Enlisting Mufasa for Salt Duty

[Claviger]

I've ordered a LiPO4 battery, despite my doubts in hope of running a single battery.

IF it works as a single battery and removes the need for 2, it'll be a ~26lb weight reduction, all of it from behind the CG, so will help move bias forward.

Also puts Mufasa at 684lbs wet, fueled, and faired. 678lbs with all the front fairing stuff removed With Jerry on it, bike and rider will be almost the same as a stock Roadster haha.

I do have a concern about being too light for the Salt, otherwise I'm confident I could get down to 630ish (BSTs, strip ABS gear, single front rotor/caliper, etc etc).

Finally a picture that shows the color of the bike. It's very difficult to photograph.

 

[Justdad]

I've ordered a LiPO4 battery, despite my doubts in hope of running a single battery.

IF it works as a single battery and removes the need for 2, it'll be a ~26lb weight reduction, all of it from behind the CG, so will help move bias forward.

Also puts Mufasa at 684lbs wet, fueled, and faired. 678lbs with all the front fairing stuff removed With Jerry on it, bike and rider will be almost the same as a stock Roadster haha.

I do have a concern about being too light for the Salt, otherwise I'm confident I could get down to 630ish (BSTs, strip ABS gear, single front rotor/caliper, etc etc).

Finally a picture that shows the color of the bike. It's very difficult to photograph.

Weight, horsepower, aerodynamics, gearing mixed with some hopefully good riding are the key ingredients. Getting the proportions correct is a bit of art and that is the piece that sometimes takes years to get right. The wild card is the wind and salt conditions.

Usually anything more than 180 horsepower on a 600 pound bike will overcome the grip on good salt. Honestly wheel spin on high horsepower bikes can last for the first three miles.

I'm not overly concerned about being too heavy or too light . My job is feed the bike everything it can handle on the salt, big bikes sometimes need smaller bites but take them more often so a lot more precision.

 

[1olbull]

I guess I should know, but will a R3 touring rear wheel fit ?

i reckon, Not without a touring swingarm exchange/mod.

 

[Neville Lush]

Just Dad, I've not ridden on the salt, but have helped quite a few customers. Got some good results and some not so good. Adding weight in good areas, gives us more traction. It's much harder to get grip over 165 mph.... as your probably aware. We added about sixty pounds to a gsxr1000 and got from 178mph to 201.

 

[Ishrub]

Just Dad, I've not ridden on the salt, but have helped quite a few customers. Got some good results and some not so good. Adding weight in good areas, gives us more traction. It's much harder to get grip over 165 mph.... as your probably aware. We added about sixty pounds to a gsxr1000 and got from 178mph to 201.

Shouldn't be any shortage of Rocket III riders with an extra 60+ lbs willing to assist!

 

[Ishrub]

i reckon, Not without a touring swingarm exchange/mod.

two or three final drive types for the Dual headlight Rocket iii.​

T1274000 - DRIVE UNIT FINAL S (ilver?)​

• Reference​

  1

• Part Number​

  T1274000

• Description​

  DRIVE UNIT FINAL S

• Notes​

  Rocket III & Classic

87 degree for the later Std/Classic *(silver ) and for ABS Roadsters (Black).​

North West Motorcycles - Rocket III, Classic & Roadster 0 - Final Drive Unit

Browse OEM Parts for Triumph Rocket III, Classic & Roadster 0 Final Drive Unit

www.northwestmotorcycles.com.au

HTTP://WWW.NORTHWESTMOTORCYCLES.COM.../FINAL-DRIVE-UNIT?SEARCH=DRIVE#PARTID-5653743​

​

T1275000 - DRIVE UNITFINAL87D​

• Reference​

  1

• Part Number​

  T1275000

• Description​

  DRIVE UNITFINAL87D

North West Motorcycles - Rocket III, Classic & Roadster 0 - Rear Wheel & Final Drive

Browse OEM Parts for Triumph Rocket III, Classic & Roadster 0 Rear Wheel & Final Drive

www.northwestmotorcycles.com.au

​

Another type for single headlight Rocket IIII Touring:

the riii touring single headlight uses the 90 degree final drive version.​

North West Motorcycles - ROCKET III TOURING 0 - Final Drive Unit

Browse OEM Parts for Triumph ROCKET III TOURING 0 Final Drive Unit

www.northwestmotorcycles.com.au

T1272050 - DRIVE UNITFINAL90​

• Reference​

  1

• Part Number​

  T1272050

• Description​

  DRIVE UNITFINAL90

North West Motorcycles - Rocket III Touring 0 - Rear Wheel & Final Drive

Browse OEM Parts for Triumph Rocket III Touring 0 Rear Wheel & Final Drive

www.northwestmotorcycles.com.au

 

[Claviger]

The touring swingarm conversion I have thought about in the past. Unfortunately it solves nothing as it's still a 16" wheel. What I've always considered the biggest design induced performance limitation of Rockets.

Thanks for that Nev, I'll keep it in mind about location, thankfully the rear subframe is nice and stout and should provide a good point to fasten ballast out back if necessary.

I have had a look through the rule book and there are 3 rules I'm going to have to get clarified by tech, they are stated as required for all bikes, but I suspect they're for A, S, and APS classes only. Manual Fuel Petcock, Master On/Off on rear of bike, and metal Battery mounts.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

@Claviger I think @Justdad can probably answer these questions as we have taken several size and type of motorcycles to the salt. We took carborated and EFI bikes.

 

[Claviger]

Yeah, some of them just seem odd for EFI bikes given no P class vehicle will have these provisions. Particularly the fuel one, which creates a new potential point of failure, introducing more risk than safety.

I tried the bike last night after 8 hours on the charger so it could finish the desulfate cycle. Fuel pump activated, press of start button = click, but it confirmed pump is alive.

I was dreading redoing the in-tank setup if necessary, nothing is stock in there anymore so it's a bit of a pain.

 

[Justdad]

Just Dad, I've not ridden on the salt, but have helped quite a few customers. Got some good results and some not so good. Adding weight in good areas, gives us more traction. It's much harder to get grip over 165 mph.... as your probably aware. We added about sixty pounds to a gsxr1000 and got from 178mph to 201.

There is definitely some (10 to 15mph) advantage to adding ballast low ahead of the rear axle for longer wheelbase bikes with high horsepower bikes. It has to be at a minimum bolted to the frame per the rules. I have heard of the ballast coming loose and causing problems. If it done right I'm all for it.