What happens when you over tighten the oil drain plugs?

just a tip, I use Selley's 401 hi temp silicon, it is a sealant and adhesive silicon. I put only a smear on the sump plug washer surface and washers (after both have been degreased) but as I said only a smear you do not want any on the threads and dont even think about putting any on the O-ring, then tighten them up till they seat plus a little nip up, not enough to squash the crush washers much but tight enough so they will not readily come undone take it for run to bring up to temp then check the next day, have not had a leak yet and it makes the crush washers last a lot longer
you could also use another brand of gasket silicon but I use Selley's 401 as it is readily available and can also be used as an exhaust joint sealant, also some bike shops use it as it is also cost effective
 
Well I did my own oil change for the first time couple weeks ago. Before I took on the task at hand I tried ordering new seal rings that go on the oil plugs. I couldn't find them looking on Bike Bandit OEM part list. I saw something that looked like them but my Roadster is made different than what was on Bike Bandit. So I didn't get them. Did the oil change and after a couple days I noticed a drip of oil on my garage floor. Thought it could have been residue from the oil change but I cleaned it very good. So.... I tightened the plug a tad more and no more oil leak. I have a torque wrench but I don't have the proper tool to go on it to fit the plug. I will however take care of that soon. I will now go and see if I took cracked mine. lol

Oh and if anyone knows the proper part number for those seal rings please post them. The manual says to replace those rings with new ones upon changing the oil.

3/8" drive 8mm sockets (as well as others) are readily available at any good auto parts store as well as the big chain stores like Menards, Lowes, Home Depot. I have 2 click style better quality torque wrenches I bought at Sears. One allows for the lower settings in inch pounds and Newtons (NM) and the other handles the higher Ft Lb settings and larger Newtons (NM) required for the axle bolts and the like. You need both if you are going to work on a bike and torque properly. I like to think I'm pretty good at feel, but I always torque if I know the settings...which I do, thanks to the posted manual.
 
The o ring is T3600104. You only need one for the main plug.

This is a good site for looking at fiches and getting part numbers.

Triumph Motorcycle Parts

Most Triumph dealers carry the parts and I always replace the washers and o-rings when I do the oil change. I see no reason to be dinking around with a oil leak because of a few cheap parts. If I have parts to order, I agree....the triumphestore is a great place to shop and find those part numbers. I use those numbers to check and make sure my dealer is giving me the correct part as well if I go to the dealer. I think I'll pickup a couple spare drain plugs after reading this post.
 
3/8" drive 8mm sockets (as well as others) are readily available at any good auto parts store as well as the big chain stores like Menards, Lowes, Home Depot. I have 2 click style better quality torque wrenches I bought at Sears. One allows for the lower settings in inch pounds and Newtons (NM) and the other handles the higher Ft Lb settings and larger Newtons (NM) required for the axle bolts and the like. You need both if you are going to work on a bike and torque properly. I like to think I'm pretty good at feel, but I always torque if I know the settings...which I do, thanks to the posted manual.

Settings? My air wrench has no settings:eek:
 
Same here, ten oil changes on my 05. No torque, same gaskets, no leaks. Park bike in my basement for the winter, I have wall to wall carpet, clean and dry.
+1 same here, just did my 10k mile oil change, kept the same plugs and washers, tightened "tight but not too tight" the way i was taught growing up. No leaks!
 
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