melted 30 amp fuse

[rmdrake]

did you test this on high beam too?
if so, did the wires get hot?

yes i tried high and low beam , gets warm with low beam hot with high beam

 

[bagman]

yes i tried high and low beam , gets warm with low beam hot with high beam

have you tried swapping the two relays on your EB headlight kit? swap with each other and see if you get the same results.

You may also want to check the coupler from the EB kit and make sure the wires & coupler are fine as well.

 

[rmdrake]

have you tried swapping the two relays on your EB headlight kit? swap with each other and see if you get the same results.

You may also want to check the coupler from the EB kit and make sure the wires & coupler are fine as well.

no i havent done that, why would swapping relays make a difference ? dont have the coupler, i orderd the rocket specific relays which dont have a coupler it came with H 4 plugs which install inside the headlight bowles

 

[bagman]

no i havent done that, why would swapping relays make a difference ? dont have the coupler, i orderd the rocket specific relays which dont have a coupler it came with H 4 plugs which install inside the headlight bowles

the wiring for the headlights draws power for the headlights directly from the battery. so the only thing tied to the oem system is the on/off of the relays and the toggle switch for high/low beam. if the relays are the problem, swapping the two will cause the problem (hot wires) to follow the relay, hence the low beam will be hot & high beam warm.

if it doesn't move, then you need to look at the wires tied in for the hi/lo switch or the switch itself.

 

[rmdrake]

the wiring for the headlights draws power for the headlights directly from the battery. so the only thing tied to the oem system is the on/off of the relays and the toggle switch for high/low beam. if the relays are the problem, swapping the two will cause the problem (hot wires) to follow the relay, hence the low beam will be hot & high beam warm.

if it doesn't move, then you need to look at the wires tied in for the hi/lo switch or the switch itself.

i will check it out this weekend thanks

 

[rmdrake]

checkd H-4 plug behind headlights all is well , took hi lo beam switch apart all is well there allso, aint gotta clue whats causing it ,

 

[rmdrake]

ok been a few weeks since i been able to check the wirring out on this bike , here is what ihave ..E.B relays connected to battery,driving lights connected to battery, PC-8 fuse panel conected to battery, ignition toggle switch connected to un switched terminal on the PC-8 fuse panel,, i have the remote ignition 3 relay setup, brief review, im melting the 30 amp fuse in the main fuse panel #11for battery, not blowing the fuse just getting so hot the plastic is melting. my ignition toggle is just supplying powere to relays to turn powere on to bike , with the engine off butt powered up all lights on, driving lights and headlights , the main wire going to stock fuse panel is cool to the touch, hit the start button and the wire imediatly starts to heat up , gets so hot you cant leave your finger on it, i pulled fuses 1 3 and 4 , as per bagmans instructions , wires still hot , any ideas?

 

[HellFire]

By now you are probably thinking the same as me ... verify your insurance and ride it till it catches fire. (maybe even help it stay lit)

 

[Gothlander]

Sounds like a starter issue, worn starter motors can pole out and draw high amps. I would look at the starter circuit for shorts, maybe the main wire to the starter is bent over and shorting on the starter motor.

 

[rmdrake]

i had pulled the starter, the main wire looked ok no sign off wire getting hot , with all the lights on and motor running im pulling 23 amps, motor running all lights off pulling about 18 amps,,,,,,