So I learned a lot about my bike today, I got the seat off (lol), raised the gas tank and found another Power Commander Module, this one is the Auto-Tune which is plugged into the PCV. I found two wires on the Auto-Tune module (which goes to the sensor in the exhaust) that were loose and not making contact with the module. Not sure how that might have impacted my bike but I got them re-attached and fastened down tightly. I also figured out how to use the PowerCommander software on my laptop and was able to connect to the PCV and look at settings (no, I didn't make any changes).

I removed the Bear claw and unfortunately I have a stock intake, with everything the previous owner put into this bike I am surprised he didn't swing for an aftermarket intake. Oh well, I guess that will be one of the mod's I get to do, (after the horn).

Lastly a question, with the PCV and the Autotune on the bike, does running a 12 minute tune (learned that one myself) still apply?

Paul.

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I can't believe that someone would spend all that money on a PCV and left the air in take system stock.

You will need to get that sorted.
 
I can't believe that someone would spend all that money on a PCV and left the air in take system stock.

You will need to get that sorted.

Suggestions?

Whats he gonna find next???

Not sure, this bike is like a treasure map, every where I look it's like finding a prize.

...Oh, and I found tire valve stem TPMS sensors as well, downloaded the app and they are still working.
 
Suggestions?.


It's a toss up between Ram Air (foam) and various K&N pod filters. The K&N RU-2780s fit under the Bear Claw without having to cut the claw. Larger filters that some members use require that you break out the Dremel tool.

You'll need to move the air sensor either into (as inside) one of the filters or use another K&N filter around it and place it near the filters. More on that here (and in many other posts)
Air Intake Question

You'll also need to put a filter on the crankcase breather that normally runs back into the stock intake. It's another K&N filter, sorry I forget the model # , but a quick search here will get you there.

Besides allowing her to breathe better you will, once all that stock snorkel is removed, be able to change plugs and check valve clearance, etc. without constantly dealing with removing the stock breather. Once I took the stock crap off I was certain that I didn't want to ever take the time to reinstall it. It's a PITA

Here's some more info...
Air Intake Question
 
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Welcome from Minden Nevada USA! Congrats on getting a bike with some goodies. I run triple K&Ns on my R3T, cut the bear claw and stuck the coolant overflow under the seat.
 
Hey all,

Now that I have my R3T home, I could use help with the following:
  • A blank Triumph key (dealer only had one key).
  • An owners manual (dealer didn't have it).
  • Other typical newbie questions such as:
    • Oil / filter recommendations
    • Fuel Octane - Do these engines have any preferences or run better on a given octane?
I do have one disappointment, the horn. I'm sorry, but the horn on my R3T does not match the personality of the rest of the bike. The horn needs to command attention like the bike does, it needs to sound like it means business, not like it's asking for permission. Any thoughts on replacements?

Thank you,

Paul.


When i got my R3T from the dealer it did not have a Triumph key. They lost them at the dealership and had a locksmith come to make one for the ignition. I called Triumph and they said that all they needed was the VIN number and my info, then they needed to call the dealership to confirm my identity and that I indeed own the bike, and they cut and sent me 2 keys.

worth a shot for you.
 
When i got my R3T from the dealer it did not have a Triumph key. They lost them at the dealership and had a locksmith come to make one for the ignition. I called Triumph and they said that all they needed was the VIN number and my info, then they needed to call the dealership to confirm my identity and that I indeed own the bike, and they cut and sent me 2 keys.

worth a shot for you.

Thank you, I will give this a try.
 
So I learned a lot about my bike today, I got the seat off (lol), raised the gas tank and found another Power Commander Module, this one is the Auto-Tune which is plugged into the PCV. I found two wires on the Auto-Tune module (which goes to the sensor in the exhaust) that were loose and not making contact with the module. Not sure how that might have impacted my bike but I got them re-attached and fastened down tightly. I also figured out how to use the PowerCommander software on my laptop and was able to connect to the PCV and look at settings (no, I didn't make any changes).

I removed the Bear claw and unfortunately I have a stock intake, with everything the previous owner put into this bike I am surprised he didn't swing for an aftermarket intake. Oh well, I guess that will be one of the mod's I get to do, (after the horn).

Lastly a question, with the PCV and the Autotune on the bike, does running a 12 minute tune (learned that one myself) still apply?

Paul.

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2.jpg

Ok what you have here is a good setup minus a decent air intake.

One thing to be aware of is that the 12 minute "tune" is not a tune and dont trust statements where people say "oh you can change the exhaust-intake-whatever and simply do the 12 min tune and it will all be sweet.

The 12min tune is a factory fitment and the bike comes with a narrow band 02 sensor, this only works over a "narrow band" i.e idle and works directly on the bike ECU. In your case it is also irrelevant, here's why.

1. The PVC with AT use a wide band O2 sensor and the narrow band is removed so the bike ECU has no idea whats going on now at idle but this really doesn't matter too much.

2. The AT measures the air fuel ratio (AFR) over most of the rev range now and feeds this measurement to the PCV that intercepts and trims the fuel injection pulses to meet the programmed AFR target in the PVC.

3. The bike ECU still controls all other functions like ignition advance and the basic fuelling, it also adds a big squirt of gas (like a pumper carburetor) when you rap the throttle. So its still very important.

Things you need to do.

a. Get Tune ECU and a cable and hook it up to your bike, make sure the O2 sensor has been unchecked.
b. On Tune ECU open the secondary throttles to 100% would like to think this has been done but with the stock air still on (but Jardines?) I'd be doubtful. You'll also be able to upload a much better base ECU map.
c. Make sure the AT is powered up, should be a light on it with the bike turned on.
d. Download and install the Dynojet Software with the correct cable (a basic micro USB, thankfully).
e. Go into the software and ensure the AT is actually turned on.
f. Upload a blank PCV MAP and have the AT trims on 20%.
g. Ride for a decent time then accept the trims and drop the adjustment down to 10%, you can then go to 5% but DO NOT keep on accepting trims anymore as you will lean the bike out down low due to the "pumper" on the bike ECU, the PCV cannot compensate for this, trust me I didnt learn my lesson immediately.
h. Get an air system

And before you do any uploads/downloads to either the ECU or PCV copy and save whats on there so you can always revert.

You will unleash the real power out of the bike if you do this.

Hope this helps
 
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