Coil Over Plug mod (COP) for standard coil removal

Resistance of stock coil is 1.9 ohms. R1 sticks are 1.7 ohms.

Sound ok?

This is something to watch out for. The impedance/resistance of the stick coil should be very similar or it may overload the input circuit. There has been some BAD advice from a supposedly sound source, regarding coil mods around the place. One of my customers turned up here with some "trick" coils which were significantly WORSE than stock. Waste of money and also a long trip to the dyno. We have done this mod on TTS equipped bikes because it clears away the coils from the inlet pipe. Also did that mod on @mitzy 250hp bike, just because we could. And a few others. It gets rid of the stupid 1950's style coil primary terminals as well. I think I tried a 1050 coil and it was too short, but that may be my memory....
 
I would not go any less than 1.7. Have used later coils in the past. They look and fit very similar but have a slightly different part number. Not sure of the ohms without getting one and measuring it now.
 
Curious, I looked in the manual, it lists 0.56 kohms for the pick up coil and 1.4-1.8 ohms as the acceptable range for the primary resistance on page 11.70.

Not arguing nev, if you say stick with 1.7, then I’ll do so when I search, I’ve learned to trust your first hand experience.
 
Can someone please tell me the overall length of an r1 coil? I can get coils that fit a yfz450 and wr450 but they look a bit shorter. Also is it possible to get a photo of r1 coils fitted to a rocket?
 
Got some requests to tell how I did it on my 2011 R3.

First, let me say that I don't really think it matters what COP you use... they take a charge, then discharge it at the pulse.. nothing magic about it and our R3 uses normal plugs so again, nothing magic...

I found another member who did this and he said he used early generation R1 coils, so I did the same. Turns out that is 2002-2003, easily found on E-bay. You'll need two sets because the R1 only has one plug per cylinder and you'll need 6.

When you get them, unwind the wires and cut off the leads from the plugs at about 3-4".. that's all you need.. less, actually... then you have to splice them together so you have two plugs connected to one pair of wires. I used a black/red wire pair off a roll I have and would highly recommend you do something similar because polarity is important and difficult to track.

The plugs have two wires, one is red, and the other is some other color (may be black or may not). Tie the similar colors together, red with red, and connect to a butt-splice to the RED wire on your double wire (see photo).. connect the other color wires to the butt splice and to the black wire on your double wire. I goto Home Depot and get the heat-shrink butt-splices.. you'll need one size larger than the wires you're using because you're paring them up on one end.. then shrink!

You'll end up with two plugs connected to one pair of wires (one red, one black).

On the motorcycle, removed coils and stupid brackets... you're left with two female blade connectors (three pair)... they totally suck and need to be replaced with good female blade connectors... you could hard wire your new looms, but I didn't... So, I installed new female blades and shrink-wrapped them to the wiring harness....

Here's where things get tricky. The wire colors going to the coil on the R3 loom are not red-black.. however, one lead of the two going to each coil is a hot lead. Turn your ignition on and put a volt-meter on the leads. One of them will read 12 volts... that one charges the coil, the other is a pulse-trigger and tells the coil when to release the charge to the plug.... the hot lead, the 12 volt one, is connected to the RED wire on your new plugs... the black wire to the other.

Next, make sure you get the right coil leads connected to the right pair.

On the R1, the COP has you take off the plug tip, different from the stock cap... it's actually a better connection I think... however, the R1 coil does not fit snuggly into the hole in the valve cover.. it's a bit loose, so I need to figure out how to wrap something around it to snug it up.. so far, it's just fine, but if you're a perfectionist, you won't like it. As I said earlier, I don't think it really matters which ones you use, so there's likely a better fit one out there.. but I have what I have and now it's working for at least two of us (as non-scientific as this is....).

Does it make the bike run better? I have no way of knowing. I really doubt it. Though, the crappy female blade connectors that hooked to the coils were so bad, that they would come off at the slightest touch.. I tried crimping them, and only ended up breaking the little plastic elbow thingey.... more crumminess... so, I like my new blades, but that has nothing to do with switching to COPs, it's just a collateral benefit.

I'll post a pic of under the tank when I get a chance....

Did you ever get a photo of the coils under the tank??
 
Oh, I haven't... taking tank off is not my favorite thing since my handlebars and instruments are custom so I can't just lift tank.. I will get to it! On further note, I had the bike Dyno'd and it came out to 150hp and 150ft-lb of torque. I also did a 650 mile trip the other day (one day trip) with zero problems with the coil-over-plugs.
 
Just ordered a couple of sets with the wire loom. Look forward to a nice clean area under thank compared to the stock mess.

Thanks for posting!

I’m having weird lean misfire between 1900-2400 at 1-2% throttle but nowhere else, injectors just confirmed as good after being tested, compression is good so I hope this fixes it.
 
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