A new theory

Doc Roc

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20190310_213701.jpg

Ill post some pictures on mearsuing the drop in the tensioner with caliper and the spacer side when I get on my computer.
Thank you.
 

warp9.9

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Thank you.
Ok here is the little nylon go-nogo gauge Triumph send with their spacer, you'll find both are grossly over priced. So instead of wasting money on them i make the spacer which can be easily made out of a 10mm or 3/8 inch bolt shank. You cut a piece of the shank to .355 inches long or 9mm. Now with the center nut, copper sealing washer, and spring out of the tensioner you just stick the nylon plug in as per the manual if the shoulder bottom to the tensioner you add the spring. If not you put the center nut and copper washer back on and torque. If it does then you add the spacer stick the spring back in and then sealing washer and center nut to torque spec.

So why make the spacer unless you have a lathe. the distance the gauge is measuring is 16 mm so I measure with a caliper. like below.
first the face of the tensioner and the shoulder of the plunger you will be measuring down to shown by the two yeller lines

plunger drop brovo.jpg

next measuring the drop and yes this is done with the tensioner in the engine I am just using a extra one for the pictures.


tensioner  measurement.jpg

if the drop is 16 mm or more it requires the spacer. and if memory serves me right The total travel is 23 mm
hope this helps
 
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warp9.9

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Warp, you da man! That's the first I've heard about the dampening bolt thing. How does that work ????
Imo the hollow area where the chain runs thru can get a harmonic vibration so triumph designed or some engineer designed for triumph the dampening bolt has rubber on the outer head side and torqued properly the rubber absorbs the rattle/singing from the chain and gears, oh and guides. Remember this is just my thoughts I didn't graduate highschool :(
 

Gregger

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Imo the hollow area where the chain runs thru can get a harmonic vibration so triumph designed or some engineer designed for triumph the dampening bolt has rubber on the outer head side and torqued properly the rubber absorbs the rattle/singing from the chain and gears, oh and guides. Remember this is just my thoughts I didn't graduate highschool :(

I did not know that.... Thanks Warp
 

Doc Roc

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Ok here is the little nylon go-nogo gauge Triumph send with their spacer, you'll find both are grossly over priced. So instead of wasting money on them i make the spacer which can be easily made out of a 10mm or 3/8 inch bolt shank. You cut a piece of the shank to .355 inches long or 9mm. Now with the center nut, copper sealing washer, and spring out of the tensioner you just stick the nylon plug in as per the manual if the shoulder bottom to the tensioner you add the spring. If not you put the center nut and copper washer back on and torque. If it does then you add the spacer stick the spring back in and then sealing washer and center nut to torque spec.

So why make the spacer unless you have a lathe. the distance the gauge is measuring is 16 mm so I measure with a caliper. like below.
first the face of the tensioner and the shoulder of the plunger you will be measuring down to shown by the two yeller lines

plunger drop brovo.jpg

next measuring the drop and yes this is done with the tensioner in the engine I am just using a extra one for the pictures.


tensioner  measurement.jpg

if the drop is 16 mm or more it requires the spacer. and if memory serves me right The total travel is 23 mm
hope this helps
Thanks for that warp, mine was at 24mm made a spacer noise all gone now YAHOO. Will need a new tensioner etc very soon. My manual has no reference to this procedure it must be to early.
Thaks to everyone else for their thoughts and comments. And I am glad that I also found the 2 ticking time bombs in my search ie damper bearing around the wrong way and the drive shaft splines half worn. Thanks again.
 

warp9.9

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Thanks for that warp, mine was at 24mm made a spacer noise all gone now YAHOO. Will need a new tensioner etc very soon. My manual has no reference to this procedure it must be to early.
Thaks to everyone else for their thoughts and comments. And I am glad that I also found the 2 ticking time bombs in my search ie damper bearing around the wrong way and the drive shaft splines half worn. Thanks again.
Dude if your at 24 mm you chain could be whats rattling as no matter how much pressure. Your tensioner if fully extended
Time for guides (not sure if yours are the updated ones but bet not) m 9k st likely chain. (I would) and look at cam gears for any nasty wear. (Probably ok if the chain just started whipping and sinnging) and cam cover gasket. You will be able to inspect the clutch amd change if needed like the fibers. While yor doing it. Oh and considering what you have done this is a walk in the park check cam/bucket dhims and think Neville Lush cams oops sorry thats the nutter in me :)
 

Doc Roc

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Dude if your at 24 mm you chain could be whats rattling as no matter how much pressure. Your tensioner if fully extended
Time for guides (not sure if yours are the updated ones but bet not) m 9k st likely chain. (I would) and look at cam gears for any nasty wear. (Probably ok if the chain just started whipping and sinnging) and cam cover gasket. You will be able to inspect the clutch amd change if needed like the fibers. While yor doing it. Oh and considering what you have done this is a walk in the park check cam/bucket dhims and think Neville Lush cams oops sorry thats the nutter in me :)
Can anyone show me the page where it mentions the wear limit. I have a 2500km ride planed for August do you think it will be ok as the noise has gone now that I fitted the spacer.I have a 2 week holiday to New Zealand in December and as I have no shims I think I will put it in the shop and get the valves done and the chain and guides etc at the same time. I have never had them checked [my bad].
 

warp9.9

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Can anyone show me the page where it mentions the wear limit. I have a 2500km ride planed for August do you think it will be ok as the noise has gone now that I fitted the spacer.I have a 2 week holiday to New Zealand in December and as I have no shims I think I will put it in the shop and get the valves done and the chain and guides etc at the same time. I have never had them checked [my bad].
Dide I'm not saying there is a wers limit in thr book just the 16 mm drop to adf the soacer what i am saying and you csn take it to the bank that your at full tensiomer travel I only have say 6 or 7 of them laying around as I have used a modified version. Don't stop yourself from asking soome one like Nev, @Neville Lush I'm sure he can verify your at full extension of your tendioner . I'm sure he has got a few laying around his manual one he dedign is like oh lets say the neatest thing since sliced bread. Just contact him I think he is in your side of the world. And ask about hs cams while your add it. Triumph has used a few different guide until mid 2008 where all the update kits had the newer style looks kind of like the older pressure casted aluminum ones . I'm not sure but I would bet the arc changed some over the era of design changes looking for optimal usage of the chain allowing for some adjustment. Again I'm thinking out loud and never finished high school :D
 

warp9.9

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@Doc Roc I'm in illinois right now let me go dig around I'm bound to find a few of them tensioners laying around if not I got a engine in tbe barn with a broken crank (boost can suck) I'll take the tensioner out to verify if needed. But if we were betting I'm feeling good about my measure ments to within a couple mm.
 
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