Another none starter


hello again....I'm not 100% but the push button start does seem to be a factor...i I just went to start the bike...It turned as you would expect...didn't fire first time but it's cold...second attempt...just a 'click...third attempt. ..click then turned slowly...4th attempt...normal turning...then back to click as if the battery was dead....so given its possible it's the electric start...would anyone have a fix for this?? Baring in mind I don't know what I'm looking for lol
 
what is happening is the battery is draining and when it gets low enough it will disengage the starter relay. bat volts will come back up and then you can hit button and then the same thing will happen again. a volt meter will prove this. a bad connection will do the same thing.
 

So you think it may be the battery??

I've got an odyssey PC625 (which I need to charge) as it's flat having no luck with batteries lol
 
I hate to put it like this but if everything else is ok then the battery needs charging or replaced.
this being Monday i have forgotten who said what.
Warp posted some nice pictures (THANKS WARP) of the starter solenoid and pictures are worth a thousand words.
you can see the wear on the contacts and there will also be wear on the brushes this causes starter to draw more current and at some point the battery cannot keep up. so the engine turns over slow.
 
Reactions: baz
I HAVE A THEORY.
I think when the starter turns over the computer has to see a certain rpm to activate the injectors. if the computer does not see enough rpm (slow cranking engine) it will NOT activate the injectors and the engine will not start.
as i have said mine will crank slow and not start but if i give it a shot of starting fluid it comes alive.
i have not checked my injectors to see if they are firing that is why i call it a theory. there could be a lot of other factors and i am sure others will tell you about them. i have ordered the 17610 starter for mine and i think that that will take care of my problem.
 
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think it's worth maybe checking the starter motor connection etc...I'm guessing it's located in an easy to get to position? Not looked as yet
 

It sounds like a bad or loose connection to me. That as well as the strong possibility of a firm maybe.... it could be the solenoid. Why you ask? I never heard of a battery returning to normal like it did on the 4th try. To me that is inconsistent with a weak battery and more indicative of a poor connection. The solenoid represents a connection as well. I can't explain why it doesn't fire under a normal starter spin. That says to me the volts/amps are there and for some other reason it won't fire.
 
Prime the injectors (let gauges sweep and then shut ignition off) once or twice before attempting to start the recalcitrant beast! Have you tried jump-starting off a vehicle with a good, strong battery yet? If not, charge your battery first (again), follow the priming procedure above and give it a go...
 
What TriumPhil says plus some more thoughts....The ignition switch energizes several points in the fuse box. I can't tell you which ones in particular at the moment because I don't have my diagram in front of me. If they are not energized it could be the switch. Have you actually tested all of the fuses in the fuse box with a continuity tester? I assume you have not overlooked the obvious. The bike reads neutral, the clutch is in, the kickstand is up, and the kill switch is in the correct position. Can you hear the fuel pump energize when the key is turn on? Do the headlights go off when you engage the starter. If all appears normal with these checks, then we are back to checking connectons.
 
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yup all would appear normal with the above mate...haven't tried a jump start as yet though