Approximate price to replace stator

List price (US) on an OEM stator is $502.
An OEM R/R is $366.
I presume the NH company you refer is RicksMotorSportElectics, who indeed have good quality products - their stator is $225 at this time of writing.
(but for R/R I would much rather spend the money on the Suzuki OEM Series Regulator from the DL1000A ~ $180 list, can be found for ~$140)
 
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@DEcosse Thank you for clearing up my error regarding the MOSFET shunt vs series RRs. I did upgrade my Daytona 955i to series years ago per your advice and thread on the other forums, and it's never been a problem since.

Agree to diagree about the stator :p I think replacing them anytime the motor is open is a good idea, because, hopefully the motor is very rarely opened up!

By the same logic, if I had the motor opened up on a stock bike, I'd also have the trans undercut and reworked at the same time. Again, parts may have been fine, but while it's open, do everything you can to maximize the value of the labor cost of opening the motor. Just my .02.
 
List price (US) on an OEM stator is $502.
An OEM R/R is $366.
I presume the NH company you refer is RicksMotorSportElectics, who indeed have good quality products - their stator is $225 at this time of writing.
(but for R/R I would much rather spend the money on the Suzuki OEM Series Regulator from the DL1000A ~ $180 list, can be found for ~$140)
Yes, Ricks Motorsports!!! I had initial confidence based solely on that I was born and raised in old New Hampshire!!
 
I would expect that stator is absolutely fine.

There's really no good outcome here unfortunately - the tech may indeed have been right, but either way, the guy is still out the cost of repair.
I'm not at all insistent it was probably not failed - may well be - would just have liked to see confirmation before engaging in such an extensive/expensive outcome.
Maybea little more 'feel good' (or at least better) for your neighbour if indeed it is proved to be bad.
But there would certainly be no satisfaction on my part in finding it was OK.

Hi there

Yes I totally agree and if it had been my machine I would’ve wanted far more information before proceeding with such an expensive labour based repair. But hey we’re all different and my neighbour was at a loose end because he broke down “out in the sticks” as we say colloquially here in Australia. The mechanic doing the work specialises in dyno tuning amongst other work. Doesn’t really make any difference now as you said. And I hope for his sake the stator is bad. Sincere thanks for all the input. Cheers
 
Hi there

Yes I totally agree, and if it had been my machine I would’ve wanted far more information before proceeding with such an expensive labour based repair. But hey we’re all different and my neighbour was at a loose end because he broke down “out in the sticks” as we say colloquially here in Australia. The mechanic doing the work specialises in dyno tuning amongst other work. Doesn’t really make any difference now as you said. And I hope for his sake the stator is bad. Sincere thanks for all the input. Cheers

While he has the engine out, and since it's an '05 silver motor, he should look closely at changing the torsional damper bearings. Most had the front one installed backwards and the rear relies on oil migration and well that just does not get enough oil. Triumph changed the rear to a sealed, grease packed unit. Mind you, he doesn't have to do it. But if it fails in the future he will wish he'd done it while the engine was out the first time.
 
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Most respectfully would have to disagree with that - there is as much (or little) likelihood of a replacement stator failing as the original (if it has not yet failed)
They are not a 'wear' item - not subject to a longevity aspect, but more due to either manufacturing deviation or an external influence.
So would not recommend, in this case, to replace if it is still serviceable



That I agree with - it generally appears to be quite robust - I have seen reported failures, but have no valid confirmation on whether these were legitimate or not
But I would certainly say that failures at at worst, rare!



Well actually it IS still a Shunt type - just that it uses MOSFET devices for the shunts, rather than the older style SCR types
That makes the R/R itself somewhat more reliable but does nothing to change the reliability of the stator.
I HAVE actually seen several of the OEM R/R fails, so they are not bulletproof (although would agree generally quite a good component)

The ultimate preventive maintenance is to install a SERIES type regulator - have written about this elsewhere - the Suzuki DL1000A R/R (Shindengen type SH847AA) is the best safeguard to maintain lower current through the stator and hence better reliability

I'm glad to see the info on the regulator pop up again @DEcosse as I have considered swapping mine out on my 2015 touring. My understanding before was.. the shunt type was like full on all the time while the Shindengan was more like it only provided what was needed putting less stress on the stator. I'm going to buy one and swap it if that is the case. I'll either entend the wiring or remove the evaporative canister as some have done to put it in place. Last time I looked they were not that pricey making it a good investment. Thanks

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Hi there

I’m posting this question on behalf of my next door neighbour who owns an 05 Rocket III. Last time he went on a ride it developed charging problems (battery is only 2 months old) and it has been diagnosed as a faulty stator. I was wondering if anyone with experience could give me a ballpark figure on the cost of replacing the stator including the part itself. I’ve done some Googling for him and have discovered that the motor needs to be lifted in order for it to be replaced but could find no info on how long it takes and the cost of the stator. We’re in Victoria if that helps.

Cheers
I had my stator replaced under warranty on a 2016 R3R in 2017 , just 15 mths old , took them 14 hours.. I seen the burnt out one, was stuffed , glad it was under warranty :)
 
Hi there

I’m posting this question on behalf of my next door neighbour who owns an 05 Rocket III. Last time he went on a ride it developed charging problems (battery is only 2 months old) and it has been diagnosed as a faulty stator. I was wondering if anyone with experience could give me a ballpark figure on the cost of replacing the stator including the part itself. I’ve done some Googling for him and have discovered that the motor needs to be lifted in order for it to be replaced but could find no info on how long it takes and the cost of the stator. We’re in Victoria if that helps.

Cheers
My stator went south on my 05 also I had the work done at National Powersports in Merrimack NH, while motor was out I had them replace all the hoses, did the upgrade kit, new clutch and the driveshaft had wear along with the u joints, the TPS were bad and I had them replaced also. Ok it cost a few k but when I got the bike back it shifted so much better and it ran so much smoother. I will say their mechanic Eldon Richards is top flight, he's worked on many Rockets and is totally honest. I told him when he pulls it apart that anything that looks like it should be done (like he would do to his own) to just go ahead that's the trust I have in him. Now I have no problems and piece of mind, I'll keep my bike till I'm too old to ride as it runs that good.
 
First thing is to confirm it REALLY is the stator!
HUGE job on an R3 to replace - needs the engine to come out - no kidding! - So better to be sure.
Most shops end up 'guessing' at the stator being the problem without really knowing how to confirm - bad enough on most bikes, but major project and cost if misdiagnosed on an R3!

VERY simple test - you don't even need bike running, or to measure voltage to check stator.
disconnect the R/R;
Set Multimeter to Resistance (Ohms) scale;
(Note the reading when the probes are not connected to anything; then touch probes together and it should go close to '0' - first reading is 'open' circuit and second reading is 'short' circuit)
Now set one probe on ANY one of three terminals in connector going back to the stator;
connect other probe to engine ground.
(note carefully that we are not measuring BETWEEN PINS - we are measuring from ANY ONE pin to Engine ground - it does not matter which pin you select as they will all read the same, whether that be all good, or all bad)

If it reads 'zero' then that is short circuit and indeed stator is toast;
If it reads 'open' (typically 1999 or similar depending on meter - same as if probes not connected to anything) then the stator is 99.99% to be good (in which case likely the R/R that is the issue)[/
First thing is to confirm it REALLY is the stator!
HUGE job on an R3 to replace - needs the engine to come out - no kidding! - So better to be sure.
Most shops end up 'guessing' at the stator being the problem without really knowing how to confirm - bad enough on most bikes, but major project and cost if misdiagnosed on an R3!

VERY simple test - you don't even need bike running, or to measure voltage to check stator.
disconnect the R/R;
Set Multimeter to Resistance (Ohms) scale;
(Note the reading when the probes are not connected to anything; then touch probes together and it should go close to '0' - first reading is 'open' circuit and second reading is 'short' circuit)
Now set one probe on ANY one of three terminals in connector going back to the stator;
connect other probe to engine ground.
(note carefully that we are not measuring BETWEEN PINS - we are measuring from ANY ONE pin to Engine ground - it does not matter which pin you select as they will all read the same, whether that be all good, or all bad)

If it reads 'zero' then that is short circuit and indeed stator is toast;
If it reads 'open' (typically 1999 or similar depending on meter - same as if probes not connected to anything) then the stator is 99.99% to be good (in which case likely the R/R that is the issue)
Too bad. It actually can be done with the engine in the bike and rear frame lifted. But since your buddy wouldn't believe people about testing it first he probably would have went the long way anyway.


I wish him luck
do you happen to have a post on raising the rear frame?
 
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