Prestaged
Supercharged
Recently my trusty ’08 R3T started blowing the main fuse. I could replace the fuse, but after 10 miles or so it would go again. I am not too good with things electrical, so, after having a look-see and finding nothing suspect, I decided to do a search here. What I found was an almost three-year-old thread that included a post by @DEcosse that said, among other things:
“When a Fuse blows from over-current condition (normally the circuit has experienced a momentary short to ground), then the internal fusible link simply opens, with no visible external damage to the body of the fuse. However, if the plastic body is melted, that is from ongoing heat condition. This is primarily caused by poor connectivity of the fuse blades in the socket - a high resistance joint creates a volt drop across the fuse and an associated generated power which is expended as heat. The best solution here would be to bypass the Fuse location in the Panel and replace with an external high-quality Fuse Holder connected to the original wires to that location in the Fuse Panel. (i.e. cut the wires going to OEM Fuse and wire in a new Fuse Holder)”
While reading that, a light bulb went off in my normally dim head. My blown fuses did not have an interrupted link, but rather had melted plastic on one end. It then occurred to me that one of the connectors for this fuse in the box did not seem to be seated properly (visually it was lower, almost not really “in” the box). So I cut the wires going to that fuse and connected them to a fuse holder and now everything is good again.
That is long way of saying that this is a great place to find solutions for little problems with these bikes. This is the second time that DEcosse has helped me much more than he will ever know. The first time was in diagnosing a bad stator last year. @Kevin frazier was also instrumental in getting me through the process of the stator replacement. Without the help found on this forum I honestly don’t think I would still be riding or have this great bike.
“When a Fuse blows from over-current condition (normally the circuit has experienced a momentary short to ground), then the internal fusible link simply opens, with no visible external damage to the body of the fuse. However, if the plastic body is melted, that is from ongoing heat condition. This is primarily caused by poor connectivity of the fuse blades in the socket - a high resistance joint creates a volt drop across the fuse and an associated generated power which is expended as heat. The best solution here would be to bypass the Fuse location in the Panel and replace with an external high-quality Fuse Holder connected to the original wires to that location in the Fuse Panel. (i.e. cut the wires going to OEM Fuse and wire in a new Fuse Holder)”
While reading that, a light bulb went off in my normally dim head. My blown fuses did not have an interrupted link, but rather had melted plastic on one end. It then occurred to me that one of the connectors for this fuse in the box did not seem to be seated properly (visually it was lower, almost not really “in” the box). So I cut the wires going to that fuse and connected them to a fuse holder and now everything is good again.
That is long way of saying that this is a great place to find solutions for little problems with these bikes. This is the second time that DEcosse has helped me much more than he will ever know. The first time was in diagnosing a bad stator last year. @Kevin frazier was also instrumental in getting me through the process of the stator replacement. Without the help found on this forum I honestly don’t think I would still be riding or have this great bike.
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