The reason that happens is poor contact between the Fuse and the Fuse-Terminals - this makes for a high resistance connection and because it is a high current circuit, generates heat -
Power = I^2 * R;
So say I = 20A and R = 0.01 ohms (i.e. that is 1/100 of an ohm!!!) that is already 4W - so you can see it does not take 'much' resistance to generate heat at that current
(think how hot even a 3W Pilot lamp gets) = take that resistance up to 0.05 ohms and suddenly you're at 20 watts.

So what is happening is that it is not excessive current that is melting the fusable link, it is the heat dissipated in the connection that is melting the plastic holder.

You can try a new good quality fuse, thoroughly clean the tabs, clean the Fuse socket terminals, give them a little squeeze (so they are tighter and grip the fuse snugly) and also consider to use some electrical contact enhancer.

But you may end up bypassing the Fuse with an external holder if it persists.
If you do, use a quality device like a MetriPack (too bad this wasn't 10 days ago or so, could have put one in with your shipment) and properly crimp the terminals -I typically crimp AND solder.
 
@Jeffrey Cochran that is side of fuse the size is as recommended but it has never blown, can the fuse box be taken apart or better to get a single holder and by pass oem altogether.:thumbsup:

I had problems with my 30 amp fuse not staying fully in contact with the fuse connectors. Sometimes it would barely have contact and shut the bike down. One time I was riding down the road and the neutral light came on and the gauges swept. The connectors would "pop out" of the plastic fuse box. I tried to fix the connectors but they would slowly loose contact. I bypassed the fuse box all together and installed a in line fuse. Haven't had a bit of trouble out of it since. I believe Triumph needs to upgrade their fuse boxes.

It's like this one but proper wire gauge: http://www.alliedelec.com/bussmann-...=30980760979&gclid=CNnp5qvLwsUCFRcvgQodiWQACw
 
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