Blinker Cancel / Running Lights / Flashing Brake

* I would dispute their use of the word 'dimly' - they are going to be on at normal intensity.

There is nothing you can do at the instrument end to isolate these signals, the ONLY way there is to disconnect them.

Thank you for explaining that - even with my limited understanding I didn't see what difference an LED would make in that situation.

That sounds like what I'll do then- Snip the GW and GR wires leading to the instrument cluster and insulate. I'll just use Posilocks to reconnect if I ever want to go back to stock.
 
Just be sure you get the correct green/red wire - there are others same colour NON-turn related - at the connector the two turn wires, green/white & green/red those will be right next to each other - if looking further down the harness, further away from the connector itself, you'll need to be careful to get the right one.

@RockOn; @barbagris - don't think the STS installation looks any more daunting than the Kisan - https://safer-turn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/STS_install_manual_ENv3.pdf
It does involve actually CUTTING the OEM wires (to the switch) vs tapping on the Kisan - both involve modifying the switch to stop it latching so one is as bad as the other in that regard
 
It does involve actually CUTTING the OEM wires (to the switch) vs tapping on the Kisan - both involve modifying the switch to stop it latching so one is as bad as the other in that regard
Well - you know how I dislike tapping into wires - Imagine how I feel about cutting. Of course I might not be doing it to an R3 :whitstling:

Stuffing little bits of rubber into the switch does not bother me - as long as there is daylight.
 
Just be sure you get the correct green/red wire - there are others same colour NON-turn related - at the connector the two turn wires, green/white & green/red those will be right next to each other - if looking further down the harness, further away from the connector itself, you'll need to be careful to get the right one.

@RockOn; @barbagris - don't think the STS installation looks any more daunting than the Kisan - https://safer-turn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/STS_install_manual_ENv3.pdf
It does involve actually CUTTING the OEM wires (to the switch) vs tapping on the Kisan - both involve modifying the switch to stop it latching so one is as bad as the other in that regard

Sure, easy for you to say, ;). Actually, using your link, I took another look and now realize all that cutting and splicing involving the 5 wires is not taking place inside the switch housing......duh. Now I see they are talking about going inside the wire harness that goes into the switch housing. That actually looks doable.....well, for someone that can figure out which wires to cut, to splice, etc. without destroying the electrical system.
 
Get a set of these - Posi-Lock - The Connector of Choice for OEM & Military Use
You still need to cut the wires, but can join in the STS wires back to OEM without having to crimp
The red ones should be adequate for that gauge of wire
For the Power and Ground you will need Posi-Taps.

They actually have waterproof ones now too - Posi-Tite- Watertite Connector
Haven't used those but they sure look 'the business'
20-18 will be adequate for those wires.
(actually they don't list in the menu, but if you look in the online shop, there are both Posi-Seal and Posi-Tite products - you can see the associated descriptions on the web-page, the *seal is essentially weatherproof and the *tite is for marine applications - the *seal type should be more than adequate, already better than the unsealed std ones
(there is no sealed application for the Posi-Tap however)

Use the Posi-Lock shop - Order Online- Discounts - they're cheaper than most other sources.
 
Here's some more info if connecting an STS on a classic:

At the LEFT bar-switch connector, the common, left & right turn wires are orange, green and grey respectively on the switch side of the connector; you can also pick up the ground here - you can select either Black/Red OR Black/Yellow - but NOT the black on this side of connector.
If connecting on MAIN harness side of connector, then those colours would be Light Green/Brown, Green/Red and Green/White and this time Ground WOULD be either of the two black wires.

For the +12V switched, you could pick off from the Blue/Yellow (switch side) or Blue (Main Harness side) but these wires will be a bit heavier gauge so probably require a larger tap; the alternative would be to go to the RIGHT side switch - connect to the Yellow/Red wire on the switch side (alternatively you could select 'one' of the Black Wires but it MUST ONLY be the one that is ultimately connected opposite the Black/Blue wire on the main harness side of the Right Switch Connector (or you can tap that same Black/Blue or the Green wires on the Main Harness side)

For Roadster it should be essentially same (at least for the main harness colours - the OEM schematic for the Roadster does not show the colours of the sub-harnesses beyond the Switch Connectors)

Like the Kisan, neither will the STS product be compatible with Touring (again though, Touring has its own self-cancel mechanism)
 
Decided to go with the SignalMinder. Really love the "Special Features"....running/marker lights, escort, emergency, brake flash and turn timers. Many thanks to Journeyman and DEcosse for helping me with the install with their experience/information!!! :):thumbsup::D

PS: My turn indicator in the RPM gauge operates as it should and does not always stay on, only flashes when turns are flashing......contrary to experience of others with this install. Wonder why.....?

20190926_134613.jpg
 
My turn indicator in the RPM gauge operates as it should and does not always stay on, only flashes when turns are flashing......contrary to experience of others with this install. Wonder why.....?
Do you have the Running Light Function enabled?
That would only happen when that is utilized
 
Back
Top