Enlisting Mufasa for Salt Duty

[TURBO200R4]

sounds goooooooood

 

[Claviger]

First test ride in. I remember why I bought the Z H2 now....

So angry. So grumpy about riding the speedlimit. Such a furiously pissed off bike lol.

Clutch is being grabby, but otherwise, runs exactly like when I put it away. No wobbles at 130ish, wasn't prepared to test faster today.

Idles right after a ride, still have to keep idle rich or it lopes like hell. Time for another oil change now, diff fluid (again), grease the shaft and then beautification to roll back time a bit.

 

[Gerald]

Well, the little battery that hopefully could, did.

Unplugged the injectors to get oil lubricated through before starting after a few years, and the single LiPO battery spun it happily. 3 rounds for 30 seconds.

I will retain the SAE jump connector to quickly be able to connect a jump box if needed, but it's successfully cranked it in ~55f weather.

On the metal requirement for battery hold down, I've thought of a trivial way to replace the rubber strap with a metal bar, the base tray is already steel so rule compliant easily.

Lots to do still but this was a nice wake up:

PS: Let's not discuss what is going on in my Garage right now ...lol

Congratulations good start up.

 

[Justdad]

Well, the little battery that hopefully could, did.

Unplugged the injectors to get oil lubricated through before starting after a few years, and the single LiPO battery spun it happily. 3 rounds for 30 seconds.

I will retain the SAE jump connector to quickly be able to connect a jump box if needed, but it's successfully cranked it in ~55f weather.

On the metal requirement for battery hold down, I've thought of a trivial way to replace the rubber strap with a metal bar, the base tray is already steel so rule compliant easily.

Lots to do still but this was a nice wake up:

PS: Let's not discuss what is going on in my Garage right now ...lol

It lives!!! Excellent. The battery box sounds good. There two things that normally fail most bikes in tech inspection. 1. Battery box 2. Chain guards. We don't have to worry about number 2.

I like the update vids

 

[Claviger]

Went out tooling about today, doing some data logs to clean up sub 5% TPS fueling (around town type riding) since I never bothered in 2019. As I'm sitting looking through the data logs I FINALLY discovered why fueling below 1800rpm, basically the area where you need the most finesse maneuvering on the rocket, where often the clutch is being drug some, always runs poorly and lean.

The PC-V thinks the bike is in neutral, so it's not applying any per-gear fueling corrections and the bike is being fueled purely on the ECU data, which is apparently very lean in that area. What a relief. Otherwise, bike is solid AF. Runs strong and very clean from 15% and up from about 2500rpm and up, just need to meticulously stomp out the bad behavior outside that range.

Front tire, or front wheel bearings are shot, not sure which. There's a slight left/right/left/right pull when going straight, Not a wobble or shake, a very gentle kind of pull to one side or the other. That's the next thing to get rid of since it's a safety issue. On second thought, it's got to be the bearings, I recall hearing a click noise that shouldn't be present from somewhere up front on the bike yesterday, thankfully I have them on hand already.

 

[Claviger]

So the above I mentioned gear calculation as the root issue. It's was more than just thinking it's in neutral, it was, at times, calculating just flat out incorrect values like being in 5th gear at idle in neutral. Either the sensor is questionable (unlikely), the wiring is at fault cracked/loose (most likely), or the PCV is at fault internally (not unheard of).

I reset the PCV to use a single fuel table and single kill time for the quick shifter, this eliminates the PCV calculating what gear the bike is in, always displaying "gear 0".

Once I did that a lot of peculiarities went away, idle stabilized better at 950-1000 instead of a swing of 900-1100, stall resistance is better, and it's much smoother.

I suspect this was the cause of my fueling anomalies back in September 2019 when the bike was acting wierd on the Dyno, ultimately limiting it to 256 instead of the expected 265+.

Next effort will be completely eliminating the PCV fueling adjustments by slowly adjusting the base TuneECU tune, essentially turning it into a fancy QS and datalogger only.

Once I get to that point, the PC-V will come off along with the default gauges to be replaced with a Dataloggging Dash with GPS speedo,
zeitronix ZT-3, and healtech QS setup giving all functionality back and finally divorcing from Dynonet once and for all. AIM has a perfect 7" TFT dash I'm looking at, the MXG system.

TuneECUU now has an option to disable/ignore the instruments making that change possible (finally), though I still need to validate that the checkbox both works and allows the bike to start with no gauges connected.

 

[Claviger]

So progress has been made. Bike idles about as good as can be reasonably expected for big/long cams, ITBs, and no airbox to smooth pulses out.

I've reset the FL switch table to 2% in the 611/970/1358 RPM columns in TuneECU and 0 elsewhere to reenable the L tables for idle and just off idle fueling. Made a few cold start datalogs from 30c to 90c coolant temp and refined the L tables to be more accurate. Bike now idles like it always should have at 13:1 AFR +/- 0.3 and 1060 +/- 40 RPM. Lower RPM and it's somewhat cranky/lopey, as expected of big cams.

Next thing was moving the idle in neutral ignition timing "valley", so if it stumbles it gets 2 degrees extra timing to raise it back to 1060, where it then drops timing and prevents over speed idle. Triumph use a similar technique on stock tunes.

The 1400-2000 0-2% fueling is correct now as well, and I've integrated the PC-V adjustments from 15-100% into the TuneECU file. 3-10% will need to be ridden to be tuned.

Next step will be finding a isolated road I can do some tuning on as I've completely lost confidence in any shop near me to actually do a complete tuning job at this point. Dyno will be used for 5000rpm+ at 60/70/78/100 % TPS columns only since they can't be done safely on the street.

Per a suggestion made to me, those areas will be the only part of the map the PC-V fuel adjustment is active because the increased granularity may be necessary to get fueling correct.

 

[1olbull]

Went out tooling about today, doing some data logs to clean up sub 5% TPS fueling (around town type riding) since I never bothered in 2019. As I'm sitting looking through the data logs I FINALLY discovered why fueling below 1800rpm, basically the area where you need the most finesse maneuvering on the rocket, where often the clutch is being drug some, always runs poorly and lean.

The PC-V thinks the bike is in neutral, so it's not applying any per-gear fueling corrections and the bike is being fueled purely on the ECU data, which is apparently very lean in that area. What a relief. Otherwise, bike is solid AF. Runs strong and very clean from 15% and up from about 2500rpm and up, just need to meticulously stomp out the bad behavior outside that range.

Front tire, or front wheel bearings are shot, not sure which. There's a slight left/right/left/right pull when going straight, Not a wobble or shake, a very gentle kind of pull to one side or the other. That's the next thing to get rid of since it's a safety issue. On second thought, it's got to be the bearings, I recall hearing a click noise that shouldn't be present from somewhere up front on the bike yesterday, thankfully I have them on hand already.

What bearings used for the front?

 

[Gerald]

So progress has been made. Bike idles about as good as can be reasonably expected for big/long cams, ITBs, and no airbox to smooth pulses out.

I've reset the FL switch table to 2% in the 611/970/1358 RPM columns in TuneECU and 0 elsewhere to reenable the L tables for idle and just off idle fueling. Made a few cold start datalogs from 30c to 90c coolant temp and refined the L tables to be more accurate. Bike now idles like it always should have at 13:1 AFR +/- 0.3 and 1060 +/- 40 RPM. Lower RPM and it's somewhat cranky/lopey, as expected of big cams.

Next thing was moving the idle in neutral ignition timing "valley", so if it stumbles it gets 2 degrees extra timing to raise it back to 1060, where it then drops timing and prevents over speed idle. Triumph use a similar technique on stock tunes.

The 1400-2000 0-2% fueling is correct now as well, and I've integrated the PC-V adjustments from 15-100% into the TuneECU file. 3-10% will need to be ridden to be tuned.

Next step will be finding a isolated road I can do some tuning on as I've completely lost confidence in any shop near me to actually do a complete tuning job at this point. Dyno will be used for 5000rpm+ at 60/70/78/100 % TPS columns only since they can't be done safely on the street.

Per a suggestion made to me, those areas will be the only part of the map the PC-V fuel adjustment is active because the increased granularity may be necessary to get fueling correct.

Moving forward quite well and quickly, congratulations.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

I'm concerned about 2 things. The air intake filter does it have Vstacks inside ? Are you saying you are not happy with the local dyno shop we have used so many times ?