Oh No - Transmission........ BOOM Maybe.

I did both mods at the same time but Bob chose the APE tensioner so only a couple of the larger shoes were made. Of course your shoe can be altered as its just enlarging the oval plunger hole. If I remember right the OEM plunger was about .075" larger diameter then the APE. As for the tensioner mod its really pretty simple even Fred modified his. Myself If I have another rocket with the auto tensioner it will be modified even if its stock just for safety.

so then modifiaction is just with the center nut so it can be done on any bike without losing the timing as YOU WILL NOT BE TURNING THE ENGINE OVER WHILE THE CENTER NUT IS OUT !!!!!!

below is a couple pictures first one in red is the unmodified OEM Auto tensioner blue is it modified

OEM Verses Mod center nut.jpg


below in red is the modified tensioner assembled

modded center nut.jpg


Basically You remove the dowel pin that aligns the tension spring. Drill and tap the center nut and replace the dowel pin with a 1/4x20 UNC stainless stud.

Now adjusting it. after installing the center nut with the new stud and spring (don't forget the copper washer) You run the stud down to the bottom of the plunger and back it off 1/2 turn. this is not use to force adjustment it is merely there to stop the tensioner from releasing allowing slop in the chain and your timing to jump. Once it is in the right location you lock it with the double nut ( the Acorn nut is for dressing things up a bit I went with a longer stud and a regular nut then ended up finishing it off with the Acorn nut for looks).

tensioner mod installed.jpg
That's fricken cool. The tensioner should come from the factory like this!
 
That's fricken cool. The tensioner should come from the factory like this!
I suppose it could be but it would not come loaded. By this I mean if you look in the first mod picture right above the blue box you will see what looks like a brass fer rel but in reality is a bushing with external left hand threads. This is pressed on the dowel pin then the plunger and spring are compressed and it is screwed into the beginning ID of the plunger. this way you bolt the tensioner on the block and as soon as you start tightening the center nut down the left hand thread back out releasing the plunger to take up the slack in the cam chain. for production and shop assembly where you do not dial the cams it is a excellent Idea although I like the safety post better. But its just my opinion. I would love to get a look at the broken guide once it is out especially where the tensioner rest then I could give a honest evaluation as to why it broke. without that I only have a couple three ideas as to what happened.
 
As for guides Steel is right I make tensioner parts for the APE tensioner. You have Nev's which he had made with a larger head then the APE.. I am curious to see what the back side of your guide looks like as I do have a couple thoughts on the last few guides that have broke and why. But I need to gather more intell before I put my foot in my mouth. Anyway since the cams need to be retimed I would guess you'll send her down to the master in the Tin shed :)
That guide is OEM not on of Nev’s
 
As for guides Steel is right I make tensioner parts for the APE tensioner. You have Nev's which he had made with a larger head then the APE.. I am curious to see what the back side of your guide looks like as I do have a couple thoughts on the last few guides that have broke and why. But I need to gather more intell before I put my foot in my mouth. Anyway since the cams need to be retimed I would guess you'll send her down to the master in the Tin shed :)
Sadly the Master in the tin shed is 1500miles away.
 
Not the guide the tensioner. Nev had some nice black manual tensioners made with a larger button/head on it verses the APE manual tensioner. Thats what I was referring to.
No My tensioner is the Blue one Pre Nev Magic.
 
No - Apparently its a direct result in doing burnouts or really heavy with the clutch.

Opps ! I'm not doing burnouts, but have been known to give the bike full throttle then load the engine by a controlled release of the clutch. Makes for awesome acceleration, but now I might be in line for ending up with the same result :( :banghead:
 
Back
Top