Crankcase breather filter

Wrecka said:
Where do the gasses vent to ?
Click to expand...
After seeing what gets caught I am going to vent mine to a little filter up forward by the radiator somewhere kind of out of view but not hidden so much that I can not keep a eye on it. But I am working on something for my Piper Cross Filter. If I had Triple filters like you and Fred have I would work on running the gases to all three cylinders so they get the same amount of gas whether it is combustible or not. That way every cylinder is affected the same whether good or not so good.
 
I haven't really been keeping track but would guess I've put around 5,000 miles on mine since I routed the breather into the center cylinder. I had the filters off last year to clean them and couldn't see any difference looking into the throttle bodies. No gunk or residue that I could see. Maybe I'm living in a fools paradise

P.S. Not to talk smack on your idea but if you did end up routing it into the intake I'd be more worried about inhaling some of that brillo pad
 
Go look at your cars and see if you can see the stuff. you won't but if you install one and go back and find it does collect muck oil blow by then you would think what I thought why pump the crap into the engine let it separate and then pipe the fumes back. As for the Stainless I used it after finding it is made from a single strand If I was worried about it adding a screen in place of the baffled retainer plates top and bottom (not shown yet because I am looking at two different concepts one for those who do not say have a Milling machine in their barn )

Since you think things out and lets say you do not mind carrying the mist and rap back into the throttle body. Since it has unburnt fuel atomized in the crank case from ring leak down and normal instance which are in all engine diesel or gas. worse on diesel mixing with the oil wash from the cylinders and the atomizing of particles from the oil slinging everywhere. It Does seem to be it also is combustible. Would not it be better for the engine if it was spread out evenly? They say the combustion gases can create detonation even in a NA motor. More so on high compression but that's enough to say if I want to send this back into a engine it would be better off spread out since it is not getting dumped into the whole intake track like it was before. Hmmm that's right what would that crap do to a intake ducting like the OEM one create a slight resin inside which you might not see but would slow air down. Oh **** OEM style did divide the gasses up.


Don't get me wrong Fred as it is you could catch some of the crap for a while and if you do not collect anything your out 15 bucks or so depending on whether you make one or how much you buy one for. some are quite cheap. One thing I did notice watching many You Tube video's is a lot of them have no baffles in them so they modified them with the same stainless Which is where I got the ideas from. I will also be building one for my Hummer whether it needs it or not. The stainless just helps for moisture separation as the air goes down the pipe it hits the ares DOTS on the pipe you see Half will be in the stainless and half above it. The holes slow the turbulence down and also allow moisture mixture to attach and eventually drip down in the open area at the bottom. then the air can return from the top after giving up some of the particles it was carrying. Remember this is not a massive rank case pressure on a NA motor compared to a Boosted engine so even if a piece of the stainless would break loose and then get thru the top baffled retainer plate I doubt it would travel a couple feet up a 3.8 inch ID hose to the end of it. I have seen some of the tanks have a 50 micron bronze filter in them to make sure not particles go out of the catch can. I got my eye on a nice one but wanted to test things first.
 
Hey Fred not trying to change your vent procedures I would just split it up. Remember the old days where the crank case vented to the inside of the air filter container right on top of the carbs and well earlier model FI systems also. They had a little filter white in color or at least light colored. Until you ran the motor for a while then the Scotchbrite Type looking filter would turn blackish. I think there is also a reason why they added a positive crank case vent valve so the crank case only vented when the pressure opened the valve verses sucking the gasses all the time. I am not sure if that should be employed here or not. Anyway I know you have seen them old style filters and how dirty they became. Its not really the throttle body bore I am talking about although all the intake track is important. I am more worried about down in there where you can not see say the backs of the intake valves and the port area surrounding them. Another reason why I would disperse yours to all three is if their is some unspent fuel octane in the gasses you adding to the A/F ratio in one cylinder only and I am not sure the bike ECU can detect/adapt that in one varying cylinder. (say with a O2 sensor if you have one) If you do not then well you must tune each cylinder individually which is pricey. So I say it would benefit you to add the can for safety and watch it, and I would run hose to all three TB's to balance it out.
 
The stock system filters whatever comes out of the sump through the air filter. Replacing the tube at the sump with a small filter is simple but the space is pretty cramped.
 
dougl said:
The stock system filters whatever comes out of the sump through the air filter. Replacing the tube at the sump with a small filter is simple but the space is pretty cramped.
Click to expand...
Yep and the crap catches in the filter separating the moisture particles before the gasses go up the intake. I filter under the air box is OK until it gets clogged say with a oily/fuel particles. The you will have a mess Do not ask me how I know Like I said it is less problems on the OEM low compression NA motors But that does not mean there is no pressure or the vent would not be there. They have always been there even in the days when the auto makers were not as concerned with EPA concerns
 

I do feel a little extra oomph out of that center cylinder, but then I'm sensitive to that sort of thing . I have mine set up like this, so it shouldn't really apply any vacuum to the crankcase unless the air filter starts to clog.

 
Rocket Scientist said:
I do feel a little extra oomph out of that center cylinder, but then I'm sensitive to that sort of thing . I have mine set up like this, so it shouldn't really apply any vacuum to the crankcase unless the air filter starts to clog.

Click to expand...
A little vacuum won't hurt; too much and you start to consume oil. Vent the crankcase to the exhaust and be done with it. Drill 3/8" hole in O2 sensor bung, solder in 3/8 brake tubing for a nipple, run a hose to back of motor, install brake vacuum booster check valve in 3/8 hose and other end into original 16mm tube. Exhaust gas velocity will keep crank case clear and no crap through motor. Check valve insures one way flow if back fire should pressurize exhaust.

(Hi all, been awhile since my last post).
 
Im all for new mods/ideas for our bikes. Funny thing is last week when i had the throttle bodies off and i looked down into the head to the intake valves seemed the one that the crankcase breather went to was the cleanest of the 3 , to be fair though it was also the one with the split throttle body to head adaptor making it run lean.
 
Hey Blaine good to see your coming out of Hibernation
I have given your idea some thought and I might just try to pipe mine from the catch an to say a modified O2 bung plug instead of a filter but for now I think I will use the old K&N filter that was on the bike and move it forward. My O2 Bung is visible so I will have to give it some thought Maybe I can adapt a 90 degree type compression fitting or barb to make it less obvious. (I know yours is hidden well) Dang it if I only had a lathe
 
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