Had to leave Barbers Early

[scot in exile]

Just noticed a couple of leaks where the bypass pipe connects will address that tomorrow they are not bad but still should not be leaking, that would not cause the bike to do what it is doing--would it?

 

[Lostride]

I had a similar issue. The header pipe had a crack where the heat shield bolts in, apparently it is fragile, sorry if you aren't running stock header, I didn't read the entire thread (yet).
Also when I got my bike the plugs where pretty bad, I put new ones in and the air cleaner (K&N) needed a clean and re-oil, this made an instant difference.
I am having the opposite problem (again) at the moment, high idle.. this is following a 12 minute tune and going out beside the airport last sunday and gave it WOT in the first 3 gears to get some adaption in all throttle positions.

 

[warp9.9]

Just noticed a couple of leaks where the bypass pipe connects will address that tomorrow they are not bad but still should not be leaking, that would not cause the bike to do what it is doing--would it?

By bypass pipe do you mean where the three from each throttle body join the large one running to the map sensor? If so I suspect the changes do tot he vacuum leak could mess with it bad. since it is leaking the bike would think your throttle is open more load is on the engine at low rpm figuring the F to L switch point is in especially if it is in the lower throttle percentages where the map is assigned fueling from the map sensor signal. This could be why it runs better at higher rpms because you on the F table not the lambda tables. @DEcosse is on to something there When I had one vacuum plug go bad I changed all and the lines to eliminate chasing the monkey again.

 

[Mittzy]

I assume the bike was running fine prior to your trip to Barbers???
You may just have put some dirty/crappy fuel in at last fill that may have got through the filtration system somehow and into your injectors....
Just thinking out loud (or in text)

 

[scot in exile]

By bypass pipe do you mean where the three from each throttle body join the large one running to the map sensor? If so I suspect the changes do tot he vacuum leak could mess with it bad. since it is leaking the bike would think your throttle is open more load is on the engine at low rpm figuring the F to L switch point is in especially if it is in the lower throttle percentages where the map is assigned fueling from the map sensor signal. This could be why it runs better at higher rpms because you on the F table not the lambda tables. @DEcosse is on to something there When I had one vacuum plug go bad I changed all and the lines to eliminate chasing the monkey again.

No the exhaust pipe under the bike

 

[jpool]

[...]
So that one is reading ~ 580 (higher rpm however at 900) vs yours at 740 (at 840 rpm)
[...]
I may be wrong - it would be good to get a qualified answer from another user, regarding what manifold pressure at 840 rpm idle would be.

I balanced the throttle bodies on my '11 Roadster just yesterday, and the end result was also 580 (x10) hPa at 870 RPM idle. While making adjustments, the RPMs occasionally climbed up all the way to 1700, but the manifold pressure never exceeded 640 (x10) hPa. This was at ~ sea level. You would get different MAP readings at high elevations, but even then, I think the number should be smaller, not higher.

If these two data points are to be trusted, my guess is also on a vacuum leak.

 

[DEcosse]

... the end result was also 580 (x10) hPa at 870 RPM idle. While making adjustments, the RPMs occasionally climbed up all the way to 1700, but the manifold pressure never exceeded 640 (x10) hPa.

If these two data points are to be trusted, my guess is also on a vacuum leak.

Note that at higher rpm gives 'more' vacuum (lower pressure) ie the numerical value is lower

Yes , my original thought from the outset was a vac leak, the high pressure 740 reading definitely corroborates that for me - and when you see per the map table (albeit oem table) the difference in delivered fuel for that pressure difference is almost 2x!
note if it IS a leak, it would have to be at a common point affecting all three tb's, since all three readings are close; that would put it at the map sensor itself or perhaps at the emissions canister connections (or if has been removed, not properly blocked off
ie it would not be a connection at a throttle body nipple

Exhaust leaks would not cause this type of fueling issue, so yeah, fix em but don't believe they're your problem

 

[R3Tex]

By bypass pipe do you mean where the three from each throttle body join the large one running to the map sensor? If so I suspect the changes do tot he vacuum leak could mess with it bad. since it is leaking the bike would think your throttle is open more load is on the engine at low rpm figuring the F to L switch point is in especially if it is in the lower throttle percentages where the map is assigned fueling from the map sensor signal. This could be why it runs better at higher rpms because you on the F table not the lambda tables. @DEcosse is on to something there When I had one vacuum plug go bad I changed all and the lines to eliminate chasing the monkey again.

I have had this happen and it seriously jacks with idle, throttle response, cruise, etc. The bike doesn't want to run at all and blows smoke from all the fuel getting dumped. However, both times it has happened to me the bike threw a code. Since you have posted pics of computer screens I assume that you have checked trouble codes which would make me thin that this isn't the issue

 

[Mark Dunn]

scot in exile,

Have you been under the tank recently and perhaps dislodged the vacuum hose that connects to the MAP sensor?

Another possibility is that the MAP sensor itself is dirty, blocked or damaged. You can by MAP sensor aerosol cleaner at AutoZone or O'Reilly's so it might be worth a punt. It takes only a tiny piece of debris to make the sensor FUBAR.

Regards,
Mark Dunn

 

[scot in exile]

Gentlemen and you also my Dunfermline friend, Warp(Scott) as with you all have been super helpful Scott even called Carpenter Racing about my problem and they told him that some of the early roadsters had a corrupt tune installed I called Carpenter and they asked me to send in the ECU and they would re flash it and install a new tune, I sent it off to them this morning so keeping my fingers crossed that this is the problem.
Now getting back to all those bloody vac lines my question is as Florida is not an emission state can I remove them or some of them and plug the ports?