharged every couple of weeks if not ridden, but the capacity of an RIII Lead-acid battery will exceed this many times over). If you ride fairly often (at least once per week) then there should not be any need to have a trickle charge to maintain it, although it is good insurance to do so.

For @Chullera - I don't believe you have my keyless (didn't mention any accessories other than your USB and you would certainly detect a draw if it were installed)
If you truly cannot measure any drain current with key-off, then the battery must be self-discharging. It seems odd that you have experienced this with multiple batteries, however it seems to be the case, at least on the data supplied. There is nothing OEM that draws any current with key-off other than a tiny, tiny amount to maintain the Trip Memory in the instruments.
I would however have expected the USB to draw something even with no device connected (although the difference with say a phone for example would be quite dramatic, as much as several amps)
Check the condition of your battery to begin with - charge your battery, then complete a substantial ride, whereby you believe the battery to reasonably well-charged.
After return, turn on the Ignition (and thereby also the headlight) - what is the voltage you read across the battery in this condition? And just as importantly, how quickly is it dropping over the course of say 1 minute? That will give you a good indication of the general state of charge of your battery. With a single headlight, this should certainly be at least in the low 12's and maintaining with only a quite slow rate of voltage drop. (for twin H4 headlight models, at least high 11's is probably still acceptable)
If below this threshold and dropping at a fair clip, then your battery fundamentally has a problem.

Trying to share what youve taught aint easy, you the man my brutha