Damaged crankcase with pictures -- FIXED

This comes under the category of supreme irony and disappointment potentially.

I'm reminded of the beautiful voice of Linda Ronstadt and her announcement in 2013 she is afflicted by Parkinson's and "cannot sing a note" - Alanis Morrisette -

Common @sonny -- please imagine a good ole American "We can do this!" and devise the way to get this done.

Let's make this a Triumph *owners'* success story.
 
Forget JB weld, or any similar glue, it’s not going to hold. Tig, heliarc and brazing cast aluminum is done but the porosity of cast metal creates challenges, listen to sonny, it’s what he does for a living. It’s always going to be a patch, marginal at best, never as strong as it was. You’re dealing with a lot of weight bouncing on a lever with a mechanical advantage bolted to cast aluminum here.
I think scorp possibly offered a legit idea, maybe a bracket attaching to available bolts nearby could be fabricated to reinforce the repair?

What about making an insurance claim? Possibly homeowners or your vehicle policy would cover this. If you paid someone to move you did they have liability? Did you rent a moving truck that was insured?
Get an insurance company involved and fix it right...replace the case.
 
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Common @sonny -- please imagine a good ole American "We can do this!" and devise the way to get this done.

Let's make this a Triumph *owners'* success story.[/QUOTE]
yeah I"m sure there is a way "We can do this!" and make this a success story but imho opinion you will not be able to use the existing holes will be way to weak no matter what you do why risk dropping the bike because the kickstand failed in the middle of the night at a motel on a trip,parked next to a bunch of other bikes knocking a few of them over with youres when it failed,when a cop pulls you over and says turn off the bike and dismount and it fails then
 
Exactly. I am not attempting to be negative just do not want to see the issue become even worse by someone attempting to weld poor cast material and end up with even a bigger mess or injury. Very experienced in welding cast aluminum. Even high grade cast is difficult to weld. ;););););););)
 
Your missing the postive stuff. Tear the engine out stuff a used one in it. Mean while you can have the head done, the transmission
Stuff it in and sell the old head for 500.00 the crank for almost the same a few other odds and ends if you desire along with the other transmission say 300 or 1500.00 undercutt and new 4th with the wider circlips and chalk it up to because I made a mistake I have more horse power now !!!!
 
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Besides the fact that it is cwapy casting, trying to do it as is, the block will draw so much heat away from where you are trying to weld, makes it highly unlikely if not impossible. But I don't think it would be much of a problem to fabricate a new bracket to use some other bolt locations. Might not be pretty, but would probably be easier and cheaper than swapping the engine.o_O
 
Very sorry to see that. As @barbagris mentions a stud run to the bottom of the hole using generous amounts of red loctite is the right idea here. With a stud in it, the nut will clamp the broken off piece in place and the load will transfer to the greater area as originally. A bolt would do the same, but you'd not want to be removing the bolt often and with a stud, you'll never need to remove it once it's in place. Also, a bolt will not be able to be bottomed out like a stud, and so, will apply load further up towards the head vs a stud which will transfer the load further towards the bottom of the hole.

Were it my bike, I'd replace the case, but, in a pinch (like on a road trip or if I weren't willing to do the case replacement myself) I'd probably use JB weld, while it's still wet install the stud and clamp in place. The stud may end up permanently affixed, but is that an issue? Make sure you've the right length stud with a dry fit before using the JB. There's nearly no shear force involved here as long as you don't drag the stand while moving the bike. You could really just put the piece back, install the stud, install the stand and then the nut dry if you wanted without any goop because of the way it broke.

If you use JB, have it all reinstalled and clamped tight, allow to sit for 48 hours without using the stand not 24. At 24 the JB is like 90% cured but there's still more hardening to do for epoxy's for many weeks.
 
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