Clutch failure .... need some advice

[warp9.9]

Ok not being a expert I have always check free play on any rocket I walk up to in a dealership. Right after I wipe the drool off my chin. Rarely do I find one that has the proper free play set as per the manual. At least 80% of them do not have it set right.

Now that being said I took a little look at the ipone oil I would like to dig into it further but am having some issue with Anderson window company and the overall lack of quality in there products. So bad that 10 AM and I want a beer.

Anyway is it a detergent or nondetergent track racing oil. The reason I ask is the difference being track oils usually will not last long on the road and get dumped after the race verses a detergent oil that is designed to run for extended amounts of miles. I never seen steel as black as those . Usually burnt steels that I have seen have some blue to the also of course your might be extra burnt or the lighting in the picture is playing with my eyes. When you go back together with it try a different oil. Say like mobile 1 4rt 15w50 or some motul oil. Even ams oil makes a good 20w50 motor cycle oil. Hopefully @Neville Lush we come along with some input. (Which I would listen to him before listening to me)
Sorry but I have to get back on the ladders and work.

 

[blip]

Thanks for the advice!

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Also ... thanks for the device on the wavy washer everyone. I've got it on order so I can finish up the repair.

ah so you are running an aftermarket fiber & steel setup, it's not a stock Roadster clutch that broke.
if i was you i'd be finding the root cause of the failure before putting it all back together

 

[warp9.9]

ah so you are running an aftermarket fiber & steel setup, it's not a stock Roadster clutch that broke.
if i was you i'd be finding the root cause of the failure before putting it all back together

Now that Arto brought it up, which makes me think a wee bit more you better check and make sure the fiber furthest in at the bottom of the clutch clears the anti judder ring and seat or it will slip some and burn up. This is why triumph has a special fiber for the bottom of the clutch pack.

 

[warp9.9]

Darn BEER RUN

 

[blip]

ah so you are running an aftermarket fiber & steel setup, it's not a stock Roadster clutch that broke.
if i was you i'd be finding the root cause of the failure before putting it all back together

Interesting .... so the last fiber should be a different width? If it isn't should I remove teh anti-judder ring?

As for the root cause .... the root cause of the original failure I am pretty sure I know. The root cause for the lifter pin I am not sure .... Warp was thinking it was improper free play ..... that is what the dealer said also, I am thinking it's either that or it was damaged in the original failure and then let go.

 

[warp9.9]

Interesting .... so the last fiber should be a different width? If it isn't should I remove teh anti-judder ring?

As for the root cause .... the root cause of the original failure I am pretty sure I know. The root cause for the lifter pin I am not sure .... Warp was thinking it was improper free play ..... that is what the dealer said also, I am thinking it's either that or it was damaged in the original failure and then let go.

To clarify the last or bottom fiber has a large inside diameter to clear the outside diameter of the anti judder ring and seat. Without this the bottom fiber does not seat well on the inner pressure face of the inner clutch hub. Its spins instead of gripping it. More wear equals more slip. This is noted in the shop manual.

 

[JeRome]

Hey Everyone.

I've had the lifter pin on my clutch fail on me. Not sure of the root cause, could have been free play, could have been for the same reason that my steels warped (see my other thread), but it popped clean off which is odd, in any event I am now replacing my lifter pin. but here is my problem ....... I had the dealer open the bike up to diagnose but opted to do the work myself thus I am not the one that removed the failed lifter pin, and now I am either missing parts or the service manual has some extra ones (you know .... like ikea furniture). I'd love to hear from someone that has had their clutch open to see if I am missing something.

I have a 2014 rocket III roadster. In the manual it indicates that the filter pin has a thurst washer between the lifter piece and the needle bearing shown in the picture below:

However when I open my bike I don't have a thrust washer just the bearing connected right to the lifter piece. Everything seems to fit well and got together but I have a sneaking suspicion that I am missing the washer. Because I wasn't the one that pulled it apart I can't be sure that it wasn't lost in disassembly.

Any help you have is appreciated . This ris the last step before I close her up and try to squeeze the last bit of riding in this season.

Then I have one last question ............. While looking around I see some where on the outside of the pressure plate. I can't see any other wear on the inside of the crank case so am not sure if it is something to be worried about or not. What are your thoughts?

I have the same scratches....????

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

I have the same scratches....????

Everybody does too dude, I believe they are from the casting during manufacture

More discussion:
Installation of Neville Lush Racing "street" cams in 2014 Rocket III Touring