A new theory

[warp9.9]

Ok i took the measurements this time just so you can calculate the travel it has
The tesioner fully retracted

We measure the protrusion amount

In inches sorry metric shi oops stuff not here
Fully ectended measurement

1.062" - .1693=about 22.67458 millimeters dude your out of travel do not run bike unless you a gambler do not believe me just check with Nev he knows.

 

[warp9.9]

Not that anyone has rocket parts laying around in your basement. Dang there's one down at the barn also thought maybe I might need parts or build another one.

 

[Doc Roc]

Ok i took the measurements this time just so you can calculate the travel it has
The tesioner fully retracted

We measure the protrusion amount

In inches sorry metric shi oops stuff not here
Fully ectended measurement

1.062" - .1693=about 22.67458 millimeters dude your out of travel do not run bike unless you a gambler do not believe me just check with Nev he knows.

Warp could you please measure the drop internally fully extended? What I should have said is can you set the internal drop at 24mm and see how much travel is left.

 

[warp9.9]

Warp could you please measure the drop internally fully extended? What I should have said is can you set the internal drop at 24mm and see how much travel is left.

fully extended internal is 27mm but remember the only 24mm of travel in looking at this one if it did not move any when you added the spacer then you have to teeth left until it bottoms out. if it moved any which you can pull it back out my bet its bottomed out now and really needs more teeth and travel.. if your just doing the chains and guides now cam shimming 8 hours but I would be checking the cams while your in there at the least since they will be exposed. another option is to open her enough to add a manual tensioner like nev's but were still talking opening her up cam cover and the inspection plug. but I still advocate full inspection of guides and such.

 

[Doc Roc]

fully extended internal is 27mm but remember the only 24mm of travel in looking at this one if it did not move any when you added the spacer then you have to teeth left until it bottoms out. if it moved any which you can pull it back out my bet its bottomed out now and really needs more teeth and travel.. if your just doing the chains and guides now cam shimming 8 hours but I would be checking the cams while your in there at the least since they will be exposed. another option is to open her enough to add a manual tensioner like nev's but were still talking opening her up cam cover and the inspection plug. but I still advocate full inspection of guides and such.

Mine is still at 24mm after fitting the spacer so I have 3mm left before it dies or starts rattling again

 

[warp9.9]

Mine is still at 24mm after fitting the spacer so I have 3mm left before it dies or starts rattling again

Now that you added tension by adding the spacer, and ran the motor. I got two beers that says if you measure it now your bottomed out. The teeth are like 1 mm or so pitch so 2 or maybe 3 teeth were left. Run her if you want if it jumps ti.e then you can change the cams when you replacing the broken bits. The 07 I have did that on the feller I bought it off of. Even sold him the new head cams, liners and crank shaft. Sucks when a couple of the valves that whacked the pistons break off while s.h.i.t. is still rotating. It was nice to see the parts come back full circle. Anyway luck to ya bud !

 

[cootertwo]

Mr Warp, I seem to remember, long ago, you mentioned being able to change the chain guides with only the front cover removed? I'm fixin to get into my 05, and have the upgrade parts, but too old and feeble to be splittin cases.

 

[Doc Roc]

I have decided to do the job myself. Fit new guides etc what ever it needs and a set of Nev's cams. I figure if I measure the shims while the cams are out and make a removal tool I will not have to take the cams out again. I have done up an Excel spreadsheet to track all the numbers so if I mix and match I should not need to buy many shims to do the job. I am still looking at get a shim kit though. Also need to make a cam holding tool.

 

[warp9.9]

I have decided to do the job myself. Fit new guides etc what ever it needs and a set of Nev's cams. I figure if I measure the shims while the cams are out and make a removal tool I will not have to take the cams out again. I have done up an Excel spreadsheet to track all the numbers so if I mix and match I should not need to buy many shims to do the job. I am still looking at get a shim kit though. Also need to make a cam holding tool.

Dude you won't need the tool. It will be a waste for you
I'm not kicking it if you just changing a shimm or two. But since your changing guides, chain, amd cams you'll be able to work on the shims by lifting the cams
Its only the ladder bolts to lift them up chang all the shims you need to.
Once you got that then you install the chain and run. Check with Nev I think you'll find I'm right and if I'm not do what Nev says. And if I'm right do what Nev says anyway !!!!!!

 

[warp9.9]

Mr Warp, I seem to remember, long ago, you mentioned being able to change the chain guides with only the front cover removed? I'm fixin to get into my 05, and have the upgrade parts, but too old and feeble to be splittin cases.

Ya still need the cam cover off. But ya the guides can go in from underside without pulling things like the cams or engine what I want to try sometime is changing from the auto tensioner like Doc has to Nevs manual tensioner (one nice piece of design and workmanship) without removing the front cover, radiator and everyhing up front. Just the cam cover.