JLeather
.040 Over
The screens are there. What I left out was one of the metal intermediate "retainer" plates apparently. So one screen is only being held in with the deflector.
Mike Rocket
Rocket 3
I just edited my last reply. I have added that without the retainer it may not be a good seal.
JLeather
.040 Over
Yeah. Guess I'll take a shot at it tonight and hope the gasket can be reused.
JLeather
.040 Over
Oil screen retainer replaced, after a big mess on the floor. I don't understand why even when all 3 drain plugs stop dripping this thing dumps at least half a quart on the floor when I take the sump off. Reused the stock gasket, so far so good. Bike passed inspection yesterday needing only a new tag light (gotta leave something for the inspector to find or else they'll keep looking). My battery monitor is still giving me questionable signals however. It's only ever Amber when the bike is running, not Green, in spite of the voltage being within the good range from the Roadstercycle page. Also it went to flashing red once at a stop light, even though I checked the voltage and it's been stable. I have it wired into the 3-wire plug under the tank that I believe is for heated gloves or other accessories. I checked the plug several times and it showed direct battery voltage. Anyone been through something similar?
leatal
Turbocharged
I have never removed the sump pan but know the two plugs between the drain plugs will yield another cup of oil when removed. I always remove them during oil changes to drain out as much old oil as possible.
JLeather
.040 Over
Well unfortunately the saga continues. I've been putting miles on the bike, a couple hundred probably, and a few times that battery monitor showed red (no charge). I figured it wasn't working right since it showed amber (warning) when I measured 14.5v so I ignored it, but today I discovered that the bike quits charging at lower RPM's when hot. When I got home from work I found that hot idle charging is 13.1v, up to about 13.9 hot at 2,500 rpm. When the bike cools off the charging is better. I swapped a stock R/R on and no change. I also checked the stator and I do not have continuity to ground even when hot, and I have 0.4-0.5 ohms between the legs whether hot or cold. WTF?
TURBO200R4
stand up straight and grab the world by the a$$
Got to admit it is a little low but may be enough
some of my ideas seem like good one until i try them lol
idea start bike then remove the starter relay unless someone has altered the wiring this should remove headlight voltage so u can read voltage w/o headlights
JLeather
.040 Over
Unfortunately I tried that. Pulled the 20A headlight fuse while it was running, didn't help (actually I pulled it before starting the bike first, and now I know it also runs the starter lol). I was a little suspect of the headlights because the PO put in some cheapo LED things with like 4 bulbs per. There's more than a little non-stock wiring on the bike (phone charger, heated vest plug, headlights, steibel horn, etc) but the R/R unit has a new direct-to-battery cable from RoadsterCycle so there's no excuse for erratic voltage. Jack from RoadsterCycle suspects the stator, and I tend to agree since it's apparently a heat-soak issue although I can't explain how since even hot it doesn't seem to be grounded out and doesn't seem to have incorrect resistance between any of the legs? TBF the bike has never failed to start, it's making probably 14v+ while rolling down the road and I doubt I'd have even suspected anything if I hadn't installed the battery monitor, but something isn't right. If the stator is really to blame it could quit altogether again. I have plans for a good long 4 or 5 day ride on this bike this summer and I don't wanna come home on a trailer.
JLeather
.040 Over
The manual just says 13.5v-15v at 2,000 rpm's. Technically I pass that test without issue, so maybe I should pull the battery monitor off and stop worrying about it?
TURBO200R4
stand up straight and grab the world by the a$$
I would try that
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