You would be right except it would seem Bob does not tune the low power because he is into racing. I suspect you could get more low end if you tune it and are willing to give up fuel mileage.
I think the carpenter kit cannot match the stock from idle up torque because of cam timing & profile + 2" headers, maps will not change that.
Not knocking them, they do exactly what they claim that is to turn the bike into a fire breathing beast, not a plough.
Although I quite like ploughs they're not so much fun as a real hot motor.
Ah I was reading the Carpenter Dyno chart incorrectly after all. I assumed the reading started at idle but it actually starts at 3500rpm! I wonder if I can get them to print me one that starts at 1100 for my bike. I'm curious to see the full curve.
I think the carpenter kit cannot match the stock from idle up torque because of cam timing & profile + 2" headers, maps will not change that.
Not knocking them, they do exactly what they claim that is to turn the bike into a fire breathing beast, not a plough.
Although I quite like ploughs they're not so much fun as a real hot motor.
will be interesting to see how all the parts work together. As i avoid straight roads my preference is for high torque as that helps me connect corners better so top end screaming aint my thing but i reckon having a wide cruising range down low and high screaming range up high could be lots of fun in your neck of the woods.
I hope it is everything you wish for. 1 thing Im confident of...no matter if its 230, 231, 241 or 245, the smile on your face is going to prove on thing and give you only one regret........you didn't do it soon enough!
When you get time to log back on as you won't want to get off it when you've got the extra ponies, let us know how happy you are.
Finally, don't worry about the dyne too much mate, your tuners need the dyno for tuning your bike the best they can, the results show them how good a job they have done, your arse is what will give you the best indication of bang for buck!